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Rockshox Reba

BluestoesonnoseBluestoesonnose Posts: 372
edited December 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi,
Just looking at getting the parts together for servicing my girlfriends 2012 Reba's over the Christmas break and I have a few questions:

1, What grade for oil do I use?

2, Is it only a matter of following the BikeRadar guide (http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/w ... rks-23142/)

3, The forks came with spacers, do these reduce or increase the travel and where do they fit?

Cheers
Blues
This is why!

Posts

  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    Hi,
    Just looking at getting the parts together for servicing my girlfriends 2012 Reba's over the Christmas break and I have a few questions:

    1, What grade for oil do I use?

    2, Is it only a matter of following the BikeRadar guide (http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/w ... rks-23142/)

    3, The forks came with spacers, do these reduce or increase the travel and where do they fit?

    Cheers
    Blues
    1 more than one.
    2 as above download the manual from Srams webby it lists everything you need.
    3 also in the service manual. add to reduce travel.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Cheers, guys, the only thing is the manual on the web site seems to show different lowers that the ones I have. the damper knob and the air valve are shrouded by the fork lower, the ones in the manual on the SRAM web site show these to be open. I'm guessing that it's just a development of the same basic idea.

    One further question will any 15 weight oil (ie motorbike) be ok or does it have to be mountain bike fork oil?
    This is why!
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,802
    Any 15 weight fork oil will do!
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • Cheers,

    All seems simple enough
    This is why!
  • I've got the 2012 rebas which are hollow bottoms and have recently swapped the lower legs over so here's a couple of tips that might save some frustration:

    1. I had to use a 1/2 inch drive 10mm deep socket to undo the air spring nut - 1/4" and 3/8" sockets didn't have enough internal clearance to get to the nut.

    2. Make sure the fork legs are near on dead level when reinstalling the lowers, you'd think 5ml of oil wouldn't come out easily but the pressure created when sliding the lowers on wants to blow the oil out through the bottom of the lowers. If this happens you'll have to clean the legs again and put the correct amount back in!

    3. The air spring nut does not require much torque when tightening, only about 6 or 7 nm iirc - I actually sheared the spring shaft and had to buy a new one - I bought a torque wrench before installing the second air spring!

    Having said the above the whole process is really quite simple and the sram docs are easy to follow!
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,802
    Ref 2, insert uppers part way, flip forks upside down and use a syringe to put the oil in, before pushing the uppers home and bolting in place - simples!
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • That would be the best way by far - in my bodge it fashion I didn't remove the forks from the bike and didn't have a suitable syringe - I don't know why I make things hard for myself!
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