Track position set up

indysmith

Hello,
I'm very new to the track, and have recently built myself a bike.
I am unfortunate in that I have very long legs and a short torso, which means that I usually require a bike with a short top tube and a long head tube to achieve an acceptable fit. (I usually ride "sportive" bikes to achieve a "race" position - this is not an option available on off-the-peg track frames unfortunately)
Regarding position, I have absolutely no idea what the hell I'm doing. I have set my reach up just about the same as I ride on my road bike, with my saddle just a couple of mm higher than usual.
Where I'm really lost is at what sort of saddle-to-handlebar drop I should be running? I've put some road bars on rather than track bars to counteract the short-torso effect, but I've currently got a LOT of stack height under the stem to make the position less extreme.

I'd be grateful for any tips!



P.S. Please don't tell me I've got a frame size too small because the next size up would be FAR too long in the top tube

DHTT

Just a quick idea if you want to reduce the 'Stack' of spacers, I seem to remember at the Track World Cup in the Omniums a lot of the riders do this, so when racing the Pursuits they can put on the TT bars at a lower position, then when race bunch races they have a rising stem and drops to have less extreme position. Hope that makes sense :-)

Eddy S

indysmith wrote:

Where I'm really lost is at what sort of saddle-to-handlebar drop I should be running? I've put some road bars on rather than track bars to counteract the short-torso effect, but I've currently got a LOT of stack height under the stem to make the position less extreme.

If you're still new to track, don't look for an extreme saddle to bar drop - that position is usually the domain of sprinters anyway - you need to keep your head up and alert during bunch races, especially as a beginner. Start with replicating your road set up (as you've done) although I usually recommend running a reach an inch or so shorter.

If you want to get rid of some of the stack of spacers, use a 17° stem like a Thompson (sprinters favorite) or a high quality adjustable stem like a Deda.

chrisvanderkaap

I get your dilemma. Note that track rides (usually) are way shorter than the rides we generally do on the road. So getting in a 'comfort' position is not the first thing i'd think about. that being said I think I've seen track bikes with a longer (as much as 14cm) pointed upwards to compensate for riders with shorter torso. In your case you can use a perhaps shorter +17 degree stem. Apart from that adjust the position of your saddle more forward to as much as an inch! over your spindle. It's quite standard in track riding to be more 'forward' as it gets more easier to tip forward in a sprinting position. About the bars I think it's is not as much the depth of the drops as it is the width that differs from their road counterparts. So just give them a go and see how they feel.

Most importantly, try out some positions (if needed on a rented bike) on the track and see how you feel. That's when you can see what you can live with in terms of comfort vs 'performance'.

Nick Fitt

If the bike in the pic is set up for you as you normally ride, it seems to me the saddle is quite far back. I have one of those USE seat posts on my road bike, I find the saddle is better for me further forwards, I am quite lanky too! They are an arse to adjust but that clamp should be at the top of the curved adjuster IMHO. As a result, your saddle is pointing up a bit at the front, these two observations combined might make being in the drops feel a bit weird on any bike. If you flatten your saddle to be parallel the floor (use a spirit level) and as said move it forwards, you should be in a 'rule of thumb' position where when in the drops, looking through your handlebars you should not be able to see your axle. Then, the good thing about track bar drops is they don't tend to foul your forearms when you get out of the saddle. Road bars can get in the way I think though I have only heard this as I've never ridden road bars on a track bike. You might then find Robert is your mothers brother so far as a starting position.

Nice bike anyway!

Its my road bike but you can see the saddle clamp position, hope this helps

indysmith

Hi guys thanks for all the help!
Eddy S, I'm interested in why you recommend a shorter reach on the track.
The position of the saddle in that picture is not how I'll be riding; I'll be fitting an Arione off of another bike. I just threw that one on there for now as it was all I had to hand. However, I will make sure that when I fit the saddle that I position if further forward than usual.
As for pointing the stem upwards, I can't bring myself to do it! I'd rather suffer the stack of spacers I think.
When the snow melts then I'll take it down to Bournemouth velodrome along with my torque wrench and have a fiddle around to see what feels good..

Eddy S

indysmith wrote:

Eddy S, I'm interested in why you recommend a shorter reach on the track.

Why short reach position?

On track, you should be riding on the drops all of the time – many track leagues do not permit the faux TT position .

Therefore you need to be comfortable for long periods on the drops, in control, have the capability for a high degree of manoeuvrability and to be able to look around you easily – that short position will afford you that plus give a broader scope of handholds on the drops.

BTW, if your saddle position has been determined by bike fitting, I really do not recommend achieving the shorter position by moving your saddle forward – it’s where it is for biomechanical reasons. Use a shorter stem.

Pross

I've had a similar problem with my track bike. On the road I use a 'sportive' geometry frame and when I first got my track bike (second hand) I struggled with the amount of drop. It was made worse as I generally ride on the hoods on the road whilst on the track you have to use the drops.

I ended up flipping the stem and getting rid of the bars that were on it for a set of kids bars which had a much shallower drop on them (a suggestion by Courtney at Newport velodrome). This helped quite a bit, I also angled the saddle downwards slightly as the biggest problem area for me was the pain the position caused on my groin. I haven't ridden the bike for a couple of years now but in the meantime I have taken out the spacers on my road bike as I have got fitter / more used to the bike again so I'm hoping that when I get back on the track again shortly the position will be even more tolerable.

suze

I work and coach withing cycling and I was convinced that after 35 years riding my position was just about spot on. I spent 1 1/2 hrs with http://pedalprecision.com/ at the manchester velodrome and havn't regreted it. A few minor tweeks here and there and I'm more efficient. I'd always thought I don't need my position changing but I'm glad I did. So I'd say if you want to set your bike up properly get yourself along to e good bike fitting service.

Eddy S

Pross wrote:

I also angled the saddle downwards slightly as the biggest problem area for me was the pain the position caused on my groin.

Just a word to the wise...
You'll be okay doing this for training, track leagues, etc but if you have aspirations of racing at an event where your bike has to go through tech inspection such as Nat Masters or World Masters, your bike will fail. UCI regs now state that the saddle must be level and the commissaires check.

Pross

Eddy S wrote:

Pross wrote:

I also angled the saddle downwards slightly as the biggest problem area for me was the pain the position caused on my groin.

Just a word to the wise...
You'll be okay doing this for training, track leagues, etc but if you have aspirations of racing at an event where your bike has to go through tech inspection such as Nat Masters or World Masters, your bike will fail. UCI regs now state that the saddle must be level and the commissaires check.

Cheers Eddy, no current aspirations to race at all at the moment let alone at any sort of level (too scared ). I'm hoping that when I next ride the bike the weight I've lost will mean I can get comfortable with a level saddle in any case, it's currently very slightly downwards just to take the pressure off the under carriage. Might try a new saddle if I still have problems.