Ditching the big ring

The Northern Monkey
The Northern Monkey Posts: 19,174
edited February 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Realised that I've been in the big ring maybe once or twice on the RL.
There aren't many places I need to use the big ring when off road, so thinking of ditching it and saving a bit of weight.

What are my options?

I don't really want a bash, so can I just use some shorter chainring bolts and re adjust the mech?
Or will I have issues with the chain coming off?

Comments

  • Yes, but tbh how much does an outer ring weight and slightly shorter bolts? 100gs?

    1x are where the weight benefits come on.
  • a thin bash will act as a guide to help stop chain coming off the middle. id just go for it and see
    2011 KHS Full Susser Carbon 29er Race Build
    Clank wrote:
    M'eh, I might just go back to zapping it with frikken lay-zur beeeems. And sharks.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Steel outer ring, about 75-90g, ally 35-50g.

    Shorter bolts may save 5g.

    You won't need anything other than the shorter bolts and to adjust the H stop!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • StefanP
    StefanP Posts: 429
    I went for a singlespeed specific chainring for my double, slightly larger than my original middle ring. Ok, so without the ramping shifting up is slightly slower, but I haven't particularly noticed, and you are unlikely to ever shift up under pressure, I haven't ever dropped the chain either. No regrets at all!
  • .blitz
    .blitz Posts: 6,197
    ...use some shorter chainring bolts and re adjust the mech
    Depends. I did exactly that on my Rize and although it seemed OK the chain came off now and again, most often when starting to pedal after freewheeling down a gnar-tech descent. Shortened the chain and fitted a medium cage mech but it still did it. Fitted a bash and the problem went away.

    By the same token my Ramones has been a double from day one with an SLX double front mech and the chain has never come off.

    Personally I'd rather have a reliable drivetrain than save a few grammes. I think Shimano's ramps make it so easy for the chain to shift from the middle to the outer if it's going to come off, it will.
  • When I ditched mine i was advised to go up a couple of teeth on the middle to compensate, popped q 36 on and was spot on, mines also a single ring version but haven't had any problems with shifting with it, gamut race ring,
    i picked up a cheap bash from ebay for a tenner,
    Timmo.
    After all, I am Cornish!
    http://cornwallmtb.kk5.org/
    Cotic Soul, The bike of Legends!:wink: Yes, I Am a bike tart!
    http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtop ... 1#16297481
  • plugp7
    plugp7 Posts: 298
    If you're staying with the triple crank IMO a bashguard just tidies things up if nothing else. I got one off here. http://bbgbashguard.com/ Just over £12 delivered.
    Double front mech and medium rear mech when existing ones wear out/get damaged.
    Cotic Soul 26 inch. Whyte T130
  • jimothy78
    jimothy78 Posts: 1,407
    Have been wondering - is there anything wrong (in theory) with grinding the teeth off an old worn-out big ring and using it as a bash guard? You'd have no worries about having to find different bolts etc...

    Obviously you still might want to size-up on the middle ring, but this would surely be the least expensive way of doing things?

    On that last point - what's the consensus on the best relative sizes for a two ring setup? I assume the bigger the gap the better, to avoid overlap, but presumably there's a cut-off point where derailleurs can't cope easily with the jump up?
  • welshkev
    welshkev Posts: 9,690
    jimothy78 wrote:
    Have been wondering - is there anything wrong (in theory) with grinding the teeth off an old worn-out big ring and using it as a bash guard? You'd have no worries about having to find different bolts etc...

    Obviously you still might want to size-up on the middle ring, but this would surely be the least expensive way of doing things?

    On that last point - what's the consensus on the best relative sizes for a two ring setup? I assume the bigger the gap the better, to avoid overlap, but presumably there's a cut-off point where derailleurs can't cope easily with the jump up?

    when i ran a double and bash it was a 22/36 set up. seemed perfect for me
  • A couple of peeps go for the grind off the teeth method, if your big is knackered then it has very little use other than a Large bike Ninja throwing star! ;-)
    Mines 24/36 at the mo and is good, normally give up on the ups when it gets all wobbly and weavy through my bad riding lol!
    Timmo.
    After all, I am Cornish!
    http://cornwallmtb.kk5.org/
    Cotic Soul, The bike of Legends!:wink: Yes, I Am a bike tart!
    http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtop ... 1#16297481
  • .blitz
    .blitz Posts: 6,197
    32/22 with an 11-32 cassette on the Rize
    36/24 with an 11-34 on the Ramones

    Both work fine for me
  • jomoj
    jomoj Posts: 777
    I've just converted from a triple to a 36/22 with an 11-34 block. Kept the inner 22 and fitted a steel deore 36T ring (£10 from CRC) and used the same chainring bolts but padded them out with washers - cheaper than new bolts and looks neat enough. I used my triple front mech and it worked ok once adjusted.

    I rode a 1x9 on my cx bike for a year and even on the road I rarely found I was undergeared (well up to about 25mph) so it should be fine off-road but I reckon a 38/24 could be a better setup if your local terrain is generally faster and less hilly.