Paris to Florence

eyrewave

Hello, im planning a ride from Paris to Florence over around 12-14 days in June this year.
I have a good look around the web for suggested routes, and the best place to cross the Alps... :shock:
Ive heard that that France can be really hilly, lots of up and downs, especially in the Grand Masif area.
Im looking for nice scenery, and the easiest route, as i figure that riding 60+ miles a day will be challenge enough.
Anyone have any experience of any nice routes from Paris over the Alps and into Italy?
Any thoughts would be eagerly appreciated. Cheers

Ifriedman

Hi! I am also planning a similar trip but hope to go all the way to Rome. I have not worked out the details of the route yet. I think I am going to take a look at Michelin 1/200000 maps of France but not entirely sure what would be the best way to plan this. Does anyone have any advice?
Thanks!

eyrewave

google maps has a terrain button, dont know if you had spotted that? should help in picking a route

Ifriedman

Thanks, this was helpful! In terms of crossing the alps, you can check out this blog (http://paris2rome.tumblr.com) by a group who biked from Paris to Rome. They cross at St-Maurice and end up in Aosta.

DF33

Yes, used to live near Bourg St maurice. It's hilly up from Bourg, past La Rosier ski resort and down to Aosta town but worth it.
There are other alternatives via Switzerland for example.

culverwood

The Via Francigena route crosses the Alps at the Grand St Bernard Pass which is the one referred to. You start climbing at Martigny nor St Maurice. You could pick up the route at Brienn le Chateau and leave it at Lucca. Here are our notes for that section

Chalon to la Rothiere. We followed minor roads beside the walkers’ route
except where it struck off across country on the Roman road, to la Rothiere,
Auberge de la Plaine. Very little to eat or drink between Chalons and
Brienne. 80km. Terrain: basically flat but not quite.

La Rothiere to Langres. We started along the walker’s route to through a
village called l’Autre Monde to Bar sur Aube. Then via Bricon, Richebourg and
Arc en Barrois to Langres, Hotel de l’ Europe. The route was varied and
picturesque with a kick in the tail in the final climb to Langres which could
not be avoided. Whether it was an easier gradient or the miles in our legs it
did not seem too bad compared to the hills near Calais. One could easily stop
in Arc en Barrois as there is a good hotel there. 96km. Terrain: a little
hillier than yesterday.

Langres to Cussey sur Ognon. We followed the walkers’ route or the minor
roads close by to Seveux then Sigeric’s route to Cussey, La Vielle Auberge.
We stopped for lunch at the first bar on our way into Dampierre and had a
first class low cost no choice menu. We could have stayed in Dampierre but it
was still early afternoon. Very good cycling country again. 90km but
practically no accommodation in last 40 km. Terrain: similar to yesterday
without the killer hill at the end.

Cussey sur Ognon to Pontarlier. One of the best days. If we had had more
time we would have stopped in Besancon, another city like Reims strangled by
its road network, and will another time. This time we went through the town
and up the steep slopes to la Veze. Here we diverted from the route and went
via Ornans and the Valley of la Loue. Just after Ornans we stopped for a break
at a canoe / climbing centre beside the river with ropes and ladders for
children of all ages including the grown up ones. We had lost a lot of height
going down into the valley and had a long climb up through the Gorge at the
end but it was worth it, fantastic scenery. We joined the N57 at the end but
should have gone via Ouhans and minor roads to Pontarlier, Hotel le St Pierre.
75km. Terrain: mountainous but worth it.

Pontarlier to Yverdon. After yesterday we were worried about another big
climb but it was an anti climax. Yes there was a climb to St Croix but it
seemed like less than yesterday followed by a very steep drop. If you look at
a relief map of the region it is like a wedge of cheese a long rise up to St
Croix from Besancon. 45km. Terrain: up and down.

Ste Croix to Lausanne
Slowly down this time (unfortunately my photos for this bit show a pink sky and do
not do the view justice) and the view across Lake Neuchatel and over to Lake
Geneva are spectacular. The quiet country roads were ideal for cycling and we
stopped at Orbe for a break. After Orbe we took the route via La Sarraz,
Cossonay and Vufflens la Ville to Lausanne where I had booked a room at the
Hotel de la Paix in the centre of town (I had plenty of Airmiles to use up).
65km. Terrain: Downhill then gently rolling countryside.

