stupid stem question
I know its really lame but i really cant remember which way round the order should be when changing your stem for a new one and removing some spacers.
Is the correct sequence the one below or is it the other way round (i.e. top cap first then stem clamp).
untighten stem clamp bolts
untighten top-cap bolt on headset
remove/replace stem
retighten top-cap bolt on stem
retighten stem clamp bolts
sorry for such a lame q'n :oops:
thanks
Is the correct sequence the one below or is it the other way round (i.e. top cap first then stem clamp).
untighten stem clamp bolts
untighten top-cap bolt on headset
remove/replace stem
retighten top-cap bolt on stem
retighten stem clamp bolts
sorry for such a lame q'n :oops:
thanks
2012 Scott Foil 10 (Shimano dura ace) - in progress
2011 Cervelo S2 (SRAM Red/Force)
2011 Cannondale Caad 10 (Shimano 105)
"Hills Hurt, Couches Kill!!"
Twitter: @MadRoadie
2011 Cervelo S2 (SRAM Red/Force)
2011 Cannondale Caad 10 (Shimano 105)
"Hills Hurt, Couches Kill!!"
Twitter: @MadRoadie
0
Comments
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Taking it all off, it doesn't matter. BUT putting it all back on:
1. "Tighten" topcap bolt enough to preload the headset bearings. No less, no more.
2. Torque the stem bolts (to no more than the specified torque).Ben
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Yes the order you've quoted is right, when you come to reassemble you tighten up the headset with the top cap bolt then you clamp the stem to the steerer. If you did it the other way around you wouldn't be able to tighten up the headset as the top cap bolt will be pulling against the stem which is already fixed in place.0
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Thanks guys, much appreciated!!2012 Scott Foil 10 (Shimano dura ace) - in progress
2011 Cervelo S2 (SRAM Red/Force)
2011 Cannondale Caad 10 (Shimano 105)
"Hills Hurt, Couches Kill!!"
Twitter: @MadRoadie0