XT BR-M785 brake - Hose shortening
Quiet corner
Posts: 83
Hi guys
Can you tell me what i will need to do this, i have read a few forums on this and people recommend hose clamp and bleed block, If needed where can i get these from?
Al
Can you tell me what i will need to do this, i have read a few forums on this and people recommend hose clamp and bleed block, If needed where can i get these from?
Al
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Comments
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They should have come with the brakes if they were new. Otherwise your LBS probably has a few lying around that they don't need.0
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you normally get all that with the shimano bleed kit, it also includes the instructions on how to do it as well.
the instructions can be downloaded from Shimanos webby."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Cheers
Just brought these new an no block came with?, also which bleed kit are refering to Nick, can't seem to find one anywhere?
Al0 -
The one stated in the tech docs for the brakes?Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 817097.pdf
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 817099.pdf
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 780951.pdf
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 746864.pdf
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 750008.PDF"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Thanks mate, anyone know where i can get the bleed blocks from?0
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Any shimano retailer, come with brakes, come with official bleed kit......usually I don't bother, as long as the pistons stay fully back you're good.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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This is the instructions I used along with the bleed kit from epic bleed solutions which is brilliant. Also very good value.
One thing that happened with me however was that the front brake worked perfectly, really sensitive and loads of stopping power. The back however on stage 12/13 the rear brake was perfect until I removed the syringe from the lever bleed port. The lever then had double the amount of movement the front did, 20-30mm or so. The thing that puzzled me was when I did step 12 it was perfect. My LBS mechanic told me the following steps;
Remove the rear wheel.
Squeeze the brake leaver ONCE, FULLY.
Refit the wheel.
If the pads need shift ever so slightly then do, but the tiniest amount.
Fixed!!
The way it was explained to me was that it is similar to your cassette getting stuck between 'clicks' or the rachet and not completing a cycle, if that makes sense.
Good luck, its actually very easy, set of good mole grips essential to hold the yellow blocks while you refit the insert thingy in the end of the cut cable.0