stumjumper FSR...again

ry1978

Some of you may have read my previous thread where I bought a 2006 Specialized stumpjumper FSR120 frame from eBay and built it up with spare parts after respraying it grey/blue.
This is the original thread
viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12866922&p=17956950&hilit=stumpjumper+refurb#p17956950

Well after riding it for 6 months and realising that it was possibly the perfect frame for my style of riding and my local trails I decided to buy a few upgrades at christmas.

I also replaced the frame bearings, while it was stripped down I thought I may as well give it another respray as I was never totally happy with the colour or the decals.

This is the original mat black frame I bought...


This is it after the rebuild and spray in august/september...


and this is the freshly painted new colour scheme, all done with spray cans again (although I've got a bit more adventurous with the masking tape now and started doing multiple colours!)...




I have bought the following upgrades...
2013 Mavic crossrides
deore brakes
reverb post
charge saddle
superstar nano pedals
hans dampfs front & rear

I should have the build finished this weekend and Ill get some pictures as well as a full spec list

booyaka

that's a stunning spray can job - well done!

Greer_

booyaka wrote:

that's a stunning spray can job - well done!

+1, lovely!

ry1978

Cheers for the comments, I'm really happy with the finish now. I've been building it back up today and everything's now back on...

The light is terrible so I'll try to get some better pictures soon



Just need to adjust the mechs as they're not quite right, the brake lines are a bit too long as well. It's gone dark though so it'll have to wait til tomorrow

qooqiiu

Nice job. Like it!

ry1978

Spec...


Frame: 2006 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR120
Forks: Fox vanilla 140mm
Shock: Fox triad
Bars: Superstar
Stem: Raceface
Headset: FSA orbit
Grips: Superstar lock on

Front Brake : Shimano Deore 2012
Rear Brake : Shimano Deore 2012

Shifters: Shimano LX
Cables: Shimano
Front Mech: Shimano LX
Rear Mech: Shimano SLX

Seat: Charge Spoon
Seat Post: Rockshox Reverb 125mm
Seat Post Clamp: Specialized

Cranks: Raceface Ride XC
Chainring(s): Raceface Ride XC
Chain: Shimano
Cassette: Shimano SLX
Pedals: Superstar nano
Bottom Bracket: Raceface X-Type

Front Wheel: Mavic crossride
Tyre: Shwalbe Hans Dampf

Back Wheel: Mavic crossride
Tyre: Shwalbe Hans Dampf

Tintin rize

Wowowowo good job mate look fxxxxxxx good !

leaflite

Awesome work with the paint! It completely transforms the look of the bike.

mikewoods

Superb decision - looks fooking fantastic!!

Rigga

Great job!!

ry1978

Thanks again, I took a few more pics in the daylight this morning...










Had a quick ride round the park to make sure everything is working and all seems good

qooqiiu

Huge gap on your stem :!:

ry1978

qooqiiu wrote:

Huge gap on your stem :!:

Yeah, the face plate wasn't tightened up evenly in that picture. Cheers

ry1978

Easton vice riser bar has just arrived, I'll get some pics up when I've fitted it.

WindyG

Nice build and paint job, you might want to get some heli tape on it though.

ry1978

A few pics with the new Easton handlebars fitted...


I was hoping of getting up to gisburn this weekend but my 6 month old little girl has been a bit ill so it looks like the full test will have to wait!

cjlynch

Hello Ry1978,

I just came across your 2013 entry explaining the acquisition of a 2006 Stumpjumper Frame etc.

I have had a 2007 Stumpjumper FSR Comp from new, and like it's overall performance. The only issue I
did find annoying was the frequent problem with the Avid Juicy 5 calipers 'sticking' in the end I replaced them with Shimano SLX.

However, the reason for contacting you is primarily because the 'Stumpy' needs the frame bearings renewed, particularly the Shock LInkage. Instead of booking in to my nearby Specialized Dealer, I would like to do the work myself. Also, the previous time when all the bearings were replaced it was expensive. I see that I can purchase the full set of (12) bearings from a number of reliable suppliers (costing £20-30), or Cyclestore who offer the bearings, spacers (cup) etc @ £69.99. Not sure whether I'll need to replace the spacers? I guess I'll know more once I strip it all apart. As you probably guess, I know it needs overhauling again because of the movement, particularly where the Fox Triad shock links when lifting under the saddle.

I have been looking for decent 'Extractor/Fitting' tools, rather than improvising with sockets and a vice. They can be expensive, as you probably know. However, I think I might have discovered a low cost tool company, namely Superstar Components Ltd ( they're currently considering the Stumpy Frame Schematic, complete with detailed dimensions etc) who will let me know shortly whether their £17.00 Bearing Extractor/Fitting tools are suitable.

Can you kindly let me know how you went about the bearing replacement work? Obviously, I realise there's always
the 'Socket and Vice' potential solution, but I prefer the right tools if poss. Plus, as you can probably tell I love the bike.

I guess after 8 years it might also be smart to replace some, if not all of the Pivot and Axle Bolts, complete set £40.

Hope you can help.

Happy riding


Regards



Chris Lynch

ilovedirt

I think you'll be lucky to get a reply out of the OP, considering how long this thread has been inactive, though hopefully I can help.

Bike linkages are pretty simple, get stripping it down and have a look at the bearings. cartridge bearings will have the bearing codes stamped onto the rubber seals, so you should just be able to read them off without even removing them. Once you know the codes, buy the new ones from somewhere like simplybearings or bearingsrus (online shops), you can get them for about £2 each, or a little more if you go for enduro ones (recommended).

If you can't read the codes (likely if they're 8 years old) get a hammer and a suitable drift - a socket, or even just a big flat blade screwdriver and knock them out from the back. You don't need to be too careful, but try to tap them out so that they come out fairly straight. Once they're out, you can just use a caliper to measure the inside and outside diameters and stick those into the bearing supplier of your choice. Once you've found the codes on there, you can buy your presses from superstar. They're very useful for fitting bearings. Some big washers and other hollow things are useful too - once you have one or two presses and/or some threaded bar, you can usually improvise something for most other bearings, so long as you're pressing on the outer race.

me-109

OP last visited just yesterday, so maybe he will respond. However, above post says pretty much all you need.

ry1978

Hi, when I changed the bearings a few years ago I removed them using the hammer and screwdriver technique then measured the diameters as stated by ilovedirt. I think i paid a few pounds for all of the bearings direct from a bearing supplier locally. The bearings went back in using a socket a vice. No need for presses!

ilovedirt

Ah yes, a bench-mounted vice works well, if you have access to one!