Brake cable silcon protector "sheaf" V brakes
markyd3
Posts: 132
Hi Guys,
I am just servicing my old Shimano V Brakes and need some of the silicon/rubber protective tubing that goes over the cable.
I have no idea what its called but have attached a picture to explain what im on about (circled in pink)... I know its not nessacarily needed but it helps keep dirt out and gives the rubber boot something to grip on to lol
what am i looking for chaps!!????
I am just servicing my old Shimano V Brakes and need some of the silicon/rubber protective tubing that goes over the cable.
I have no idea what its called but have attached a picture to explain what im on about (circled in pink)... I know its not nessacarily needed but it helps keep dirt out and gives the rubber boot something to grip on to lol
what am i looking for chaps!!????
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Comments
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The boot should cover all the cable. Either get a longer boot, extend it a bit or you're running the arms too far apart.0
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Ahhh really?
I didnt realise that!! :oops:
I cant get the arms any closer as the brakes will come on lol but you reckon i should be able to get longer boots?0 -
And that rubber bit should be inside the noodle, not sticking out - buy a new noodle.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
ah so i do still need the rubber sheaf and new noodles ....0
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You can get a noodle with liner and a boot for only a couple of quid....try ebay!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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I have searched on ebay... i can find plenty of noodles but i cannot find the sheaf/liner?0
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The liner comes ready as part of it! You don't by the liner seperate to your brake cables, it's not meant to come out like that!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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The Beginner wrote:The liner comes ready as part of it! You don't by the liner seperate to your brake cables, it's not meant to come out like that!
lol what an idiot!! :oops:
I thought that was a separate part!!!!0 -
As new you'll find it rolled out at each end which should stop it doing what yours has done....
No worries, we all live and learn!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
What are these rubber boots for exactly?0
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To stop crap going into the noodle.
One of the many advantages of disks - it is not possible.0 -
Reading elsewhere, sounds like I don't really need it. Will be cutting it off.
For me the disadvantages outweight the "many advantages"
Got a feeling when I pull the level, I'm going to come to a stop. That's all I'm looking for0 -
That's not the problem with crappy cables (i.e. crap in them) - it is the return of the cable once pulled as the pull has all your hand power, the return relies on small springs which need to separate the pads from the rims equal distance each time which doesn't always happen and results is rub, which is really annoying, along with it exacerbating the smallest out of true in the rim0
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Don't get you?
If I clean muck off my brakes regularly, Do I need these rubber boots? They have nothing to do with returning the brakes after use?0 -
See them as a labour saving device then. This cable is literally in the crap firing line.0
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Short answer - yes.
Long answer, if you want gritty cables and regular replacements - no.
Real answer - obvious troll is obvious.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
V brake setup can be very tricky. But once you get it right i find them really good. The only problem is that they are hard to get perfect as there are a few different ways to change the way they work (spring tensions, toe etc). And they are not great in the wet and after a wet ride they often need a re adjustment of some sort to get the power back. I havent given them a go in the muddy trails where it would be a different story im sure. But in dry weather i find them fantastic. The dustiness of the trails actually helps them get better too. I am going to try some quality pads this summer on my Arrowhead when it has its 6 or so comeback.
The removal of the plastic sleeve in your noodle should not make too great of a difference to the way your brake feels and works. They not only keep the crap out as mentioned but they help reduce friction. Without it, it would be a metal on metal contact and thats not good obviously. You will probably feel the rubbing of the wire on the metal part of the noodle, but in terms of the actual braking power it should not make any difference. You say that you just want it to stop you so thats not a problem.0 -
GT seriously?
Btw, noodles are lined.
Disc brakes are for losers0 -
I think he's confusing the lining in the noodle with the wobbly rubber thing.
The lining is necessary for decent braking, the rubber thingy is useful.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
I know the noodles are lined, i was saying that you can get away with the lining out of the noodle. I took the lining out of a noodle a few years ago when i had a flared cable, so i could get the cable through the noodle easier.
Im not really a big fan of those black rubbery things. If i were riding a bike with v brakes in muddy offroad conditions then id put it on. But otherwise id leave it out. My Raleigh doesnt have one, and its been like that for over a year now and the cable is still corrosion free there.
Just to make sure i know what im talking about here, that circled part in the photo is supposed to be the lining that is inside of the noodle, but has slid out? I have never seen a noodles lining purposely be extended outside of the noodle.
By the way, i just noticed that the pivoting part of the left v brake arm as you look at the picture is far longer than any ive seen or used. Is this an advantage? If you look at mine in the picture that part i am talking about is alot shorter.0 -
Oh, you were.0
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GT-Arrowhead wrote:But otherwise id leave it out. My Raleigh doesnt have one, and its been like that for over a year now and the cable is still corrosion free there. ]Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Lots of term flying around here, I'm talking about getting rid of this
That's OK, isn't it?
The noodle seems to be that bent pipe thing (what is this for exactly?)
All the rubber boot thing does is keep mud from going in the noodle? Which wouldn't affect performance anyway?0 -
This has all been answered.0
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The noodle is the still tube, the silicon sleeve (which is clear) sits inside it, that pic is of the gaiter, the brakes will function without it unless they get crudded up, the wire is directly above the tyre and every time you pull on the brakes some crud is drawn into the sleeve inside the noodle.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0