2013 CAAD10 Ultegra

paulhino

Frame 58cm

notlongnow

Nice

DHTT

Thats really nice the paint job reminds me of Cannondale Six from a couple of years ago, any chance of a drivetrain photo as well when you can?

napoleond

It's be nice if it was pointing the right way...

fuzzbear

DHTT wrote:

Thats really nice the paint job reminds me of Cannondale Six from a couple of years ago, any chance of a drivetrain photo as well when you can?

What he said.

Very nice..

paulhino

fuzzbear wrote:

DHTT wrote:

Thats really nice the paint job reminds me of Cannondale Six from a couple of years ago, any chance of a drivetrain photo as well when you can?

What he said.

Very nice..

RideOnTime

philvantwo

I wa thinking of getting a cannondale but why oh why do they have to put the name on the downtube as many times as they can seem to get it on, totally spoils the look of the bike for me!

inseine

It's be nice if it was pointing the right way...

and on the big ring......

smidsy

Like the way you took it back to the same spot to re-shoot.

Valves at 6 o'clock next time too.

13jonny

very nice i actually like all the graphics on the down tube

Strith

It looks like you dont have any spacers above the stem. I'd suggest you move at least one of the spacers to above the stem to reduce the (small) risk of the steerer cracking. Otherwise nice bike, not so keen on the paint job, but still nice.

FransJacques

Strith wrote:

It looks like you dont have any spacers above the stem. I'd suggest you move at least one of the spacers to above the stem to reduce the (small) risk of the steerer cracking. Otherwise nice bike, not so keen on the paint job, but still nice.

"at least one". Is that the formula then? At least one? It's a nice easy rule of thumb. Did you get that from Sheldon Brown?

The CAAD10 is a nice alternative to a carbon bike but I'm wondering about your stack of spacers is hiding the fact that a) you're not very flexible but aim to improve over this summer, or b) you should not have bought a bike with a 15cm HT and gone for the the Synapse instead.

The above sarcasm aside (sorry can't help it), a highly stacked steerer does make for a wobbly steering system, esp if you decide you like sprinting. It's not a case of the steerer cracking or shearing, but a case of flexing when you don't want it to.

Finally, why the tilted down saddle? Did the shop even fit the bike to you?

Strith

FransJacques wrote:

Strith wrote:

It looks like you dont have any spacers above the stem. I'd suggest you move at least one of the spacers to above the stem to reduce the (small) risk of the steerer cracking. Otherwise nice bike, not so keen on the paint job, but still nice.

"at least one". Is that the formula then? At least one? It's a nice easy rule of thumb. Did you get that from Sheldon Brown?

The CAAD10 is a nice alternative to a carbon bike but I'm wondering about your stack of spacers is hiding the fact that a) you're not very flexible but aim to improve over this summer, or b) you should not have bought a bike with a 15cm HT and gone for the the Synapse instead.

The above sarcasm aside (sorry can't help it), a highly stacked steerer does make for a wobbly steering system, esp if you decide you like sprinting. It's not a case of the steerer cracking or shearing, but a case of flexing when you don't want it to.

Finally, why the tilted down saddle? Did the shop even fit the bike to you?

The reason some manufacturers specify having spacers above the stem is to minimise the chance of the carbon steerer cracking at the very top if the top stem bolt is just above the top of the steerer. This is caused by higher concentrated compressive load at the top of the steerer (if people accidentally overtighten), rather than an even load along the length of the stem/steerer interface.

Cannondale actually say you don't need one because their top cap is supposed to provide the required support, some other manufacturers say the same. However, I suggested he put one there as in my experience (I own a caad10) the top cap supplied with my caad 10 doesn't provide what I would consider enough support i.e. it's not quite a tight enough fit.

Does that help you undertand better? It's difficult to explain any more simply.

TMR

Love it.

Soni

smidsy wrote:

Like the way you took it back to the same spot to re-shoot.

He didn't, he photo shopped it.

Soni

Nice bike, but i thought the 2013 CAAD10 Ultegra was black and white not black and silver?

Like in this photo?

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/can ... e-ec042917

paulhino

Soni wrote:

smidsy wrote:

Like the way you took it back to the same spot to re-shoot.

He didn't, he photo shopped it.

I went back. I ride past the same spot during most of my rides.

paulhino

Soni wrote:

Nice bike, but i thought the 2013 CAAD10 Ultegra was black and white not black and silver?

Like in this photo?

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/can ... e-ec042917

There are 2 colour options.

http://www.cannondale.com/2013/bikes/ro ... e-crankset

Soni

How many miles have you rode?

Have you experienced any problems with the bottom bracket creaking?

Im considering one of these but have read a lot of problems with the bb30 and the shell casing and new framed have been needed....

TheSmithers

Soni wrote:

How many miles have you rode?

Have you experienced any problems with the bottom bracket creaking?

Im considering one of these but have read a lot of problems with the bb30 and the shell casing and new framed have been needed....

I've experienced creaking with the BB30 on my supersix. Took it to my LBS and they just whacked a load of grease in there, put it back together and no more creaking. Not sure if this is the case with the CAAD 10, but with the supersix, I was told the creaking can be caused by spray coming off the back wheel, which gets into the slit like opening on the seat tube where the post goes in. It then runs down the inside of the seat tube into the BB area. Shocking really. I thought these bearings would be completely sealed! With all the wet weather cycling I've been doing recently, the problem is likely to return! :?

Soni

TheSmithers wrote:

Soni wrote:

How many miles have you rode?

Have you experienced any problems with the bottom bracket creaking?

Im considering one of these but have read a lot of problems with the bb30 and the shell casing and new framed have been needed....

I've experienced creaking with the BB30 on my supersix. Took it to my LBS and they just whacked a load of grease in there, put it back together and no more creaking. Not sure if this is the case with the CAAD 10, but with the supersix, I was told the creaking can be caused by spray coming off the back wheel, which gets into the slit like opening on the seat tube where the post goes in. It then runs down the inside of the seat tube into the BB area. Shocking really. I thought these bearings would be completely sealed! With all the wet weather cycling I've been doing recently, the problem is likely to return! :?

Ive had to do that to my Trek 2.5 a couple of times, that doesn't bother me, you can put that down to routine maintenance, its this that bothers me;

www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-743564.html

TheSmithers

My problem was the BB appeared not to be lubricated enough, according to my LBS anyway. Whether this was an oversight by Evans, who originally built and supplied the bike, or a problem that built up over time I can't be sure. Thankfully I don't appear to have an issue with the shell casing, and the noise I got was not the pinging described in the other thread, more a creaking especially when under load. Since I got it sorted nearly two month ago now I haven't had any more problems. Hope it stays that way!

paulhino

Soni wrote:

How many miles have you rode?

Have you experienced any problems with the bottom bracket creaking?

Im considering one of these but have read a lot of problems with the bb30 and the shell casing and new framed have been needed....

I've have done 600 miles on the bike. I did experience a bit of creaking but it just required some greasing.

goosey

I've had trouble with creaking in the BB of my CAAD10 which, as per internet wisdom, I blamed on the bearings. I stripped them, regreased them - end of creaking for fifty miles at least. Stripped it, replaced the bearings - and the creak was back in 100 miles. Then I found the non-drive crank arm is working slightly loose. Leaning on the bolt with a 2 foot torque wrench solved the problem for 900 miles. Then it started creaking again and once again I found some room to tighten up the crank nut. So stripping and regreasing the bearings was curing the problem - but only because it involved refitting and tightening the crank nut. It's an FSA SLK chainset.