Lausanne to St Maurice
After visit to the Cathedral a late start and a trip to the bike shop (Bron’s
bike had a wheel out of true) we started our journey around the lake. It was
the Triathalon World Championship in Lausanne that day and the route started
with a swim in the lake followed by a run and cycle the lake front so many
paths were closed but there was much excitement.
Eventually we found the lake front and cycled on the paths much of the way
around, stopping for a break in Vevey. At Villeneuve there was some kind of
hang glider / microlite festival and we stopped to watch the daredevils do
loops on their mini gliders and land on a small pontoon in the lake. In the
Rhone valley there are two cycle-paths down either side of the valley which
you can follow all the way to Martigny on almost traffic free hard paths. We
chose Route 1 and could have followed it all the way from Lausanne. We
arrived in St Maurice and found there was a music festival at the Abbey so no
room for us. We got a room at the Hotel la Dent- du-Midi and returned to the
Abbey to catch the end of the concert., a wonderful organ piece and the encore
a beautiful soprano accompanied by cello.
62km. Terrain: Flat.

St Maurice to Orsieres
There was more cycling along Route 1 to Martigny this time much of the way
along the Rhone itself. We stopped at a village fete/farmers market at
Dorenaz which was bringing in people from all the local villages and got to
Martigny by late morning. The cycling from Martigny to Orsieres was OK the
road gently sloping and in most places reasonably wide or with a shoulder to
cycle on. We stopped at Orsieres where we stayed the night at the Hotel Terminus
opposite the train station.
45km. Terrain: Flat then rising

Aosta to Pont St Martin
We meant to go over the top of the Great St Bernard Pass and down to
Aosta today but the weather was so bad and we did not want to risk things
getting up or down and we would not have been able to see anything.
We stayed on the bus through the tunnel and got off at Aosta. The ride down
from Aosta to Pont St Martin was preparation for much of the rest of the
journey much of which is on main roads some with decent hard shoulders some
not. There were some good views and we followed a group of rafters going down
the river for a section. We stay the night in the Hotel Ponte Romano on the
square by the bridge.
53km. Terrain: Generally downhill.

Pont St Martin to Vercelli
A fairly easy day. Ivrea looks to be an interesting town but we bypass it on the
cobbled streets and continue to Lake Viverone. There is a little hill just
after the lake we were not expecting but soon after the Big Pilgrim at the
roundabout at Viverone itself you get to Santhia and after that the rice
paddies start. Hurray! It is dead flat just about all the way to Pavia from
there. We get to Vercelli quite early but find it difficult to find a room
and the tourist office is shut. We come across two Italian girls starting
their VF in Vercelli and eventually find a room in the Albergo Croce di Malta
which looks like a building that was once very nice but which is soon to be
demolished. Vercelli is a handsome with wide tree lined boulevards and
funnily we do not have much trouble with mosquitoes here or anywhere else.
72km. Terrain: Flat.

Vercelli to Pavia
A very flat day we stop for a Cappuccino and cake in Mortara and get to Pavia
early and again begin our room search. This time we find some space in the
Hotel Excelsior near the station. We spend the afternoon and evening
wandering the streets of the old town and seeing the sights such as the
covered bridge and the duomo which is being restored. We have noticed that at
the cafes here and for much of the rest of the journey if you order a drink in
the evening you get a great deal to eat for free like tapas.
81km. Terrain: Flat.

Pavia to Piacenza
On our way out of Pavia we see a sign to Bron and as it seems not far off the
route we decide to go that way. Bron turns out to be a quiet town and we do
not hang around and are back on the road to Piacenza. We cycle into the
centre of town and find the tourist office and get a special rate at the Hotel
Ovest back on the inner ring road. After dropping everything at the hotel we
go back into town which is very civilised and being a Monday with a little
more life than Pavia.
75km. Terrain: Not quite so flat.

