Bike Vans - Your help please?

jmillen
jmillen Posts: 627
edited December 2012 in MTB general
Evening peeps :)

Been out this evening and purchased a 2003 Vauxhall Combo 1.7Di to transport my bikes around. I was sick of constantly playing around with the seats in the car each time I needed to take the bikes somewhere.

Anyways, I'm after some advice from those of you who have had/currently have a "bike van". I will generally be transporting no more than 2 bikes (any combination of mtb and road), and would want to have some room for storage of kit etc without it moving around everywhere. I need to still be able to use it as a "normal" van when needs must, so nothing too drastic.

> Anyone have any tips on a layout I could use?
> How would you store the bikes inside the van whilst being transported?
> Best way to secure them whilst in the van in terms of locking devices?

Its currently lined on the walls, but I'm looking to get this re-done and get the floor lined as well. Would you get this all coated with something?

I'd really appreciated any tips, advice and/or pics of what people have done. I know what I want to achieve, just not really sure how to go about it or where to start.

Many thanks in advance.

Cheers,
James
2010 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Expert Carbon
2014 De Rosa R848
Carrera TDF Ltd Commuter

Comments

  • Hello,

    I too am thinking of buying a van for similar reason and would like to see peoples current set ups and ideas.

    One idea i found for the bikes is this rack: http://www.bogley.com/forum/showthread. ... -Bike-Rack

    Build to what ever size you need.
  • jimothy78
    jimothy78 Posts: 1,407
    I have a small van (Citroen Berlingo) for work (I'm a gardener by trade), and it is great having it to stick the bike in. I already have tool racks mounted on the side walls, and secure my bike by leaning it against one side and simply holding it in place with a taut bungy strap. Because of the length of the van, the bike can't move forwards or backwards (in fact only fits in with the front wheel turned slightly) and the bungy holds it against the sidewall, so it can't move laterally. If you have the van ply-lined then I would mount a couple of hook eyes or similar on either side to allow you to do the same.
  • Clank
    Clank Posts: 2,323
    I run a Defender HT and like Jimothy, the back is long enough to take my bikes (all hardtails) assembled and upright. Two bikes, one either side, held in place by a bungee around the steerer clamp on the stem hooked into a convienient place on the side wall. The space between the bikes can then be filled with general gear, or camping stuff etc.

    The van walls are plylined (proper marine ply) and the bed is sheeted in heavy duty automotive carpet.
    How would I write my own epitaph? With a crayon - I'm not allowed anything I can sharpen to a sustainable point.

    Disclaimer: Opinions expressed herein are worth exactly what you paid for them.
  • Fiat doblo (people carrier) fugly but can manage any combination of kids, dogs and bikes I can throw at it. It's got hook eyes in the back to secure stuff with bungees. Don't over build the back, less is more when it comes to versatility.
    pity those who don't drink, the way they feel when they wake is the best they will feel all day


    voodoo hoodoo
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Hi, I've got a VW Transporter, I have had it ply lined as it is a work van. Half way through the back across the top is a plastic clip fit cover for the bulk head, if you remove this the bulkhead has a number of holes in it for various reasons, cableing etc. I purchased two 2" wide heavy duty neoprene velcro straps from ebay (£5) you can get exactly the same thing in BnQ for £15, no brainer!! and i've attached them using butterfly screws, the handlebars go through the straps and the back wheel is strapped down to a loading ring already in the van. This is a perfect solution for me, it saves my bike from bashing around, keeps it up and away from other kit and I can fit two bikes in the hung position. Your van may have a similar setup. I don't lock them in place because I never really leave them for to long and get them straight in the garage when i'm home (and i've got good insurance just incase)

    Food for thought maybe :)
    It's better to burn out than to fade away!!
  • I've got a 2002 VW LT35 fully converted as a camper van but with dedicated bike storage at the back for 2/3 bikes and all related gear (Van currently for sale if anyone's interested). Its awesome as it keeps all the filth away from the living space. Am I right in thinking the Vauxhall Combo is a small car/van type thing? In which case I guess my setup wouldn't be very relevant.

    I saw a guy turn up at a trail centre with one of those tiny vans and he had fixed some small blocks of wood to the floor for his front axles to go through (with front wheel off), thereby holding the bikes secure for travel. I was impressed with that idea.
    www.trailguru.co.uk - The ultimate guide to mountain biking in Wales
  • This was my solution for my Ford Freda which originally came with 8 seats and full length seat rails on the floor;

    2012-04-06%252011.37.13.jpg
    some 25mm square tube and 10mm coach bolts that can slide along the length of the seat rails.

