Tubeless conversion problem

leevil knievil

Fitted a tubeless conversion kit to my wheels, everything went fine with installation, didn't ride for a few days and lost pressure on the rear tyre pumped it up and was ok riding but then after few days lost pressure again

Checked for leaks in a water bath but can find no leaks, does the tyre need more sealant and if so what is the easiest way to get the schrader valve out or could there be another problem, thanks.

spacedog

It can often take a couple of rides to get the tyres to seal properly. Check the tyres every couple of days and keep them pressurised and see how they go.

If after a couple more rides they aren't sealing then it would be worth investigating.

I have recently put a pair of Racing Ralphs on Stans rims. The rear kept pressure fine from day one but the front took 2 rides to settle down.

Even once properly sealed, tubeless tyres will loose pressure quicker than tubes so you'll need to keep an eye on your pressures.

The approach I take to sealant is, if the wheel has been sitting for a while and I can hear the sealant swashing around then it's OK, if I can't hear it I'll add some more sealant. When the wheel is moving, the sealant will form a thin layer around the outside of the tyres. I'm not sure if that the best approach but it works for me.

eskimonumber1

I had the same problem so shook the sealant around inside the tyres good and proper, then left each one on its side on a bucket overnight, then did the same on the other side.

After my next ride, everything was fine and you could see on the rim where it meets the tyre bead where the air had been escaping.

allthegearnoidea

Pump them up to 40-45psi go for a good spin around the block making sure topop off a few curbs etc. allowing the sealant to spread, drop to normal pressure and with any luck you'll be fine.

cooldad

Use tubes.

tbikeradar

dont use tubes

Mccraque

It will be losing air from somewhere. I suspect that it's a sidewall or, if you have used a kit, perhaps around the base of the valve..

Get a big tub full of water and look for the bubbles. My Rons had porous walls for about a month...managed to seal eventually. Just leave the wheel on its side over a bucket with a load of stans sloshing around at around 45 psi.

leevil knievil

Thanks for the replies gents including cooldad who's remark i will poo poo, going to put more sealant in because i can't hear any sloshing around, first to the bike shop for a valve removal tool.

cooldad

You can poo poo all you like. I am right and the rest of the world is wrong. Always.Fact.

cloudynights

check around the valve area and also the sidewalls can be porus just needs a little time till the latex plugs the holes, but its worth sticking at it, they make running tubes seem a very second rate set up

hopper1

Be sure you shake the bottle of sealant before use, or it's just like white pee! Won't work.

leevil knievil

Update, managed to get a valve remover from a mate at work also managed to get a syringe from the lab at work to inject it in.

Put 20ml of sealant in re-pressurised tyre all went ok just had a quick blast after work tyre still up, will see what happens over next few days thanks for all the replies.

allthegearnoidea

I run a bit more in the rear liquid wise, normal stans bottle is 60ml on a new tyre I chuck in 120ml to help seal and keep enough in there, (make my own tyre goo!)

When I first set mine up in jan/feb 2011 I put 120ml of hutchinsons fluid in each trye, the front one I took off a month back and the fluid was still running around in there and would only ever loose 5psi over 3 months if that, the rear goes through it a lot quicker (hard tail) and have prolly put 6 small 60ml pots through it,
Once when out have had to put a tube in due to snapped valve and no spare, felt So draggy and Wrong!