replacing exposed gear cable with fully enclosed

crispy1980

basically, as per title. i have a gt aggressor that i have pretty much decided to keep to use at local woods/cannock etc when its really wet. thing is though, the rear cable has an outer only for the first 6-8 inches leading away from the derrailuerl this is allowing mud/water etc to get into the cable during a ride which ends in the rear not shifting properly. my specialized has fully enclosed cables and so doesnt suffer from this.

my question:- im guessing that i willhave to drill out the cable guides to take the inner and outer together? is this all i need to do or am i missing something obvious? cheers, chris

Chunkers1980

Mine doesn't have full lengths, it doesn't suffer as you describe.

cooldad

Mine has and does - the final run is down an almost vertical chainstay and I go through a lot of cables.

That's about it for installing a full outer, but as a less drastic measure you might want to try a Transfil Mudlover or something.
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/ ... s-11-44376

cooldad

I find the Transfil outers a bit rubbish, but run similar inner sheaths, but in sections, with Shimano tongued caps, Shimano stainless cables and SP41 outers, kind of works.

Woodmonkey

i've fitted clarks dirt shield cables, seem ok so far. can you not zip tie the outers to the frame to try it before you start drilling?

The Rookie

Muck on the inner only causes an issue when it enters an outer, otherwise it has no effect, my Kraken has a BB routed cable with a short length of outer at the front and rear only, the inner cable runs inside the chainstay lizard skin upto and into the rear outer and I use Jagwire O-ring sealed outers and have never had shifting issues due to crud on the cable (on my last local ride I was sad enough to weigh the bike on return and it had collected 4lbs of mud as an indication of local conditions).

crispy1980

it is getting into the cable outer right before the rear derailluer which is why its causing an issue. its only really here that its a problem.

The Rookie

Could try a lizard skin as I have, or better sealed ends on the outer or one of those 'condom' like things that extend up the inner......

Full length outers start off making shifting worse due to the extra friction, keep the crud out and yours will give better shifting than full length outers!

andyg1966

I've done full length outers on my old (2002) Stumpjumper. Works a treat in the winter. No need to drill cable guides, just zip tie cables along length of frame. Last for years even in the depths of winter.

ilovedirt

I just use a shitload of cable ties. Why anyone anywhere ever thought it would be a good idea to not use full cable outers is entirely beyond me. Even if the cables don't get gunked up with crap, a full outer is just so much easier to replace, and I don't feel any added friction in shifting from it.

Chunkers1980

You're actually wrong.

But this fits all the classic one or the other debates in mtb.

supersonic

Gear outer compresses under load - some feel this makes the shifting more mushy hence use as little of the stuff as they can.

mrmonkfinger

supersonic wrote:

Gear outer compresses under load - some feel this makes the shifting more mushy hence use as little of the stuff as they can.

Gear cables are made of longitudinal strands, specifically so it doesn't compress. The cut ends of the outers aren't always 100% rigid against the ferrules and similarly the ferrules against frame eyes...

Chunkers1980

Yes they are. But doesn't compress is a sweeping statement. The smallest compression will be multiplied the longer the cable.