1x10 from scratch

milko9000
milko9000 Posts: 533
edited December 2012 in MTB buying advice
Hi. Question x in a series of y.

Whenever I search on this I get a bazillion hits on conversions but not a lot on doing it from new. Sorry if I missed an obvious one. I'm gonna build a bike, which will be my first one from scratch so there's something of a learning curve. It's a hardtail and I want to go 1x10 for the weight saving and simplicity.

Looking around, there's nice deals to be had on XT groupsets from bike-discount.de but then I get two sets of shifters and a 2x10 crankset. And not a shadow+ rear mech, while I think about it. So if I did that I'd have some spare bits to get rid of and am I right in thinking would also want to get a purpose-designed 1x10 chainring too? Alternatively there's things like Zee or Saint which are properly 1x10 from the start... but then are DH-oriented so probably weightier than I need. Or Sram XX1 but haha no I think that might be too much money. And I just like Shimano better I think.

Comments

  • lawman
    lawman Posts: 6,868
    I run 1x10 on both bikes one was a converted 2x10 and the other was 1x10 from the start. Forget getting a 3x10 groupset, personally I would pick the individual parts you need. An xt shadow plus mech, saint shifter and xt cassette would be perfect, then purchase the cranks and flog the chain rings and buy a proper single speed ring such as the e-13 guide ring, which is what I use and swear by. That little lot should come to about £300 give or take with probably 40 or 50 quid back from the chain rings :)
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Wot e sed.....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Thanks muchly. Unless someone chimes in with an opposing opinion soon I'll do just that.
    edit - oh yeah, but you're still talking about purchasing cranks and flogging the rings from them, so that's still buying a 2x10 crankset right? Rather than a DH thing like Saint that's already 1x10?

    Saint shifter worth it over Zee...or indeed an XT shifter bought singly?
  • LJ.
    LJ. Posts: 149
    I would buy 1x10 cranks if you are starting from scratch, no reason not to, unless you are a little unsure and might want a safety net
  • lawman
    lawman Posts: 6,868
    2x10 xt chainsets use a different chainline to the triples or indeed the saint/zee single, so I'd recommend the xt triple and sell the 3 rings.

    Saint would be my choice tbh, nothing wrong with xt, but the newer saint's are designed for shadow plus mechs, I've noticed an increase in effort needed with my xt shifter and xtr plus mech over the same shifter and a normal xt mech, so perhaps the saint would remedy this. The increased effort is no bad thing, but I just love the light action of the shifters.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Saint cranks are a lot heavier than XT, for which reason I'd stay XT, haven't a clue how lawman thinks a crank is designed for a mech and you're replacing the chainring anyway so he appears to have missed the point - a lot.

    Of course adding friction will increase the shifter weight (DOH!)

    Either get a 2x10 crankest and tweak the spacers for chainline (arguably the cranks look prettier without the step to the missing outer ring) or use a double and the middle ring location (if running a bash you have to use a triple really).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • lawman
    lawman Posts: 6,868
    Saint cranks are a lot heavier than XT, for which reason I'd stay XT, haven't a clue how lawman thinks a crank is designed for a mech and you're replacing the chainring anyway so he appears to have missed the point - a lot.

    Of course adding friction will increase the shifter weight (DOH!)

    Either get a 2x10 crankest and tweak the spacers for chainline (arguably the cranks look prettier without the step to the missing outer ring) or use a double and the middle ring location (if running a bash you have to use a triple really).

    I was talking about the saint shifter not the cranks, xt for cranks all the way, the saints weigh more than a small moon :lol:

    Afaik the saint shifter has been designed to work with the new clutch mechs, as I say there's nothing worng with xt, but I'd have a saint shifter if buying again.

    Basically I'd take xt for everything, including brakes and a saint shifter if I were in the op's position
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Argh got you.....not sure if Saint have a different leverage ration or not.....it would be unusual for Shimano as Saint tends to be XT based with selected items changed for strength.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • lawman
    lawman Posts: 6,868
    Argh got you.....not sure if Saint have a different leverage ration or not.....it would be unusual for Shimano as Saint tends to be XT based with selected items changed for strength.

    From the looks of it, it seems more xtr based from the outside at least. The LBS haven't got any in stock, because I was pretty interested in them just to see what the difference is between them and my xt shifter. I like the textured lever of the xtr's and the saints look similar, so maybe they share the xtr body with different internals?
  • Thanks again folks, am arriving at some semblance of understanding. I think I'd like a bash (large scar on my calf from a time where I didn't have one and the chainring took a hefty bite) so the XT triple makes sense. Will investigate the shifter dealio - I dunno, presumably if you have the clutch engaged it's aways going to feel stiffer than if you don't. If I get a Saint one I will surely feel extra gnarly.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If you have a bash on the outer you can save on chainguide - unless you're going gnarly to the rad dude - with either an N-gear jump stop or an inner guide ring.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • oodboo
    oodboo Posts: 2,171
    I went for a 3x chainset when I converted my bike to 1x10. Also went xt throughout, 3x chainser looks pretty good IMO:
    67394.jpg
    I love horses, best of all the animals. I love horses, they're my friends.

    Strava
  • Yeah, I'd like a bash and I'd like not to need a chainguide ideally, I don't really like 'em so an inner guide ring sounds like a good thing.

    oodboo I see you're running a guide but not a bash - so you replaced put your single ring on the 'middle' of the XT crankset or somewhere else?
  • oodboo
    oodboo Posts: 2,171
    That's right, the red e13 ring replaced the middle ring and I bought shorter chainring bolts as well. The chain guide is an e13 lg1+ which has a bash guard built in. I did have to cut the granny ring tabs off the chainset for it to fit though as these got in the way. Taking a hacksaw to a brand new xt chainset did not feel good but I'm happy with the result.
    I love horses, best of all the animals. I love horses, they're my friends.

    Strava
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Have a look at the Raidium inner ring, I think BBG also do them or I'm making one from a sheet of CF off ebay so as long as I don't screw up it will cost about £11.50!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Excellent. Now I just have to decide when to buy all the bits I suppose. Frame doesn't get here til early Jan so despite all these tempting "£40 off when you spend £200" type things the likes of CRC have going now I wonder if I'm best waiting for Jan sale craziness. edit oh yeah and how many teeth I want on the ring, I suppose.
  • lawman
    lawman Posts: 6,868
    The LG1+ is a very, very good guide and I'd highly recommend it :) Chainring size, I'd say a 34 would be good for all-round use, or a 32 if you live somewhere with super steep climbs.
  • wmorgs
    wmorgs Posts: 113
    Hi There,

    Got E-thirteen 36t Chainring

    E-thirteen LG-1 Chainguide

    Both from Zesty 514 With XT Crank
    Not Needed As I Wanted Granny Ring Back :roll:
  • are you offering them for sale? I don't need the 36t chainring, but the guide might be of interest. Is it the LG-1+ version? What year?
  • wmorgs
    wmorgs Posts: 113
    Hi Mate, not sure what version was on bike when i bought it . . .Just Says e*thirteen LG1 think.....
    Open To Offers . . . .
    Chain%2B.JPG
  • peter413
    peter413 Posts: 5,120
    The ISCG mount and ring size should be written on the backplate somewhere.