headset bearing cage - The Holly Grail

bazildog

My headset bearings are no longer round. The headset is a FSA TH-855, I am 100% on the FSA TH bit but 99% on the 855 bit. It's in bits right now and the ball bearing cage holds 20 balls.

I cannot find the cage and balls anywhere.....any body know where i can get them please? The bit where the balls sit (is that the race?) looks ok for a replacement.

Plan B would be to buy the same headset which is here i think: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=91165

Plan C would be a new headset with cartridge or fully sealed bearings, would any 1 1/18th headset do me?

Plan C is probably better than plan B but budget is an issue for me.

Plan D would be to go for just ball bearings with no cage and apparently Teflon grease to make putting it back together a bit easier?

The bike is a cyclocross Kona Jake 2010. I have had it just over one year, riding mainly road for my any weather commute and off road away from bleeding white van man when i get the opportunity. Not the most expensive bike but way the best I have ever had. Very annoyed to find out that some of these stock parts on the bike have been downgraded from the standard of similar parts off the shelf. My bottom bracket went last week now the headset this week. With my alternate transport being a 1980 camper van that supports most of the Middle East I need my two wheel companion back on the road ASAP!

Thanks

Matt

ugo.santalucia

You have a threadless headset, so any 1 and 1/8 threadless will be OK. I am not sure FSA does spare bearings. In my experience of threadless, the best I had/have is a Campagnolo Record one. Despite three years of use in all weathers, the rubber seal at the bottom has kept the bearings nice and clean. Highly recommended.

PS: I am not a big fan of FSA in general, I think their stuff is overpriced junk...

nicklouse

just get some balls the same size and without the cage fill the race with balls then take 2 out and fir rgw rest of the headset,

sorted.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... ice#adjust

It is also possible to replace retainer ball bearing with loose bearings. Grease cups to hold bearings, and place balls into cup shaped races. Leave a wide gap the size of two ball bearings, do not attempt to fully fill cup.

g00se

Yup - no need for the cage. In fact, might run smoother. Some argue the cage is just there to ease mass production and installation and adds nothing to the function.

bazildog

ugo.santalucia - makes sense, I would would be very happy with 3 years. Maybe you are better at servicing than me. The current ones have been left to fend for themselves - I had not re-greased ever. Everything with FSA written on it on the bike has failed in just over one year so your conclusion fits my experience.

I think i will go with just balls to get it up and running this time and a sealed or cartridge headset next time it needs attention.

Many thanks to you all for the help, much appreciated.

estampida

+1 on using loose bearings

and if you are going to replace on a CX bike, use an MTB headset (hope, superstar...)

better sealing built for UK conditions and as they are UK companies the chance of getting spares is going to be easy

hope also sell separate bottom and top cups if the whole unit seems to expensive (pick and mix..)

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=68365

bazildog

Good advice again....and the lbc thinks they have a cage so lots of options now.

Thanks

cycleclinic

Loose balls should always be used. Bearings run better that way. Get good grade 25 bearings though your headset will last longer.

ugo.santalucia

A headset doesn't exactly need to rotate... it's there mostly for load bearing and to ensure play. A cage keeps the balls together, so that when you open the headset they don't fall all over the place... let's face it, the cage is practical, at least at the bottom

bazildog

Well its back together. LBC had a cage with 22 balls that fitted fine. My 20 ball FSA effort must have been a cost cut. So £2.50 spent and I am back in business. Hope brand bottom cup and sealed bearing will be ordered after pay day so when this set of balls is done the parts will be to hand to improve the bike.

I took photos of the spacer set up that helped. Needed more of those and a clear reference in the pics as to which way up it all was. I used a hammer and old bit of wood to get the stem out. After putting it all back I found the handle bars felt a little stiff. My biking mate told me to slacken off the brake bracket and loosen the nut at the top of the headset a little and then bounce the wheel off the floor to take up slack. That worked, then I tightened the top nut but but not too much. I will give it a week on the road to bed in then loosen and re-tighten it all into final place. LBC had run out of grease but gave me a few squirts in a plastic blister pack from their workshop tub to complete the job.

With no bike repair stand and little experience with bike repairs I found the cages made the job easier than going for loose balls.

Sorted

TheRealGuybrush

A cage will make the job easier, but its always best to go with loose balls. The cages usually go before the balls, and then you have broken fragments of cage rolling around with the bearings which will cause a lot more wear sooner.

Are you only getting a bottom hope cup? You'd be better off getting top and bottom and changing them both when the time comes.

bazildog

Now i have more time to play with i will get top and bottom and change both the next time as you say.