Thinking about cycling to work.

shyretirer
shyretirer Posts: 26
edited February 2013 in Commuting general
Hi all,

I'm thinking about starting to commute by bike soon, as really getting fed up with driving all the time. I started a new job about 4 months or so ago which is about 10 miles away, and I'm looking for advice on what bike to get, routes to take etc.

Some background..... I used to cycle about 6 miles each way about 3 years ago, using a fairly bad "Argos Special" mountain bike, which was okay for that distance, but a bit hard going if I am traveling any further, but since then I've been made redundant, and had to get a job which was a little too far (20 miles) to cycle to, which is when I started driving. But, as previously mentioned, got a new job which is half the distance, and so thinking about getting back in the saddle.

Any advice on...... what bike to get (the shortest route is by main road, down the Windsor Relief Road but a bit unsure about getting a road bike as not had one since I was 15), and other general advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

SR

Comments

  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    What budget do you have for the bike?
  • About £750
  • rubertoe
    rubertoe Posts: 3,994
    Boardman hybrid? fast, well speced and more up right riding position?
    "If you always do what you've always done, you'll always get what you've always got."

    PX Kaffenback 2 = Work Horse
    B-Twin Alur 700 = Sundays and Hills
  • Thanks for that, clarkey cat. I'll have a look at that one!
  • MichaelW
    MichaelW Posts: 2,164
    Commuter roadbikes need to have all-weather and useful luggage carrying capability. You can hack some race-bikes to do this but it is much easier and better if you plan for this use.
    Get tyre clearance for 28mm + mudguards and threaded eyelets for rack and mudguards.
    You may be OK with race gearing but many prefer the compact double for lower gears.
    Caliper brakes are OK but disc brakes give better wet weather performance, hence the popularity of cyclo-cross styles.
  • I've got a Trek 1.5 equipped with rear pannier rack and mudguards add some Conti 4 seasons and I have a bike that gets me to and from work with planty of luggage space for clothes, lunch etc and that is perfectly stable in wet conditions.
    The riding position isn't as aggresive as some and the Tiagra components are more than adequet for a noob like me!
  • mr_eddy
    mr_eddy Posts: 830
    Maybe you should look at a Cyclocross bike. They typically have drop bars but combined with a more relaxed frame so you have a comfortable riding position. They are made usually out of steel or Aluminium so are very hard wearing and have decent ratio gears with good quality components. Most have Cantilever brakes which are powerful and are cheap to maintain and service.

    They have wider tires than a normal road bike and can handle rough terrain no problem.

    Also as they have the drop bar handle bars and road bike wheels they are also good for long distance rides too if you ever fancied a day out on a Sunday.

    A decent cyclocross can be had for around £500 from all the usual brands (trek, Giant, specialised etc). Check out evans cycles as they have some good deals at the mo.

    If your commute is flat then another option ( one that I took too and have never looked back ) is a single speed. These can either be flat bar or drop bar and are great for commuting, they are not so good on steep hills or long descents but they require little to no maintenance, I personally find that a SS is more enjoyable than a geared bike.

    Some good options are Trek District and Charge Plug. Again Evans has a large online selection.

    Cheers

    If you look at SS bikes avoid fixed gear as these are quite tricky to ride.
  • mr_eddy
    mr_eddy Posts: 830
    Also forgot to mention Mudguards are a must for commuting, I have a set of Crud Road Racer 2 guards that will fit on just about any bike that uses 700c 23/25c tyres. They don't need eyelets and stop most of the rubbish flying up your back or onto your face.

    They are available from Evans, Wiggle, Chain Reaction, Amazon for about £25
  • just wanna add a +1 to the road bike (or CX) option - I'm one of many that have gone down the hybrid route only to realise my mistake within a few months (swopped mine for a road bike within 4 months). When its windy (all winter) you'll really notice the difference.

    Best thing to do is get a list of bikes in your price range and test ride as many as you can. Also you will need mudguards and as for racks...you may want one or you can get a Carradice saddlebag and mounting system (they go from small to very large sizes) if a bike you like doesn't have mudguard mounting points.

    And don't forget the other bits and bobs you'll need to buy - pumps, tools (for changing tyres and minor stuff while you're out), lights, locks, helmet (if you want) and so on.

    10 miles is a great distance, good luck!
  • inkz
    inkz Posts: 123
    I use a road bike with a Carradice saddle bag and some crud road racer mudguards. You don't need eyelets as long as you have the clearances to get the guards on.

    Best bet is to get down your LBS and sit on a few. I spent ages researching what bike to get and in the end went down the shop and got none of my shortlist.

    Also see if you new job do the cycle to work scheme.
  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    my commute ride is around 10 miles each way - it does have a reasonable hill in the middle so I have to climb both ways - going is just a long slog up a shallow gradient and the return is a short/sharp climb ...

    I would echo the CX advice if you intend to ride in all weathers otherwise a comfortable roadbike would be fine. I started riding on a roadbike, added roadracer mudguards for the first bit of the winter but when it got really wet & mucky I moved over onto a hybrid with solid guards. I wasn't happy with the straight bars so bought a CX bike with the mudguard fixing points and moved the solids onto that - I'm riding that one now - that's worked through the snow & ice we've had down here (32mm cx tyres) and it'll save the road bike for the dry days.

    I do have a rack and places to mount it - but I haven't fitted it because I've found a small rucksack to be adequate for my needs.

