Fixed gear - Sprocket change - Gearing Advice

Afternoon all,
I currently ride a 2012 Langster on a 48t x 15t chainring-sprocket combo (= 84.4" gear). Whilst I am perfectly capable of doing my commute with this gear I can't help but feel it might be a little easier on my knees / more helpful with my cadence and technique to up the sprocket size. Also quite fancy a change and it's cheaper than a new bike!
So, do I go:
1) 48t x 16t (79.1") - Equates to a 6.3% reduction in gearing.
2) 48t x 17t (74.5") - Equates to an 11.73% reduction in gearing.
I am minded to go for the 17t option, but am interested to hear views - Is a near 12% change in gearing too much? Will I find the one or two descents on my route more tricky? (I ride with f/brake, so no great shakes). I quite fancy bit more spin.
My rear wheel is in middle of dropout at 15t - Will I have enough chain for 17t?
(What would you buy, and from where?)
Thanks for any info and views.
Jamie.
I currently ride a 2012 Langster on a 48t x 15t chainring-sprocket combo (= 84.4" gear). Whilst I am perfectly capable of doing my commute with this gear I can't help but feel it might be a little easier on my knees / more helpful with my cadence and technique to up the sprocket size. Also quite fancy a change and it's cheaper than a new bike!
So, do I go:
1) 48t x 16t (79.1") - Equates to a 6.3% reduction in gearing.
2) 48t x 17t (74.5") - Equates to an 11.73% reduction in gearing.
I am minded to go for the 17t option, but am interested to hear views - Is a near 12% change in gearing too much? Will I find the one or two descents on my route more tricky? (I ride with f/brake, so no great shakes). I quite fancy bit more spin.
My rear wheel is in middle of dropout at 15t - Will I have enough chain for 17t?
(What would you buy, and from where?)
Thanks for any info and views.
Jamie.
0
Posts
You'll want about 1/2 and inch for the reduced chain.
Carbon 456
456 lefty
Pompino
White Inbred
Not being a pedant, want to make sure I understand you correctly - When you say "Need half and inch", do you mean 1/2" of available forwards movement in the horizontal dropouts?
(Re skids - I've ridden fixed gear bikes for 3yrs+ and not skidded once, I had a 2007 Langster before this. :oops: )
Does the brand matter much in terms of quality/longevity/corrosion?
Changed from 48/15 to 48/17. No downsides - More spinny, easier climbing and still high enough to spin downhill. Got a 17t cog from Condor reduced from £15 to a tenner.
Thanks for help.
Or I am missing some real basic fundamental facts. I mean you're on a 20" BMX wheel right? You have 500PSi tyres on, right?
No you're probably using a 700c wheel.
48F/15R which you were originally on, means the back wheel span 3.2 times for one full (360 degree) pedal turn.
To get 3.2 turns I would have to have it on something like the biggest chainring (50T) and the 16T on the back, which is almost the highest gear. That gives a slightly lower gear than you had, 3.125.
So you mean to tell me you ride around in what amounts to almost the highest gear on a road bike, everywhere you go?
I am just speechless at this point... I wouldn't even get up a 2% incline in that gear. I would have to be pushing as hard as possible to even get in that gear at all on the flat, it would be like HIIT to me and I would last literally 30 seconds tops before having to stop.
How on earth are people THAT strong?
Its not that I don't believe you I just think this is absolutely insane. :P
I would say the 74 inch option would be the best of the options that you have suggested. Of course I would go a bit smaller.
Riding single speed for me is about efficiency and enjoying it whilst getting to work quick. 70 inch gear works great for this.
really love it, great for cruising on flats & awesome for sprinting up short climbs
the only downside is i spin out on one of my descents hence single over fixed