Change of stem = Loose headset, what have I done?

daniel_b

Hello all,

posted on here recently about my notchey headset - rang the lbs today and they qouted £20 to fit, and £40 for an equivalent Cane Creek one to the one that is fitted to my felt.

I had some time today, and fitted a new Ambrosio Stem - nothing fancy, but should do the job.

So, I removed the bolt from the top of the stem, and then loosened off the two bolts on the stem, and slid it upwards to dislodge the cap, took it all off, replaced with the new one, tightened up the stem side bolts first, and then finished with the top bolt, and did it up pretty tight.

Spun the bars left and right, and was delighted to find that the notchiness was gone, great I thought, saves me £60.

Just had a look at it now, and thought I could feel something rattling, and when I press the front brake, I can move the bike, and see the headset move where it meets the top of the frame

Took it all apart again, made sure the stem was fully down onto the top of the fork, tapped it down, but it was down anyway, tighted the side ones up again, and then tightened up the top bolt - but it's still the same, if not worse.
I'm putting a lot of effort into tightening the top bolt, probably more than I would really like to do, so I do not think it is a tightening issue, and the old one did not require a herculean effort to remove it.

Is it something I have done, is it a straight mechanical fault, or is it an incompatibility issue - I can of course try the old stem back on, and may well do so tomorrow, but just wondered if anyone had any ideas?

Many thanks

Dan

nicklouse

so you clamped the stem before preloading the bearings.

top cap before stem bolts or the top bolt can not do anything.

have a read of Parktools.

Yossie

simples - top nut first then side bolts.

Bloody good effort at doing it yourself first though.

Y

rolf_f

Yep - better to find some instructions rather than guess! All you are doing is pressing the top cap onto the stem - which is not what it is there for.

The other thing is that changing the stem is not likely to cure a notchy headset........

daniel_b

Thanks all,

just been messing around with it - figured out my own stupidity with the order of the bolts :oops:

Popped the old one on, and this immediately made it notchy but not rocking at all.
Put the replacement back on, and now it does not rock, but is even more notchy than the old one, so I guess a new headset is required after all :-(

Does a cane creek for £40 sound ok, anything else I might consider?

Yossie

if you do go down the lbs route, ask to sit in on the job so you can learn how to do it next time - if its a decent lbs they shouldn't have a problem.

Re the notchiness itself: take it all apart and run your finger around the bearing seats: any imperfections, its junk and new one required, otherwise thorough degrease, clean, new grease, reassemble.

Re prices: shop around - dependant on what you use the bike for should give you an eye for the level (and cost) of the part you need.

nicklouse

Daniel B wrote:

Thanks all,

just been messing around with it - figured out my own stupidity with the order of the bolts :oops:

Popped the old one on, and this immediately made it notchy but not rocking at all.
Put the replacement back on, and now it does not rock, but is even more notchy than the old one, so I guess a new headset is required after all :-(

Does a cane creek for £40 sound ok, anything else I might consider?

Cane creek do headsets from not much to a lot.

But if you can sit in as they change it you will learn more that that much in info.

If you are up for that then take cookies aswell.

Also read th topics on Parktools. They cover just about everything and also show which of their tools are needed. (Other tools and bodges are possible).