    I'd say primary concerns for commuting is being seen and staying dry/comfortable so decent lights, reflectives and suitable clothing is a must.
    Lastly - you need to enjoy the ride - there's no point being cold, wet and uncomfortable on a bike that is a pig to ride ... it is important to get these bits right but don't expect to have it right on first ride - it will take a little while for you to adapt to your new method of travel.
  • The amusing thing about every thread like this is the uniformity of the responses: there is none. Road bike, hybrid, CX, audax, etc, are the selection always recommended. I suppose at least nobody's recommending BMX or MTB bikes, which potentially shortens the list you may have started with. ;)

    Ultimately you're going to need to take down the list of responses and tick them all off one-by-one. Good luck!
  • single speed - for low maintenance costs
  • daddy0
    daddy0 Posts: 686
    I suppose at least nobody's recommending BMX

    I used to commute on my BMX back in the days when you could take a bike on the train to London. I used to do 2 miles at each end - so about 8 miles a day. My wife also used to commute about 6 miles each way on a BMX and loved it. They are brilliant for short sprints, as long as you can bunnyhop up kerbs, and same as any SS, as long as there are no hills!
    or MTB bikes
    Don't be ridiculous!!

    I spose at least nobody has recommended a Raleigh Chopper yet...

    My vote nowadays would have to be for road bike. I had a hybrid and quickly realised that it was a compromised road bike really, so is has become my wet bike. A nice light and fast road bike is much more enjoyable on the road than any other bike. If you're like me and want to go fast then just get the best road bike you can, wear a rucksack when you need to take clothes or whatever to work, don't bother with mud guards or racks - leave some clothes at work that you can change into. If it rains, ride slower and clean the chain when you get home.

    If you're sensible then follow the herd and get a proper commuter road/cx bike with mudguards. Aluminium frame, strong wheels, gatorskin/puncture proof tyres. It does make sense, and I wish I had a CX bike with disc brakes as an additional bike.

    Don't forget you will want to get lights, spare tubes, track pump for home, small pump for carrying, oil, degreaser, grease, tools (allen keys, spanners, wire cutters, pedal wrench, cassette tool etc...) decent locks (although I wouldn't leave a nice bike locked up outdoors these days), cycling clothes (gloves, base layers, shorts etc...), a helmet (or a nice cap), SPD pedals and shoes, water bottle - all of which can cost you £100s more.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I use a Hybrid, disc brakes are great on a commute as you get better braking earlier as the discs stay dryer, mine uses a flipped stem and flat bars so my hand position is probably about hoods height on dropped bars but I prefer the flats through traffic and for bunnyhopping the speed bumps.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • alidaf
    alidaf Posts: 147
    Only make a short list based on recommendations - always try the bike first, preferably from a local bike shop that have a good reputation. If you are going to commute then your bike will need regular maintenance and a good relationship with the bike shop is a good way to get some discounts as a regular customer, plus a more personal service.

    As for mudguards etc. You can take them or leave them but make sure you are going to get something from your investment by keeping the commute going. It starts getting expensive when it really needn't be. I'd invest in some decent cycling gear first, according to your riding style and road/weather conditions.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    I use a 'hybrid' and because it is customised, it works better on the road for me than a drop bar road bike. So it depends on what the bike is.
  • Thank you all for your advice, much appreciated!

    I had to commute in by bike today, using my "Silverfox" MTB..... which was interesting. Going there, I took the direct route, along the main road that runs past Legoland, but that has quite a steep hill. On the way back, I went across Winkfield Plain, which, although longer, was more enjoyable. But, still a struggle.

    I must admit to thinking about a CX bike of some description, as they seem almost as fast as a road bike, but with more freedom as to where I can go. The longer flatter route takes me past the boating lake at Eton Dorney, which is not the smoothest of paths.

    Thanks again for your help!
  • agg25
    agg25 Posts: 619
    I got one of these Whyte Stirling's for £850, paying it off on the CycleScheme - http://www.bikeradar.com/commuting/gear ... g-13-46925

    It a hybrid, and I'd never go for a road bike with drop bars for a 10 mile commute. I've had it for 7 months now and no regrets at all. I tried a road bike with drop bars and a cyclocross bike but the low position is no good for riding through London traffic and the stopping power of disc brakes make rim brakes seem archaic.

    Road bikes with drop bars are fine if you're in a peleton riding very long distances where you need to change hand positions (although I did the London - Brighton a few times on a mountain bike and didn't get sore hands) but for me, a 10 mile commute through traffic, starting and stopping (sometimes very suddenly, in the rain) a road bike isn't the best idea. That and your hands in the drop position aren't near the brakes if a dopey pedestrian jumps out at you or a car turns in front of you.

    Also, this hybrid, or one like the Boardman, are pretty much as quick as a road bike, they only weigh 9kgs. I pass plenty of roadies on the way to work and them having drop bars doesn't mean they've instantly got 100hp legs. Anyway, it's not like you're in a race, the main objective is to get to work in one piece.

    So, don't just listen to those bagging hybrids and saying you'll only just trade it in for something else because I haven't and wouldn't want to. Try them out for yourself and choose what you feel comfortable with.
  • caad5
    caad5 Posts: 76
    good luck
  • Again, thanks for the advice.

    Some ideas I've been having are....

    http://www.hargrovescycles.co.uk/produc ... RqynPIrNeF

    Or a Boardman hybrid of some description.

    If I get a pure road bike, I think that would cut down on the number of routes I can realistically go. I don't think I could really go along the Jubilee river/ Eton Dorney route using one.