Piacenza to Fornovo di Taro
Up until now the roads have had decent hard shoulders and the towns very good
cycle lanes. This is where things change. The road to Fidenza is flat enough
but the traffic is very bad and there is little or no hard shoulder. We are
glad to get onto the quieter roads between there and Medesamo. It is the end
of fiesta in Fornovo and knowing there was not much accommodation we booked
ahead at an Agro-tourismo out of town on the way up the pass. The Casa del
Viole at Sivizzano is a very nice place on the Fornovo Bardone road but does
not do dinner and ther is nowhere else around so we survive on the food they
have provided for breakfast.
69km. Terrain: Flattish then rolling hills

Fornovo di Taro to Pontremoli
A traumatic day. We set off up to the pass and get as far as Bardonne when
Bronwyn falls from her bike luckily the fall is onto a plant covered section
of the verge but she stays down. A large group of Italian men surround us and
one of them calls the Ambulance. By the time the ambulance complete with
doctor arrives Bron is up battered and bruised but with no bones broken and
thankful that she had her helmet on. The doctor tells her to take things easy
and arranges the Social Services bus to take us to Berceto. We are there by
mid morning and the weather seems as good as it is going to get so by lunch
time we decide to go over the pass in case it gets worse tomorrow. We are out
of the cloud until near the top and the gradient up from Berceto is easy as it
is down the other side to Pontremoli where we get a room at the Hotel Napoleon
the most overpriced least friendly hotel of out tour. Pontremoli has an
interesting old town and the Cathedral there is unexpectedly impressive.
40km. Terrain: Steep uphill initially then reasonable gradient, easy downhill
gradient.

Pontremoli to Lucca
A long but easy day. We cycle down the valley to Sarzana along the flattish
but narrow main road and from there take the coastal route via Marina del
Carrara and Forte di Marmi. We stay on the road one back from the front which
is very pleasantly shaded and much quieter and pass some expensive hotels,
villas and shops before turning inland along a cycle path by the road to
Pietrasanta. As time is getting on we book our hotel in Luca there it is a
single room but we are assured it is big enough. The Tour of Tuscany is
taking place so we cannot go through Camaiore so we stay on the main road and
a nasty hill at the end of the day just before Lucca. Our room in Lucca is at
the Hotel Ilara (one used by Inntravel who have never let us down) and the
single is plenty big enough and overlooks the Villa Bottoni. Just as we cycle
up the road to the hotel after 106 km I hear a hissing noise and notice my
front wheel has punctured, less than 50m from our destination.
106km. Terrain: Downhill then flat until after Pietrasanta then hilly and
flat final part.

eyrewave

Hey thats great!! thanks so much

eyrewave

culverwood wrote:

The Via Francigena route crosses the Alps at the Grand St Bernard Pass which is the one referred to. You start climbing at Martigny nor St Maurice. You could pick up the route at Brienn le Chateau and leave it at Lucca. Here are our notes for that section

Chalon to la Rothiere. We followed minor roads beside the walkers’ route
except where it struck off across country on the Roman road, to la Rothiere,
Auberge de la Plaine. Very little to eat or drink between Chalons and
Brienne. 80km. Terrain: basically flat but not quite.

La Rothiere to Langres. We started along the walker’s route to through a
village called l’Autre Monde to Bar sur Aube. Then via Bricon, Richebourg and
Arc en Barrois to Langres, Hotel de l’ Europe. The route was varied and
picturesque with a kick in the tail in the final climb to Langres which could
not be avoided. Whether it was an easier gradient or the miles in our legs it
did not seem too bad compared to the hills near Calais. One could easily stop
in Arc en Barrois as there is a good hotel there. 96km. Terrain: a little
hillier than yesterday.

Langres to Cussey sur Ognon. We followed the walkers’ route or the minor
roads close by to Seveux then Sigeric’s route to Cussey, La Vielle Auberge.
We stopped for lunch at the first bar on our way into Dampierre and had a
first class low cost no choice menu. We could have stayed in Dampierre but it
was still early afternoon. Very good cycling country again. 90km but
practically no accommodation in last 40 km. Terrain: similar to yesterday
without the killer hill at the end.

Cussey sur Ognon to Pontarlier. One of the best days. If we had had more
time we would have stopped in Besancon, another city like Reims strangled by
its road network, and will another time. This time we went through the town
and up the steep slopes to la Veze. Here we diverted from the route and went
via Ornans and the Valley of la Loue. Just after Ornans we stopped for a break
at a canoe / climbing centre beside the river with ropes and ladders for
children of all ages including the grown up ones. We had lost a lot of height
going down into the valley and had a long climb up through the Gorge at the
end but it was worth it, fantastic scenery. We joined the N57 at the end but
should have gone via Ouhans and minor roads to Pontarlier, Hotel le St Pierre.
75km. Terrain: mountainous but worth it.

