XT BR-M785 brake - Hose shortening

Quiet corner
Quiet corner Posts: 83
edited February 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi guys

Can you tell me what i will need to do this, i have read a few forums on this and people recommend hose clamp and bleed block, If needed where can i get these from?

Al

Comments

  • peter413
    peter413 Posts: 5,120
    They should have come with the brakes if they were new. Otherwise your LBS probably has a few lying around that they don't need.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    you normally get all that with the shimano bleed kit, it also includes the instructions on how to do it as well.

    the instructions can be downloaded from Shimanos webby.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Cheers

    Just brought these new an no block came with?, also which bleed kit are refering to Nick, can't seem to find one anywhere?

    Al
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The one stated in the tech docs for the brakes?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Thanks mate, anyone know where i can get the bleed blocks from?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Any shimano retailer, come with brakes, come with official bleed kit......usually I don't bother, as long as the pistons stay fully back you're good.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Newfish
    Newfish Posts: 121
    This is the instructions I used along with the bleed kit from epic bleed solutions which is brilliant. Also very good value.

    One thing that happened with me however was that the front brake worked perfectly, really sensitive and loads of stopping power. The back however on stage 12/13 the rear brake was perfect until I removed the syringe from the lever bleed port. The lever then had double the amount of movement the front did, 20-30mm or so. The thing that puzzled me was when I did step 12 it was perfect. My LBS mechanic told me the following steps;

    Remove the rear wheel.
    Squeeze the brake leaver ONCE, FULLY.
    Refit the wheel.
    If the pads need shift ever so slightly then do, but the tiniest amount.
    Fixed!!

    The way it was explained to me was that it is similar to your cassette getting stuck between 'clicks' or the rachet and not completing a cycle, if that makes sense.

    Good luck, its actually very easy, set of good mole grips essential to hold the yellow blocks while you refit the insert thingy in the end of the cut cable.
    Cheers,
    Simon.
    ____________________
    2012 Spesh Rockhopper