Using a washer to create space for rotor - Acceptable?

tbikeradar
tbikeradar Posts: 129
edited November 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi,

Just wanted some views on what I have done to make some clearance between my rotor mount and caliper mount. As you can see I have added a pedal washer and it fits perfect as a spacer. Is this acceptable in terms of safety.

aa079e222247013.jpg 7f26a1222247082.jpg

Thanks,

tBike

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Can't see.
    What's a pedal washer?
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    so this is just to get clearance for the stupid rotors?

    is the fork sprung or rigid?
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Rigid forks.
  • And the other answer?
  • My front wheel fell and I did and endo!
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    tbikeradar wrote:
    My front wheel fell and I did and endo!
    That is the answer to which question?
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • Adding a spacer on the outside of the axle isn't unsafe per se but if you're having to do this as the result of an accident then something may be bent or damaged elsewhere on the fork and may be at risk of failure which could be dangerous.
  • Did it disc clear the fork without the washer, before you did and endo?
  • Hi, the disc and even the rotor bolts were fowling the fork leg and brake mount. By the way I did not endo, I just wanted to see the range of reactions.

    The forks are Exotic Carbon Rigid, Front hub is Chris King ISO ( half a mm wider than old hubs for some reason ) IS brake mount ( which cannot be moved away from fouling area due to IS mount nature ), the rotor is a Hope floating 183mm.

    I will illustrate where the fouling occurs on the rotor...

    2a318e222987274.jpg

    Both circled areas stick out by 1mm on both sides. The fork side is the problem and the 1mm space does solve the problem. I really can not see any other way to solve this problem unless I start to file down the rotor, which I think would be heavily advised against.

    a08e6f222988385.jpg

    You can click on the photos to make them bigger.

    Your thoughts are welcome
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    The answer is a new rotor. Some rotors are just not compatible with certain set ups.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    simples get rid of the stupid rotor.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Yes, I guess you are right...I do have a plain "non floating" hope rotor that will fit, but the rotor bolts will still foul. So much for ISO standards.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    ISO works fine, I believe in this instance one could say operator error.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • cooldad wrote:
    ISO works fine, I believe in this instance one could say operator error.

    Oh dear. It seems that some of your recent forum replies could amount to brain failure. Rarely curable, but there could hope for you.
  • so im confused, was there a traumatic incident that damaged something?

    or did you only recently purchase one part of this seemingly incompatible setup?
  • I have just been informed by two bike shops that Chris King ISO front hubs run a fraction wider than others. Many customers have had 1mm spacers fitted to make room for rotor clearance. It seems that rotors aren't so stupid after all.
  • Oh yes they are.

    Don't see how that is true.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    tbikeradar wrote:
    I have just been informed by two bike shops that Chris King ISO front hubs run a fraction wider than others. Many customers have had 1mm spacers fitted to make room for rotor clearance. It seems that rotors aren't so stupid after all.
    what a load of crap.
    http://chrisking.com/files/upload/hubs/ ... 11_A_1.pdf

    so the shops are saying that the hubs are too wide so lets make them even wider so you can use the stupid rotor.

    they are made to fit the exact same standards as all other hubs.

    floaty rotors were made to fit some forks. I have some forks that they would not fit on as there is only just enough room for standard discs.

    so a wider than standard hub spaced out even wider will have a detrimental efect on the forks (less for you other than the bending force on your drop out when you fit the wheel) while if it was a suspension fork you would be putting execsive sideloads on the bushes and legs exageration wear greatly reducing the life of the fork.

    Have fun it is Your bike and have a think why would a company that calls its self
    logo.gif need to make anything that was not the exact size it needs to be?
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • The word infallible bubbles from the cauldron.
  • 02gf74
    02gf74 Posts: 1,168
    hope saw floating rotors as you have discoverd have the hollow rivet which can foul forks and callipers., fromular r1 being an example.

    either fit plain old steel rotors, if you want to save weight then look at promax rotors -these give the best weight/price value or KCNC razor but those are not quite as effective plus can cause judder due to the large gaps in the braking surface.

    if you want alloy carrier, then fit the earlier model formula rotors - the formula ones also have a hollow rivet but the rivet does not protrude beyone the disc surrface. the new models for formula disc have longer "fingers" to resolve the clearance issue.
  • 02GF74 wrote:
    hope saw floating rotors as you have discoverd have the hollow rivet which can foul forks and callipers., fromular r1 being an example.

    either fit plain old steel rotors, if you want to save weight then look at promax rotors -these give the best weight/price value or KCNC razor but those are not quite as effective plus can cause judder due to the large gaps in the braking surface.

    if you want alloy carrier, then fit the earlier model formula rotors - the formula ones also have a hollow rivet but the rivet does not protrude beyone the disc surrface. the new models for formula disc have longer "fingers" to resolve the clearance issue.

    Thanks for this info.