Veloce rear hub cartridge bearing removal

RupertRobertson Posts: 8
edited July 2014 in Workshop
We've got several Campagnolo Veloce pairs of shiny alloy hubs.

How can I remove the cartridge bearings on the rear hub?

When the freewheel and axle are removed exposing the cartridge bearings there doesn't appear to be any way of extracting them as the overall diameter is the same all the way through. This means that you can't tap them out by using a large screwdriver and hammer (gently) from behind in the normal way.

Thank you in advance - they're great looking hubs and fitting new cartridges should be reasonably straightforward.

Rupert Robertson


  • Campagnolo hubs are not cartridge bearings
    left the forum March 2023
  • Thank you for your reply. How do we remove the bearings on the rear hub to replace them or service them as needed?
    (The front hub is traditional cup and ball bearings). Rupert
  • google

    campagnolo repository hubs and have a look at the exploded diagrams...
    left the forum March 2023
  • Have a look at the diagram here:


    Given that Fulcrum wheels are just a branding exercise by Campagnolo, there's a good chance that your hub internals are the same/similar to Racing 5 / 7 wheels. You should be able to push the central spacer (R5-008 in the diagram) sideways with a screwdriver to expose some of the bearing surface so that you can then drift it out. That's how I do it on my Racing 5s. The central spacer is only held in place by the friction of the bearings at each end pressing on it.

    When you press the new bearings back in, you'll need to use a draw bar of a diameter close to the main spindle so that the spacer is properly in line with the bearings or else you won't get the spindle back in once you've pressed the two bearings home. I use some M12 threaded studding and a couple of 1/2" drive sockets to press on the outer race of the new bearings - don't be tempted to press the bearings in using the inner race or to strike them in - you'll only damage them by doing that.
    "The Flying Scot"
    Commute - Boardman CXR 9.4 Di2
    Sunday Best - Canyon Ultimate SLX Disc w/ DuraAce Di2
  • Thank you both very much. I have followed the links that you both provided and will try moving the central spacer (R5-008) to provide access to remove the bearings.
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Use a small diameter drift and you should be able to move the central spacer tube over slightly to allow you to engage the edge of the bearing. A few light taps around the edge should start to get it on it's way.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • Rebuilding a 2000 - 2002 "Sealed" Campagnolo cassette and need to take it appart for repairs?

    8 speedhub options available from Campagnolo around the late 90's early 2000's were the "Exa-Drive Cassette . The Exa-Drive came in two types, the 261 gram FH-20MI "Mirage" and the 268g FH-20AV "Avanti".

    9 speed "cassette" hub options available from Campagnolo around the late 90's early 2000's were the "Veloce" rear hub (FH-09VL) weighing 457 grams, the 288g "Record" FH-19RE, 438g "Chorus" FH-19CH and 457g "Athena" FH-09VL.

    All of the weights given including the quick release.

    Some of the Campy hubs from this period were manufactured with either a "dual bearing inner / single bearing outer" (the 9 speed cassettes) or a "single bearing inner / single bearing outer" design (the 8 speed Exa-Drive cassettes) for the casette.

    The part numbers of the "sealed" bearings used in the cassette are easy to identify!

    Use a curved hook pick or a long needle to pry the rubber bearing seal out of the outer bearing. Insert the needle thru the ratchet pawl end of the cassette and remove the rubber bearing seal from that bearing as well.

    Clean any grease off the rubber seals and, using a magnifying glass, inspect the seals for any molded in numbers.

    If the rubber seals have the exact same part number then the cassette is of the "Single / Single" bearing type.

    If the rubber seals have different part numbers then the cassette is of the "Double / Single" bearing type.

    BOTH styles of cassette use a retaining ring to hold the inner bearing in place to keep it from migrating under load when in use. This ring may be a common "internal snap-ring" that you can use long nose snap ring pliers to remove or it may be a spiral ring.

    When these original cassettes were manufactured, the ratchet pawl holder (made of steel) was not attached to the splined sprocket carrier. This allowed the snap ring to be inserted and then the bearings were installed from their respective ends BEFORE the pawl holder was screwed to the sprocket carrier.