    This isn't the final configuration. The bike rack is now at the front with the bikes facing forward with a fridge, sink and hob on the left and storage and seating on the right.
  • jmillen
    jmillen Posts: 627
    Thank you for the replies :D

    This is the van I've bought, not the exact one, but same make/model/size etc.

    3.jpg?dt=3e46bf384510bdb3404aca4fbed68bfa

    As mentioned above, I'm planning on insulating and re-lining the van. I'm looking at that double sided foil bubble insulation stuck to all panels, and then fitted out with ply for all the surfaces. Thicker ply for the flooring, but also insulated.

    Do you think the below would be enough to secure the bikes in position whilst being transported, or would you look to secure the rear wheels as well?

    TRK34.jpg

    Unsure whether to line the sides in carpet, and the floor in vinyl? Or, do I just treat all the ply with some kind of coating ?

    Would then glue/screw some small bits of timber to the floor slightly bigger than my "bike box" which I use to carry all the crap around, with the aim of stopping it moving around in the back. Also, perhaps add hooks to the walls to hang wheels from, and something to stop them from moving around (bungee cord?)

    Only thing I then need to look into is securing it all if left overnight in the van at a hotel or something.

    Anyones comments and/or experience on any of the above would be much appreciated.

    Cheers
    James
    2010 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Expert Carbon
    2014 De Rosa R848
    Carrera TDF Ltd Commuter
  • Clank
    Clank Posts: 2,323
    I have several runs of aluminium load track running the length of the back of mine.

    I use bungeys for light stuff, but spare wheels, tool kits etc get ratcheted down.

    This sort of thing:
    http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/Cargo_Tracking_Mac'sTieDowns.shtml

    I'm sure it's possible to buy it for less, website is only for example!.

    The recommended brand of bubble-wrap insulation stuff is 'Reflectix' - available from Amazon or Ebay. I prefer the double-thickness stuff, and can now sleep in the back of mine, midwinter with NO condensation.

    If it's going onto van sides and ceilings, I'd favour bonding it on, and for this I use a good 1-pack PU adhesive, but the van walls must be dry when you apply it (it'll foam, if they're not). I've used 'Tigerseal'. It'll hold windscreens in, and once dry is tough and invulnerable to water.

    Vinyl on the floor is good, but take it out when you haven't got the bikes in (it stops condensation forming and sitting under the vinyl). Don't bother with anything over the ply walls except the fitting you choose, but do use Marine grade for it all. Once installed, a light sanding and a quick wash over with a weak 'Flash' mix will keep the walls mold free for a good few years.
    How would I write my own epitaph? With a crayon - I'm not allowed anything I can sharpen to a sustainable point.

    Disclaimer: Opinions expressed herein are worth exactly what you paid for them.
  • jmillen
    jmillen Posts: 627
    Thank you Clank, some great info there.
    I apologise in advance for all the questions, but the more I look into all this, the more questions it provokes!

    Insulation
    Bubble-wrap insulation you can get from B&Q etc, no good?
    Is it okay to use this for all areas of the van, including under the ply floor?
    Is it a case of covering the back of whatever is used in Tigerseal and sticking to all parts of the vans internals?

    Sound Deadening
    Just been reading that something called "Dynamat" is pretty good stuff, anyone have anything to say about it ?
    Not sure how this works in terms fixing with the above insulation?
    I presume its best to put it on as many panels as possible, but doesn't need to cover the whole thing?

    Ply Lining
    Will definitely go with marine ply.
    Alot of the kits I've seen on ebay etc have 6mm door panels and sides, 9mm floor and 9mm wheel boxes. Is this adequate? I guess at the prices that these kits are, that they are not marine Ply.
    2010 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Expert Carbon
    2014 De Rosa R848
    Carrera TDF Ltd Commuter
  • Clank
    Clank Posts: 2,323
    jmillen wrote:
    Thank you Clank, some great info there.
    I apologise in advance for all the questions, but the more I look into all this, the more questions it provokes!

    Insulation
    Bubble-wrap insulation you can get from B&Q etc, no good?
    Is it okay to use this for all areas of the van, including under the ply floor?
    Is it a case of covering the back of whatever is used in Tigerseal and sticking to all parts of the vans internals?