Pontarlier to Yverdon. After yesterday we were worried about another big
climb but it was an anti climax. Yes there was a climb to St Croix but it
seemed like less than yesterday followed by a very steep drop. If you look at
a relief map of the region it is like a wedge of cheese a long rise up to St
Croix from Besancon. 45km. Terrain: up and down.

Ste Croix to Lausanne
Slowly down this time (unfortunately my photos for this bit show a pink sky and do
not do the view justice) and the view across Lake Neuchatel and over to Lake
Geneva are spectacular. The quiet country roads were ideal for cycling and we
stopped at Orbe for a break. After Orbe we took the route via La Sarraz,
Cossonay and Vufflens la Ville to Lausanne where I had booked a room at the
Hotel de la Paix in the centre of town (I had plenty of Airmiles to use up).
65km. Terrain: Downhill then gently rolling countryside.

Lausanne to St Maurice
After visit to the Cathedral a late start and a trip to the bike shop (Bron’s
bike had a wheel out of true) we started our journey around the lake. It was
the Triathalon World Championship in Lausanne that day and the route started
with a swim in the lake followed by a run and cycle the lake front so many
paths were closed but there was much excitement.
Eventually we found the lake front and cycled on the paths much of the way
around, stopping for a break in Vevey. At Villeneuve there was some kind of
hang glider / microlite festival and we stopped to watch the daredevils do
loops on their mini gliders and land on a small pontoon in the lake. In the
Rhone valley there are two cycle-paths down either side of the valley which
you can follow all the way to Martigny on almost traffic free hard paths. We
chose Route 1 and could have followed it all the way from Lausanne. We
arrived in St Maurice and found there was a music festival at the Abbey so no
room for us. We got a room at the Hotel la Dent- du-Midi and returned to the
Abbey to catch the end of the concert., a wonderful organ piece and the encore
a beautiful soprano accompanied by cello.
62km. Terrain: Flat.

St Maurice to Orsieres
There was more cycling along Route 1 to Martigny this time much of the way
along the Rhone itself. We stopped at a village fete/farmers market at
Dorenaz which was bringing in people from all the local villages and got to
Martigny by late morning. The cycling from Martigny to Orsieres was OK the
road gently sloping and in most places reasonably wide or with a shoulder to
cycle on. We stopped at Orsieres where we stayed the night at the Hotel Terminus
opposite the train station.
45km. Terrain: Flat then rising

Aosta to Pont St Martin
We meant to go over the top of the Great St Bernard Pass and down to
Aosta today but the weather was so bad and we did not want to risk things
getting up or down and we would not have been able to see anything.
We stayed on the bus through the tunnel and got off at Aosta. The ride down
from Aosta to Pont St Martin was preparation for much of the rest of the
journey much of which is on main roads some with decent hard shoulders some
not. There were some good views and we followed a group of rafters going down
the river for a section. We stay the night in the Hotel Ponte Romano on the
square by the bridge.
53km. Terrain: Generally downhill.

Pont St Martin to Vercelli
A fairly easy day. Ivrea looks to be an interesting town but we bypass it on the
cobbled streets and continue to Lake Viverone. There is a little hill just
after the lake we were not expecting but soon after the Big Pilgrim at the
roundabout at Viverone itself you get to Santhia and after that the rice
paddies start. Hurray! It is dead flat just about all the way to Pavia from
there. We get to Vercelli quite early but find it difficult to find a room
and the tourist office is shut. We come across two Italian girls starting
their VF in Vercelli and eventually find a room in the Albergo Croce di Malta
which looks like a building that was once very nice but which is soon to be
demolished. Vercelli is a handsome with wide tree lined boulevards and
funnily we do not have much trouble with mosquitoes here or anywhere else.
72km. Terrain: Flat.

Vercelli to Pavia
A very flat day we stop for a Cappuccino and cake in Mortara and get to Pavia
early and again begin our room search. This time we find some space in the
Hotel Excelsior near the station. We spend the afternoon and evening
wandering the streets of the old town and seeing the sights such as the
covered bridge and the duomo which is being restored. We have noticed that at
the cafes here and for much of the rest of the journey if you order a drink in
the evening you get a great deal to eat for free like tapas.
81km. Terrain: Flat.

Pavia to Piacenza
On our way out of Pavia we see a sign to Bron and as it seems not far off the
route we decide to go that way. Bron turns out to be a quiet town and we do
not hang around and are back on the road to Piacenza. We cycle into the
centre of town and find the tourist office and get a special rate at the Hotel
Ovest back on the inner ring road. After dropping everything at the hotel we
go back into town which is very civilised and being a Monday with a little
more life than Pavia.
75km. Terrain: Not quite so flat.

