Does this look right?

dot1

I think the rear mech on my hardtail might have something wrong with it. Sure is wasn't in this position before, but nothing has happened that I know of. The shifting is a bit ropey, and a new cable, chain and cassette hasn't changed anything. Looking at it, I think the top jockey wheel should be closer to the cassette and more to the right (so in a more north-easterly direction). I've adjusted the B adjustment screw (think that what its called, the other screw that isn't a limit screw) but it didn't do anything. Is it because its a shadow mech? Or am I just imagining things?

Cycling is Forever

the distance between your top jockey wheel and cassette is to large
adjust the b screw to bring closer

dot1

I've adjusted the B screw, its wound right out so screwing it in only moves the jockey wheel and the mech further away in the wrong direction. This is why I'm bamboozled.

nicklouse

Who fitted the newstuff?

chain looks too long.

dot1

I did. It was the same situation with my old cassette which was 32-11T with the chain the correct length. The chain prob is too long, but it was cold and was getting dark so I just whacked it on as quick as I could!

njee20

Why such a close ratio block with a single ring? Bit limiting?

You won't get that mech all that close, it's designed around larger cassette sprockets. Shouldn't directly cause issues though.

cobba

The derailleur cable housing looks to be resting on the QR axle nut.
Does the position of the derailleur change if you pull the cable housing out so it doesn't rest on the nut.
It looks to me like the cable housing has been cut too short.

What's the derailleur look like when the chain is on the small cog.

goytregrit

Difficult to know for certain but it is possibke that dérailleur has just moved off its locator perhasps vibration etc. Where your derasilluer is bolted on to the drop out. Undo a few turns on that bolt then push / rotate the deraileur anti clockwise so the top jockery wheel moves closer to cassetee. There is a guide for the derailkeur to be held in that correct place, so then tighten that bolt back up on to hanger in that correct position. Hope thast fixes it for you.

dot1

njee20 wrote:

Why such a close ratio block with a single ring? Bit limiting?

You won't get that mech all that close, it's designed around larger cassette sprockets. Shouldn't directly cause issues though.

The bike is used for commuting on roads, and I found myself only using gears 4-9 so replaced with a closer ratio cassette to give me more useable gears. Mech issue happened with a standard sized MTB cassette as well though.
Gear cable isn't touching the QR skewer so I'm pretty sure that's not the problem. When in top/smallest gear, the mech is in a much closer position to the cassette and the gap between the cassette and jockey wheel is much smaller. I'm suffering shifting issues in the bigger gears I think because the jockey wheel is too far from the cassette, meaning the chain can flex sideways a bit more allowing the mech to move when the gear is chained, but the chain staying where it is.

Not sure how clear I've made that.... :oops:

cobba

Don't know if the following document is for your model or not but look at 'Note' and drawings in the 'Installation of the Rear Derailleur' section.

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SLX/SI_5WM0A_002/SI-5WM0A-002-En_v1_m56577569830648288.pdf

The gap that's mentioned in the document is why I thought the cable housing is too short, it looks like it's not long enough to allow the derailleur bracket to rotate any further downwards on the derailleur hanger and eliminate the gap.

dot1

Actually I think you could be right there, looking at that. It's definitely not right if the gap between the jockey wheel and largest gear is meant to be 5-6mm. Mine's about 5-6cm! Will have a play around with this tomorrow and maybe buy a new inner and outer an set it all up properly. Nice one.