    Sound Deadening
    Just been reading that something called "Dynamat" is pretty good stuff, anyone have anything to say about it ?
    Not sure how this works in terms fixing with the above insulation?
    I presume its best to put it on as many panels as possible, but doesn't need to cover the whole thing?

    Ply Lining
    Will definitely go with marine ply.
    Alot of the kits I've seen on ebay etc have 6mm door panels and sides, 9mm floor and 9mm wheel boxes. Is this adequate? I guess at the prices that these kits are, that they are not marine Ply.

    Insulation - the stuff in B&Q is likely to be as good, to be fair. Mine was an automotive grade and sourced from Ebay (it was cheaper than the local B&Q Whorehouse), but I doubt there is actually little to choose between brand X and Y - as long as it's aluminium coated on both faces with two layers of bubble-wrap fill - it should be good to go.

    I've applied it to the van walls and the roof (it has no head-trim in the back, ala most vans) - as said, I've got heavy duty automotive carpet (truck cab spec) fitted on the floor. The problem with fitting relfecty-type insultation to the floor is that once the floor panel is in, you crush the stuff. I wouldn't bother doing the floor if the ply is going in.

    The adhesive deosn't need to cover the back of the panel - I use thin beads (5-6mm diameter), along the length of the piece about 2" apart (it's also a good trick for replacing the inner ply walls of caravans). The real game is holding it in place whilst the adhesive cures (a couple of hours). People talk about spray adhesives for carpet, but from experience, the range I tried just don't last long in a van-type environment). On the roof and walls, where the insulation will cross the roof reinforcements, I've fitted riv-nuts and used small plates to clamp the insulation to the reinforcement. These I've then covered with a smaller piece of the insultation, fastened with good-old duct tape (other brands of uber-tape are available; name used for demonstration puroses only. Always read the label).

    Sound deadening - the reflecty-type stuff, if bonded on, does a suprisingly good job of deadening noise (another reason for using the double layer stuff). However, if you do decide you want to go the whole hog (and I know people who have), the sound deadening is only needed on the single skin areas (so panel faces) and not over reinforcements etc. The thermal insualtion can go over everything metal from the floor up (over the wheel arces can be good as a lot of noise will come up from there, espeically when it's wet).

    Ply-lining. 6mm will do an adequate job on the sides - it'll take a suprising load. and should be very suitable for hanging light stuff off of, like wheels etc. Personally, for noise reasons, I'd start at 9mm. My walls are 12mm, but only because it was cheaper than the thinner stuff at the time (yeah, go figure!). 12 years on, the ply is still completely solid. Once the walls are in, can I suggest fitting:
    1) a couple of those elastic netting 'map pocket' things and,
    2) A heavy duty hanging shoe-rack thing that people use in big tents - both make really usefull nick-nack storge, especially when sleeping in the back!

    Try and use stainless steel crews wherever possible (I source mine from here: http://www.wrightsautosupplies.co.uk/). I can't abide rusty screws!

    I think that's everything! It's not a difficult job, just a bit time consuming, but darned satisfying when it's done!
    How would I write my own epitaph? With a crayon - I'm not allowed anything I can sharpen to a sustainable point.

    Disclaimer: Opinions expressed herein are worth exactly what you paid for them.
  • jmillen
    jmillen Posts: 627
    Well I've made the first purchase in the whole bike van saga !

    I've just bought one of these:

    TRK34.jpg

    and a three of these to go with it:

    fyVMtP8A

    For anyone who has this set up, are the rear of the bikes okay in terms of movement, or do you fasten them down?

    I'm still looking into the whole sound deadening/insulation thing. I've read countless posts and info on the subject (probably too much to be honest).

    I was initially going to use flashband for sound deadening, double layer foil bubble wrap for insulation, and them ply lined.

    I've since read that the flashband can (1) cause a bit of a smell when it warms up in the summer, and (2) in the heat because of what its made from, can actually just melt and make a right mess. I then started to look at Fatmat and Dynamat, very expensive ! I'm also not overly convinced by Fatmats claims of it also offering thermal insulation, but could be convinced by anyone who has actually used it?

    The plot thickens !
    2010 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Expert Carbon
    2014 De Rosa R848
    Carrera TDF Ltd Commuter