Piacenza to Fornovo di Taro
Up until now the roads have had decent hard shoulders and the towns very good
cycle lanes. This is where things change. The road to Fidenza is flat enough
but the traffic is very bad and there is little or no hard shoulder. We are
glad to get onto the quieter roads between there and Medesamo. It is the end
of fiesta in Fornovo and knowing there was not much accommodation we booked
ahead at an Agro-tourismo out of town on the way up the pass. The Casa del
Viole at Sivizzano is a very nice place on the Fornovo Bardone road but does
not do dinner and ther is nowhere else around so we survive on the food they
have provided for breakfast.
69km. Terrain: Flattish then rolling hills

Fornovo di Taro to Pontremoli
A traumatic day. We set off up to the pass and get as far as Bardonne when
Bronwyn falls from her bike luckily the fall is onto a plant covered section
of the verge but she stays down. A large group of Italian men surround us and
one of them calls the Ambulance. By the time the ambulance complete with
doctor arrives Bron is up battered and bruised but with no bones broken and
thankful that she had her helmet on. The doctor tells her to take things easy
and arranges the Social Services bus to take us to Berceto. We are there by
mid morning and the weather seems as good as it is going to get so by lunch
time we decide to go over the pass in case it gets worse tomorrow. We are out
of the cloud until near the top and the gradient up from Berceto is easy as it
is down the other side to Pontremoli where we get a room at the Hotel Napoleon
the most overpriced least friendly hotel of out tour. Pontremoli has an
interesting old town and the Cathedral there is unexpectedly impressive.
40km. Terrain: Steep uphill initially then reasonable gradient, easy downhill
gradient.

Pontremoli to Lucca
A long but easy day. We cycle down the valley to Sarzana along the flattish
but narrow main road and from there take the coastal route via Marina del
Carrara and Forte di Marmi. We stay on the road one back from the front which
is very pleasantly shaded and much quieter and pass some expensive hotels,
villas and shops before turning inland along a cycle path by the road to
Pietrasanta. As time is getting on we book our hotel in Luca there it is a
single room but we are assured it is big enough. The Tour of Tuscany is
taking place so we cannot go through Camaiore so we stay on the main road and
a nasty hill at the end of the day just before Lucca. Our room in Lucca is at
the Hotel Ilara (one used by Inntravel who have never let us down) and the
single is plenty big enough and overlooks the Villa Bottoni. Just as we cycle
up the road to the hotel after 106 km I hear a hissing noise and notice my
front wheel has punctured, less than 50m from our destination.
106km. Terrain: Downhill then flat until after Pietrasanta then hilly and
flat final part.

How did you rate the trip? was there anything you would do differently? what were the essentials you'd recomend not being without? I plan on Paris to Florence in 10-14 days. Do you think this is realistic? Im moderately fit and do around 100 miles a week, but will build training with 3 months to go.
Really appreciate your thoughts as you have done it !!!

culverwood

I do not think that you will have any problem. In many places the length of the day is a decision based on what town you want to stay in as it is generally better to stay in the bigger towns as there is more to see and do. One place I was sad to have missed was Besancon but that is with the benefit of hindsight. With respect to the St Bernard Pass section if the weather is good it is a pleasant ride once you get off the main road but the galleried sections before the road splits are not so nice, if you are on a mountain bike it would be possible to walk/cycle around the lake and avoid the section between Bourg St Pierre and the split.

We were on 26 inch wheeled touring bikes so were able to take to tracks but on this ride it was nearly all on road. The only sections that will slow you down are the Jura which as a couple of smaller climbs, Alps one big one and Apennines one medium one otherwise it is fairly fast cycling and depending on how much you avoid main roads or not the route you could shorten our route.

I would rate the trip as a very good with many interesting towns and some great scenery. As we were credit card touring and staying in hotels or b&bs there was not much extra than one would take on a long weekend cycling. I always carry an excessive number of inner tubes and on this route at least two water bottles and we also used Camelbacks.

andymiller

There is an extremely useful resource here:

http://www.bicitalia.org/cakebi/

You might, possibly, want to consider going via Switzerland if you want to add to your choice of crossing points.

Bear in mind that as well as the Alps you need to cross the Appenines.