    There would have been a torque value for this assy and they may have been "locktighted" together. Either way, to disassemble the cassette and replace the bearings in a manner similar to the original assembly requires two special (and probably expensive) wrenches plus some heat from a propane torch and some penetrating fluid to be used to do the job the "right way".

    There is another way to dis-assemble the cassette... if you use care and are patient in the work you are going to perform.. and you MUST remove the outer bearing first before you can access the inner bearing.

    What follows is how the dis-assembly of the cassette can be done by anyone in a home workshop.

    To remove the outer bearing:

    1 - Place the cassette outer end (spline end) down on a flat metal surface (so you do not marr the face of the cassette splines)

    2 - Locate a deep socket that will "Just Fit" (but not jam tight) into the inner end (pawl end) of the cassette and engage the inside race of the inner bearing.

    3 - Using a flat faced hammer, strike the socket hard enough to "just dislodge" the inner bearing race of the inner bearing.

    4 - By dislodging the inner race of the inner bearing you will force it outwards and apply pressure on the outer bearing, and allowing the spacer between the two bearings to have some room to move.

    5 - Take the deep socket out and replace it with a long ⅛" diameter chisel point punch.

    6 - Use the chisel point punch to find the ratchet carrier's - the outer bearing - "outer race" and then tap gently around that race using the chisel point punch and a hammer until the bearing pops free. Do not just hammer on one side of the bearing or you can crack the cassettte.

    7 - Once the outer bearing and the spacer have been removed, clean out all the grease that is in there and then look into the cassette and see what kind of snap ring is present.

    ALL styles of snap ring are removeable, you need to have the right tool and understand how the ring works. snap rings using reglar snap ring pliers are easy. circular spiral rings will need the end coaxed out with a fine point standard screwdriver. a circular split ring will need a fine point flat screwdriver with a slight hook on the blade to get under the end of the ring.

    8 - Once the snap ring is out, use the ⅛" diameter chisel point punch and a hammer to gently tap around the circumference of the ratchet end's bearing "outer race" and gradually work it out of the cassette.

    9 - To install new bearings you need to insert them one at a time from the open end of the cassette. use a large diameter socket that will "just enter" the cassette to install them. If you haven't got a bearing press handy, sandwiching the cassette / bearing / socket in the jaws of a large vise (remember to pad the vice jaws so they dont marr the cassette surfaces!) and then slowly tightening the vise to apply even pressure works very well. Just use care and be attentive that you don't bottom out the bearings and damage them as you insert them.

    10 - The cassette build up is the reverse of the removal - dont forget the snap ring! and if you want, you can remove the rubber seals and clean/ re-lube the bearings with a grease of your choice BEFORE you install them. Do not over lube, and just pop the seals back on once you are done OR you can leave the seals off all together and have a cassette that you can clean, inspect and repack from time to time for extended life.

    If you want to go the route of having unsealed bearings, leave the rubber seals off the bearing faces that you cannot get at once the cassette is assembled. You can remove the "visible" seals and replace them any time you want once the cassette is re-assembled and this option gives a water / dirt seal and allows for cleaning and repacking.

    I recommend using a water proof, high tack - high temp grease to lube the bearings. Water proof high temp greases won't wash out or run out when they get warm / hot from heavy use. A small tube of waterproof hi-temp marine grease used in outboard motors will work just fine.

    The bearings I need for the repair that I am doing are both P/n 61901 - SP as indicated on the seal (the bearing seal also had "CQL/SP" embossed on it, this was the manufacturer of these particular bearings) these are 24 mm OD, 12mm ID and 6mm thick bearings. I google searched for the bearing by using only the number "61901" and the word "bearing".

    These bearings are available in a whole range of styles.. everything from regular steel, stainless steel to ceramic.. prices from 12$ for a pack of ten ( really cheap ones) to abt 7$ each for regular type bearings all the way to almost 100$ each for ceramic bearings.

    My cut away drawings of the 8 and 9 speed Campagnolo cassettes are available at ... ement.html
  • gaddster
    gaddster Posts: 401
    Just got to say that's a quality first post..
    "Hello oh great one"
    "Are you talking to me or my ass?"