Cheap fixie

joey21
joey21 Posts: 53
edited February 2013 in The workshop
I'm looking at putting together a cheap fixie for taking around town etc. All I need to buy is a frame and a brake.

The problem I've got is that the wheelset I have got is QR so couldn't really use it on a horizontal dropout frame, right?

I have thought about using a chain tensioner, is this a bad idea being a fixie? Would I really be looking at getting a new rear wheel as well as a frame with horizontal dropouts?

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    using tugs and Qrs could be OK

    a tensioner is a no no on a Fixed.

    what is the hub? you may be able to swap out the axle.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • joey21
    joey21 Posts: 53
    The hub is just a cheap loose ball screw on jobby. So I really need a frame with Horizontal dropouts then? Would chain tensioners be ok with QR wheels then?
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    bet you could swap it out to a solid nutted axle.

    a tensioner is never ever any good on a fixed.

    chain tugs yes.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • joey21
    joey21 Posts: 53
    Sorry I did mean tugs! I also think the axle could be changed so I will look into that. In terms of a frame, I've got a set of 1 1/8th forks, and I am reluctant to buy anything else(Trying to do this as cheap as possible), and the wheels are 700c, there are plenty of cheap frames on ebay, but is the spacing of the rear wheel still 135mm?
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    well there are a few ways to do it.

    track frames are 120mm IIRC road frames are 130mm and MTB are 135mm.

    so measure up your wheels and take it from there.

    I used a 135 spaced frame and a MTB front 20mm hub for mine.

    look at Velosolo.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    JD sports are currently doing a cheap fixie/SS (flip flop hub), steel framed, flat bars for £125.......
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • pdw
    pdw Posts: 315
    According to Sheldon, there's no issue with using a QR on horizontal drop outs provided that you use a decent one. I've used a couple of geared bikes with horizontal drop outs. One had a really cheap and nasty QR and was hard to do up tight enough. The other is absolutely fine.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The point isn't QR with horizontal, it's with Fixie as well......
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • pete_s
    pete_s Posts: 213
    Not sure what the problem with using a QR on the rear with horizontal dropouts would be? I'm converting a Claud Butler Majestic frame to a fixie and it used QR back in the '70s when it was made. Unless you're going to be doing skids the force applied to the wheel through the chain wont be anymore in a fixed gear than a freewheeling one in the equivalent gear.

    You don't need a frame with horizontal dropouts or track ends to make a fixed gear bike, it's just so much easier and cheaper to do it that way which is what you want.

    From the experiances I've had so far this is what I've discovered:
    - The fixed gear component market is limited when it comes to converting bikes, because....
    - ...most components for fixed gear riding are for track cycling. Using a track frame is so much easier to get all the bits and pieces that fit together. Also, there is a plethora of information about what stuff works with what (Google 'Transmission Database fixed gear' - I don't want to link to another forum :lol:).
    - Avoid any information with the words suicide and hub in the same sentence.
    - Always measure what you have infront of you and don't assume everything is standard. There are also standards within standards (i.e. the 1" standard headtube has a JIS and ISO standard within it - who knew??).
    - When you say to your partner that it will only be a cheap bike you are unwittingly lying to them. Bikes are expensive :cry:.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    pete_s wrote:
    You don't need a frame with horizontal dropouts or track ends to make a fixed gear bike, it's just so much easier and cheaper to do it that way which is what you want.
    So you think the tensioner will cope with full leg braking chain loads? Good luck with that...
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • pete_s
    pete_s Posts: 213
    Not quite, no...

    http://www.whiteind.com/rearhubs/singlespeedhubs.html

    http://www.philwood.com/products/bbpages/eccentric.php

    http://www.63xc.com/toddp/halflink.htm

    Or

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDyObKloVrI
  • dav1
    dav1 Posts: 1,298
    The Beginner wrote:
    JD sports are currently doing a cheap fixie/SS (flip flop hub), steel framed, flat bars for £125.......

    can you provide a link to this? although I cant see it being any good for that money
    Giant TCR advanced 2 (Summer/race)
    Merlin single malt fixie (Commuter/winter/training)
    Trek superfly 7 (Summer XC)
    Giant Yukon singlespeed conversion (winter MTB/Ice/snow)

    Carrera virtuoso - RIP

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