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Disc rotor fouling brake post mount....

rolf_frolf_f Posts: 16,015
edited January 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Hello folks

Building up a new frame (Orange Crush - parts swap from a P7). On fitting the rear wheel (Deore hub), I found that the brake disc (Shimano XT) fouls the post mount - not a lot but even not a lot isn't right!

This seems to mean that I need a deeper retaining nut for the cones on the non drive side (and vice versa) or an extra washer and a tighter fit for the wheel in the dropouts. This seems a bit odd though - I'd assume that the placement of the post mounts would always allow clearance for the discs as these are surely fixed standards. Is this just something that occasionally happens (and if so, how is it normally dealt with?) or is it a frame problem. I can't see that it is a problem with the wheel. The P7 used an adaptor on the rear and it worked perfectly well.

Advice appreciated!
Faster than a tent.......

Posts

  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,803
    First measure where the wheel rim sits between seat and chain stays, if it's in the middle as I expect then it sounds like you need to look for a thinner PM mount, some can be a bit fat!
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • Dirtydog11Dirtydog11 Posts: 1,621
    It may have been serviced and put back together incorrectly, Id have a look at the exploded view on the Shimano site and check washers/spacers against yours.


    iirc the spacers/washers are drive side and non drive side specific (different thickness to each other) and may have been fitted the wrong way around, I can vaguely remember having a similar issue.
    Kinesis Maxlight XC

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  • stubsstubs Posts: 5,001
    If they are the new Shimano discs with the steel rotor riveted to an aluminium spider they can catch post mounts. Both the post mounts front and rear on my Canyon have lost the paint, the clearance is minimal and the rivets catch slightly when cornering. Clearances are tight with the post mount standard but I would check with Orange the tolerances might be out.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • BigStu2BigStu2 Posts: 794
    I had a similar problem with my Avids, I just used a thicker cone washer fom a set of V brakes to space the caliper further out.
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  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,803
    Erm....it's fouling the adaptor, moving the caliper aint't goint to do much!
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • stubsstubs Posts: 5,001
    The Beginner wrote:
    Erm....it's fouling the adaptor, moving the caliper aint't goint to do much!

    If its a post mount frame and an XT caliper there wont be an adaptor will there.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,803
    stubs wrote:
    If its a post mount frame
    It's an Orange crush, check the Orange website, all are IS mount.....
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • stubsstubs Posts: 5,001
    8318740631_3f00889c42_c.jpg
    crush_frame-182 by http://www.flickr.com/people/[email protected]/, on Flickr

    Looks post mount to me
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,803
    Not this sucker

    http://www.orangebikes.co.uk/bikes/2011/crush/
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • stubsstubs Posts: 5,001
    He says its a new frame and thats a 2 year old frame you have linked to.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,803
    Indeed, until he comes back, we won't know, the orange website doesn't show that frame and the photo of the 2012 is inconclusive.
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • Chunkers1980Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Pretty sure the op say rear brake and fouling the post mount.
  • stubsstubs Posts: 5,001
    The photo I posted is the 2013 Orange Crush frame it has post mounts as did the 2012 frame. The 2011 frame has IS mounts till we know what the OP has we are just going round in circles.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • rolf_frolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Apologies - I think I got my terms confused - I thought they were post mounts because they look like posts. I should know better given other confusing terms like clipless pedals etc..... :oops:

    And just to make sure I don't get them wrong again, rather than say what it isn't, I will say that the frame is as per the pic Stubs posted. I can post a pic of the actual frame when I get back to it in a couple of days but it probably isn't needed. On the pic, it is the upper of the two mounts which the disc rubs on.

    The caliper is the sort with the separate spider.

    I promise to try to go back to the Road Forums where I'm hopefully less of a liability when I've got this bike back on the road :lol:
    Faster than a tent.......
  • stubsstubs Posts: 5,001
    Hi Rolf it can be confusing the pic here shows the 2 standards. It shows fork legs but frames are the same
    TECH_Disk_tab_type.jpg

    Post a pic of your bike showing the damage then we might be able to shed some light on the problem.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • rolf_frolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Keeping it tech...... it's the one on the right! :lol:

    Tuesday hopefully for a pic but at the moment it might not show much - it's only scraped a sliver of paint off as I've only had the wheel briefly mounted with the frame on the stand. I could probably let it finish scraping the paint off but even then I'd worry at what might happen if the disc developed a slight warp. The clearance just seems stupidly non existent.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • rolf_frolf_f Posts: 16,015
    A couple of pics. You can see in the first a sort of step in the metal of the post which, if it wasn't there, would give a bit more clearance. The second shows more clearly how tight it is there. I think I need to ring Orange again....

    P1120450_zps8152c352.jpg

    P1120460_zps88a68228.jpg
      Faster than a tent.......
    • stubsstubs Posts: 5,001
      That is very tight clearance. Have you got access to another disc brake wheel to try and see if it is the wheel.
      Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
    • allthegearnoideaallthegearnoidea Posts: 4,077
      i'd certainly go for trying another disc as it looks like the disc spider is moving the over tight to the mount, i'd pop a 'normal disc' on there and check with that.
      Timmo.
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    • rolf_frolf_f Posts: 16,015
      I can certainly try the old plain Avid disc (no other complete wheel to try) - but I don't think it will make a difference. The spider is dished towards the hub to allow the disc itself to remain in the same alignment as a single piece disc.
      Faster than a tent.......
    • supersonicsupersonic Posts: 82,708 Lives Here
      Migth be able to repsace the hub slightly, and redish the rim.
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    • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,803
      +1 not unusual for discs with an ally spider to have clearance issues while (the lighter and more reliable) plain discs are fine.
      Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
    • rolf_frolf_f Posts: 16,015
      Possibly solved! :lol:

      Took the disc off - filed away at the disc mount on the hub to make sure no censored of flash was getting in the way. Filed away at the paint on the post and repolished it (thick powder coat so plenty of potential for thining it!) and then polished the slightly protruding heads of the rivets that hold the disc to the spider. Result below. Seems an almost improbably effective result but the answers speak for themselves.

      Thanks for the input folks. I now need to wait for my decent BB cup tool and a new cassette lockring tool so replace the one I knackered trying to get this cassette off and I might almost be ready to finish the build!

      P1120461_zpsec146f70.jpg
      Faster than a tent.......
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