QR skewers

I7 Extreme

Is there a difference between MTB and Road bike skewers? :idea: and how do you tell if you need extra long or standard :?: thanks

danmitch

Rear hubs are typically 130mm for road and 135mm for MTB so MTB skewers tend to be a bit longer. Worth checking actual lengths if you are not using specific road skewers for a road bike or MTB skewers for MTB. The other difference of course is that road skewers tend to be built with light weight as a requirement.

I7 Extreme

Thanks ,as this is in the buying advice - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=49466 OR http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/produ ... se_Skewers . for a road bike, the white porkies would look better but are they much heavier or suitable for road?

I7 Extreme

Pictures to help you decide what i should get

mallorcajeff

i have just replaced my dura ace ones with the planet x carbon ones and they are fantastic and super light for £20 best bargain.

Bobbinogs

mallorcajeff wrote:

i have just replaced my dura ace ones with the planet x carbon ones and they are fantastic and super light for £20 best bargain.

...but the Dura-ace QRs are reputed to be the best you can get... and are closed cam design, again generally reputed to be the better (as in more trustworthy) type. So I am not sure that spending £20 to effectively downgrade counts as a bargain, although the 40g saving per skewer will probably double your average speed, allegedly

I7 Extreme

£20 is too much for me to pay for some skewers, any other suggestions? or which would be better out of the halo or pro lite?

styxd

Here you go, best skewers you can get. Work perfectly on a road bike

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-deor ... rc=froogle

Ouija

styxd wrote:

Here you go, best skewers you can get. Work perfectly on a road bike

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-deor ... rc=froogle

+1

The Halo's and others of that type often require a second adjustment after you've put the wheel on and ridden a few miles (can work themselves loose or something stretches somewhere). Not that i've thought of changing my Halos as i never take the wheels off the bike i have them on. But all my other bikes have the Shimanos on despite having Pro-Lite wheels (got a box full of Pro-Lite skewers for Allein wheelsets) as they just plain work.

I7 Extreme

Thanks

ugo.santalucia

mallorcajeff wrote:

i have just replaced my dura ace ones with the planet x carbon ones and they are fantastic and super light for £20 best bargain.

What a mistake... Any chance to see your DA in the sales section?

mallorcajeff

why is it a mistake?

ugo.santalucia

mallorcajeff wrote:

why is it a mistake?

BobbinoGS explained it well. The close cam mechanism is far superior to those lightweight skewers in fancy colours, which do not do a great job at all. If they are in good conditions I am interested in buying them... They are hard to find

mroli

@mallorcajeff - here is Sheldon on why closed cam is best:http://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html

mallorcajeff

Oh right had no idea I have had them on the bike for a month and done 900 miles and they seem to do the job fine? My DA ones are just in a drawer but i will keep them and put them back on the bike when the other ones fail. I dont really sell much which is why I have a room full of stuff. Must have a clear out soon found a pair of carbon wheels last night I didnt even know I had. :roll:

antonyfromoz

Ouija wrote:

styxd wrote:

Here you go, best skewers you can get. Work perfectly on a road bike

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-deor ... rc=froogle

+1

The Halo's and others of that type often require a second adjustment after you've put the wheel on and ridden a few miles (can work themselves loose or something stretches somewhere). Not that i've thought of changing my Halos as i never take the wheels off the bike i have them on. But all my other bikes have the Shimanos on despite having Pro-Lite wheels (got a box full of Pro-Lite skewers for Allein wheelsets) as they just plain work.

I have the Halo skewers (possibly the same as pictured but I can't remember the model name) and I have never had any issues with the mechanism - no slipping or readjustment needed. I often change wheels as i have another wheel fitted for the turbo. Over the years I have had many types of quick releases, both internal and external cam types, and I haven't noticed any difference in performance between the two. Sheldon Brown refers specifically to the fact that the internal cam quick releases give more clamping force for the amount of hand force applied and recommends that this type be used for horizontal dropouts and forks without "lawyer lips". My bikes do not have horizontal dropouts and have the lips on the forks to stop the wheels from being easily removed so these recommendations do not apply to my situation. As with all equipment you need to keep them maintained ie free from dirt and contaminents, and make sure they are used correctly ie have the cam around the correct way and have it sufficiently tight.

Ouija

Funnily enough, after coming off my bike three times on one ride on saturday due to to a combination of slick tyres and unexpected icy weather on the top of Dalby forest i decided to dig out my old mountain bike wheels/tyres and put them on yesterday. They have open skewers (quando) like the Hopes. After flipping the bike over, changing wheels and tightening them up to the point where i was struggling to push the lever in i started fiddling around with my disk brake alignment as the hubs sit the rotor in a different position.

After 20 minutes fiddling, without even riding the bike i flipped it back over and checked for wheel wobble and noticed there was some. Checking the levers i found they weren't as tightly clamped as they had been twenty minutes ago and were a lot easier to clamp and unclamp. So tightened them up and clamped them as hard as i could again until there was no wheel wobble and left the bike for five hours until late in the evening.

Jumped on the bike at 8.30pm and went for a quick ride around some of the country side around Scarborough. On my way back in after 16miles the bike was starting to feel a bit loose as i was humping it up a hill, throwing the bars side to side. So i stopped and checked the front wheel only to find it as loose as a goose to the point that if i'd popped a wheelie the front wheel might of just sailed off in a different direction. The rear wheel was loose too, though not to the same degree.

That's three adjustments in just one day. The two other wheelsets i use with that bike during the summer have closed Shimano skewers on and never need adjusting after the initial first clamp. I seem to remember a similar story with my white Halo open clamps on the back wheel of my carbon fibre mountain bike last year after i changed tyres during the summer. Though, in that case, it was only one adjustment required and only to the rear.

And before everyone chimes in and says i'm obviously not tightening the skewer up tight enough on the initial first clamp, believe me i'm tightening it up to the point where i'm going red in the face trying to push the lever closed, being aware that these types of skewers tend to have this problem.

t4tomo

I7 Extreme wrote:

£20 is too much for me to pay for some skewers, any other suggestions? or which would be better out of the halo or pro lite?

if you value cost over safety then just pop a chopstick through the middle and hold it in place with some insulation tape.

I7 Extreme

thanks everyone - i bought those shimano deore ones from sjs cycles

ugo.santalucia

I7 Extreme wrote:

thanks everyone - i bought those shimano deore ones from sjs cycles

Unbelievable... Someone who actually listens to the advice! Good choice...

migrantwing

ugo.santalucia wrote:

I7 Extreme wrote:

thanks everyone - i bought those shimano deore ones from sjs cycles

Unbelievable... Someone who actually listens to the advice! Good choice...

Ha!

+1

May get a few pairs myself for that price.

Darryl_1983

Aren't the Shimano's linked MTB spec rear QR's, ie 135mm?

ugo.santalucia

Darryl_1983 wrote:

Aren't the Shimano's linked MTB spec rear QR's, ie 135mm?

The thread is long enough for them to work at 130 too. If the extra 5 mm bother you, you can file them off