Which BB and tool to change this crankset?

simonfoley

I will give you all I have and see if any kind person can help me save an old trusty friend from the scrap heap. The main issue I have is compatibility of new crankset and removing the old.

I have an old TREK 4100 MTB which I bought in 2001. http://www.mtbr.com/cat/older-categorie ... 10crx.aspx more or less.

I use it still everyday for commuting and although its days of going off road are finished, I would still like to keep it for the winter. The drive chain is screwed as one can imagine after years of use.

Sourcing from CRC, I managed to get a new 8sp chain for £12, this derailer http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=30990 for £19 and a new front derailer for £15 and this crankset http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=46023 for £30, a new cassette for £10. New cables are £10. So, for around £100 I can get the whole drive chain replaced and save having to buy something new for three times that at least.

My issue is that that I have changed all these components before except the crankset. The one of there now is this one http://velospec.com/components/shimano/fcc050 which is no longer made.

My questions are:

What tool would I need to remove the old crankset and is the new one I am about to order compatible? Will I need another tool? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=46023?

This is a very similar one to that which I have now http://www.kurbelix.com/dbild/original_ ... C-C051.jpg

Also which BB will I need?

Thanks for any advice before I embark on the project.

Simon

supersonic

You need one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CYCLEPRO-CRAN ... vi-content

Then a tool(s) to remove and fit the bottom bracket. It depends what is on there though - try and identify the type of bottom bracket.

maringirl

Your existing crankset is FC050 which is square taper removeable with std bb tool. The crankset you have ordered is an Octalink fitting - so you need an octalink bb - spindle length 118mm - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=34653

simonfoley

Thanks, guys. That should get me started. Great help.

supersonic

But what is the existing bottom bracket? Could be at least 3 different tools that could remove it.

maringirl

He said the one on there is the Tourney FC050 - which is square taper

supersonic

But what is the model of bottom bracket?!!! FC050 is the chainset, not bottom bracket. There are many models of square taper bottom brackets, each which could have a unique tool ie an 8 spline, 20 spline, 3 notch etc. The chainset will come off with a standard extractor, but until the BB is identified for the model we will not know what tools will remove that.

maringirl

Think we were at x-purposes on the answer - thought OP question was about getting crankset off rather than removing the BB and yes tool for removing the BB depends...

cooldad

maringirl wrote:

Think we were at x-purposes on the answer - thought OP question was about getting crankset off rather than removing the BB and yes tool for removing the BB depends...

Errrrr....

maringirl wrote:

Your existing crankset is FC050 which is square taper removeable with std bb tool. The crankset you have ordered is an Octalink fitting - so you need an octalink bb - spindle length 118mm - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=34653

simonfoley

Well I got the old crank off with the normal tool. It was really tough work after 12 years of not being removed. I then managed to get out the old BB.

The difficulties came when I tried to fit the and I bought after the advice in this thread http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=34653 as I got the 118mm as advised by was careless and got the 68 x 118mm and of course it has too small a diameter. I guess I should have got the 73 x 118mm one, assuming that the 73 is the diameter?

One lives and learns. Now the obligatory wait for a week before the new one comes

Simon

nicklouse

73mm is the width of the BB the diameter is the same.

Pics of what you actually have infront of you and how it does not fit.

simonfoley

Ahead of this - thanks for taking the time with this. I am always grateful for any time taken to help out a random stranger.

Okay. The bike - no laughing please. We are attached and I relatively poor.

I thought that the BB housing may have needed rethreading but this is not the issue. I cleaned it well and have tried it with the old BB thread which thread in, no worries. The BB will just not thread in. I thought it might be too small but I am just not sure.

The chain side has no thread as you see from the pictures.

simonfoley

Thanks for any help given.

One last question. Do I need to buy BB Cups also`?

nicklouse

ok you are putting it in from the wrong side.

but if that tape is measureing 73mm you have a 68mm BB get it swapped.

simonfoley

No, I am definetly not putting in from the wrong side. I think it is a length problem. Okay, back to CRC.

Thanks.

simonfoley

And BB cups?

cooldad

You are putting it in wrong - the fixed side goes on the drive side (which is why it has R on it - right side looking from the top) and the loose bit on the ND side.
Not sure what BB cups you refer to. It's a cartridge BB.

Horton

Urm... Errr... That very first photo... the one that says "narrower than the other side and no thread"...

I might be very mistaken, but I think your old BB was so utterly knackered that you have somehow managed to remove the cartridge unit from the "fixed" end and leave the bit that screws into the frame actually in the frame. That needs to come out, then you will see some (probably fairly corroded and gunked up) threads.

The threads run in different directions on the drive side and the non-drive side so that would also explain why it isn't catching a thread when you're trying to put it in (cos they're right, you are trying to put in in the wrong hole so to speak)... You need to take out that cup that is currently in the drive side still, then start again, putting the BB in from the right side.

Have a read of this to make sure you're undoing things the right direction... If I'm completely wrong, apologies, I'm knackered! http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-replacing-shimano-truvativ-or-fsa-bottom-brackets-27046/

cooldad

That sounds sounds about right.

nicklouse

simonfoley wrote:

No, I am definetly not putting in from the wrong side. I think it is a length problem. Okay, back to CRC.

Thanks.

yes you are

the BB should look like this



see

the side with the R is the drive side. and the cup is on the left.

your old silver part is for a BB that fits the opposite way with the fixed cup on the ND side.


sides are as you sit on it. the r and the l are nothing to do with thread or anything else.

nicklouse

also it looks like you have been giving it some trying to get it to fit so i would be getting the threads cleaned on the frame before fitting the new on the right way around.

simonfoley

Horton, I think you are right. It makes absolute sense. Clever man. I will get the hacksaw out tonight if I cannot unscrew it.

Trickier job than I imagining, but I am learning and that is always a life plus.

Simon

nicklouse

i sugest read in this before doing anything else

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... ervice-bbt

simonfoley

THREADING NOTE: Most modern bikes use an ISO thread standard for the bottom bracket. The left side thread is a right-hand direction thread, which tightens clockwise and removes counter-clockwise. This standard is also called English or BSC. The right side (drive side) thread is a left-hand thread, which tightens counter-clockwise and remove clockwise. There are some exceptions to the ISO.

is the key bit of advice it seems. But this was also really useful: http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/w ... ets-27046/

Thanks once again for taking the time. Once I get this all sorted, I am going to put a picture up. I will have a go tonight and take a photo.

Simon

simonfoley

Success. I finally got the new crank on and installed the chain etc.

However, I may have to start a new thread with this as I have one last problem.

I replaced the rear derailer whilst I was there also - no problems - this works fine.

However, I suspect the new crankset is slightly wider across the inner to outer rings. Using the full range of motion on the current front derailer, and putting the adjustments bolts to their extremes, I cannot get any clearance between the derailer and outer ring - it just rubs. It seems like the range of motion on the very old (12 years) derailer is just too narrow.

I have tried all adjustments. Can anyone recommend a good 7/8speed front derailer for a triple such as I the one I linked to earlier in this thread?

The Rookie

There are no adjustment screws, they are stops, the deraileur shouldn't be able to touch the rings so suspect you've fitted a larger (44T instead of 42T for example) ring and need to move the deraileur up the seattube to clear it.

Cranksets haven't got wider they have got narrower to suit the modern narrower chains (9 and 10) other wise they are the same width as they always were.

simonfoley

I have tried moving it up to no avail. It is a very old deralier so I will start from scratch with a new one.