Front wheel flex

tudj
tudj Posts: 254
edited January 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Over my last few rides I've noticed my front tire rubbing on the inside of the fork, I noticed with my weight over the front (even when just pedaling out of the saddle) the wheel moves around and this is causing the tire to rub. Is this likely to be a problem with the forks or the wheel? How would I find which is at fault? Is it even a fault, could it be because it's QR instead of through-axle? I'm not particularly heavy, about 13st at the moment and the forks are at the higher end of the recommended pressure for my weight.

The bike is a Giant Talon 1 with stock wheels/tires.

The forks are Recon Silver TK Solo Air from 2011, bought new a couple of months ago.

Can anyone suggest what I need to look at?

Thanks in advance

Comments

  • Checked the spoke tension?
  • tudj
    tudj Posts: 254
    I haven't. Do you mean just checking if any spoke are obviously loose or is there more to it? It might be a daft question but when you don't know, you don't know :P
  • Pretty much! Have a general squeeze/twiddle of the spokes, sounds to me like they could need re-tensioning.

    If the front seems loose, get the rear checked too!
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Check the QR skewer is done up properly too. If it is, consider changing it for a Shimano one.
  • dusk
    dusk Posts: 583
    could be a combination of issues but I had a similar problem when I had a Specialized rockhopper, a new (better) wheel sorted the problem for me but that's expensive if you're not positive that's what's wrong
    YT Wicked 160 ltd
    Cotic BFe
    DMR Trailstar
    Canyon Roadlite
  • oodboo
    oodboo Posts: 2,171
    Try a shimano Qr in it first.
    I love horses, best of all the animals. I love horses, they're my friends.

    Strava
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Turn the wheel round - if it still rubs the same size then it's a fork problem, if it rubs the other side/solves the issue it's a wheel problem.
  • tudj
    tudj Posts: 254
    Could the QR be a likely factor? I've just remember the one on the front wheel was purchased in an emergency from halfords when I managed to turn up to a ride without my front axle :P

    I think I have a spare, I'm sure one came with my Canyon which arrived yesterday, I'll try swapping them over and see if there's a difference. I'll check the spokes before I do that.

    Thanks for the help so far!
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Yes, poor skewers that don't clamp properly are a prime reason.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Remove wheel and check for sideways play on the axle to hub....

    But check the QR first.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • 97th choice
    97th choice Posts: 2,222
    Check the QR and that the wheel is seated correctly, then grab the top of the tyre and see how much lateral movement you have in the wheel. Your hub bearings could be completely shot.
    Too-ra-loo-ra, too-ra-loo-rye, aye

    Giant Trance
    Radon ZR 27.5 Race
    Btwin Alur700
    Merida CX500
  • tudj
    tudj Posts: 254
    So I had a look at the wheel, the spokes are fine as far as I can tell, they are all tensioned and have no free movement. I suspect the problem may lie with the hub/axle, I think it's a cone-and-cup type and the nuts on either side were loose, loose enough that I could move them by hand. I've tightened them up properly but I suspect there is still a problem, the axle doesn't turn smoothly within the hub (should it even rotate at all?)

    So, if the axle (the actual axle, not the QR) should turn smoothly then the issue lies with that, I'd guess bearings are gone?

    Cheers
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    With cup and cone hubs it's about getting the balance right - you're aiming to preload the bearings to take out the play, but not clamp everything so tight that the axle doesn't turn - as you've done.

    For the 50p or so involved it's worth putting new bearings in, and have a look on Park Tools or YouTube for guides on properly adjusting them.

    Sounds like the issue though - you shouldn't be able to move the locknuts by hand.
  • tudj
    tudj Posts: 254
    It turns out the whole hub is kaput, my Dad wanted to use the bike while I was away so took it to the LBS for a checkover, initially they found that the bearing was worn, upon fitting a new one they said that whatever it is the bearing sits against is damaged (my words, not theirs I just forgot what it is called), I guess from riding around with a knackered bearing!

    New wheel is on it's way :/

    Thanks all for the help.