Indentify this "ferrule"?? lol
markyd3
Posts: 132
Hi Guys,
I have another question about ferrules lol
its the silver one in the below pic....
Now im not sure its a ferrule as such but in fits over the rear brake cable housing and basically allows me to use rear V Brakes rather than disk which was what the cable guide was originally designed for, these little ferrule thingies have sort of converted them to a cable stop.
Does anyone know what these are called so as i can get some nice new ones or is there a better way to convert a guide to a stop?
Cheers
Mark
I have another question about ferrules lol
its the silver one in the below pic....
Now im not sure its a ferrule as such but in fits over the rear brake cable housing and basically allows me to use rear V Brakes rather than disk which was what the cable guide was originally designed for, these little ferrule thingies have sort of converted them to a cable stop.
Does anyone know what these are called so as i can get some nice new ones or is there a better way to convert a guide to a stop?
Cheers
Mark
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Got one of those, waste of time, too small for a cable end (including Jagwires own) to fit inside and too big to fit inside the guide on our frame, it's gone in the bin, the one above is better as the end is outside the guide giving more room.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Can't you just run a full cable to the Brake? Full outers are the way forward anyway.0
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heez29 wrote:Full outers are the way forward anyway.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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If i run a full outer it will constantly rub/hit the frame.... doing it this way allows the cable to be held much more taut!!
The Beginner - lol i hope it was just your bike/cables that these didnt fit as i already ordered a bag of 10 lol
if i can get them to fit they will be much neater than whats on there already!!0 -
Those types of ferrules are designed for OPEN stops, as seen on my Kinesis Maxlight frame below
Thats what the ridge at the back of it is for (they sit in a indentation in the frame and are held on with a cable tie). I suspect they wont work on the frame pictured (you need the silver ferrule pictured, as it's narrow enough for the front to go between the two semicircular raised bits)0 -
The Beginner wrote:heez29 wrote:Full outers are the way forward anyway.
Heavier, really?
Flex, potentially. A good length of outer will make a negligable difference anyway, you still have stops on the shifter and the mech. I for one have never had problems running full outers, I have however ran into problems with mud/grit slowing down the return of the mech on a ride.markyd3 wrote:If i run a full outer it will constantly rub/hit the frame.... doing it this way allows the cable to be held much more taut!!
I doubt it would rub. Hit, yes it could do but I don't think it would do damage...
To stop it from moving around yes but again hardly a noticeable difference if we're talking performance differences.0 -
Yes it is heavier and yes it does flex/compress leaving gears to be slightly more squishy no matter how small the effect is, it is never improved.0
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I wasn't disputing that the extra 80cm of outer isn't heavier. I was merely surprised that 80cm of extra outer would make a difference in your riding.
Of all my experiences with full length outers I haven't experienced problems with compression. I know that it is a possibility but it's an experience I have never had.0 -
There are advantages in full outers, there are different advantages in none full outers. Personally I find full outers cleaner and easier and prefer them. The weight is not an issue, just don't eat so many pies.Planet X Kaffenback 2
Giant Trance X2
Genesis High Latitude 2x10
Planet X n2a
Genesis Core 200