Core 50 - recon gold - which spring?

Godha
Godha Posts: 4
edited November 2012 in MTB general
Hi, my first post so erm - hi!

Does anyone know what spring is in the recon gold fork on my Genesis Core 50? It is a touch firm and I would like to go one grade softer but not sure what is in there. I am fairly new to MTB's could I open the fork up without having to drain and replace the oil etc and would it be clearly marked which spring it was?

Cheers.

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    They are different colours, probably red.
    http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/service/ ... _chart.pdf
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  • Godha
    Godha Posts: 4
    Ok thanks.
  • chez_m356
    chez_m356 Posts: 1,893
    Godha wrote:
    could I open the fork up without having to drain and replace the oil etc

    Cheers.
    no, you need to remove the lowers to be able to change springs, spring and spring shaft are one unit, shows you here http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/X35Yv ... manual.pdf
    Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc 10- CANYON Nerve AM 6 2011
  • jairaj
    jairaj Posts: 3,009
    From the manual you posted looks like you can replace the spring without replacing the oil?

    Take a look at page 13. Seems like you just need to remove top cap, pull the spring out, let the oil drip back into the fork and drop a new spring. prob a 10-15min job. or have I understood incorrectly?
  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    Thats about it, but you might need to unscrew at the bottom (you do on some forks) which will mean oil will come out the bottom. Just make sure you catch it! You might want to add more oil than recommended if your going for a softer spring in order to gain a bit more progression at the end of the stroke to prevent bottom out.
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  • chez_m356
    chez_m356 Posts: 1,893
    jairaj wrote:
    From the manual you posted looks like you can replace the spring without replacing the oil?

    Take a look at page 13. Seems like you just need to remove top cap, pull the spring out, let the oil drip back into the fork and drop a new spring. prob a 10-15min job. or have I understood incorrectly?
    no you cant, look at coil spring removal step 3, you need to remove the lowers and push the spring shaft up through the stanchion, the spring shaft and coil are fixed, i e one unit,
        it looks like this
        TL11741?wid=300&hei=300&fmt=jpeg&qlt=75,0&op_sharpen=0&resMode=
          and if yours is default red, you'll be looking at a yellow (soft) unit, something like this
        http://www.petracycles.co.uk/coilshaft- ... 69387.html
        Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc 10- CANYON Nerve AM 6 2011
      • The Rookie
        The Rookie Posts: 27,812
        If you just push it up through, what's to stop it being pulled with the lowers still attached on the damoper side?
        Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
      • chez_m356
        chez_m356 Posts: 1,893
        The Beginner wrote:
        If you just push it up through, what's to stop it being pulled with the lowers still attached on the damoper side?
        what? you need to remove the lowers to be able to remove the coil, read the sram instructions
          At this point you should already have the lower leg removed from your fork. If not, you will need to return to the Lower Leg Removal section of this manual and follow the instructions for removing your fork lower legs.
            step 3
              Push the spring shaft upward, from the bottom of the upper tube, then remove the coil spring and spring shaft from the upper tube. Once removed, clean the upper tube threads with a rag.
              Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc 10- CANYON Nerve AM 6 2011
            • The Rookie
              The Rookie Posts: 27,812
              So what, that's the way they want you to do it, doesn't mean that's the only way to do it, I notice you have singularily failed to actually answer my question but have made a bald statement, so explain why you can't do it......
              Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
            • chez_m356
              chez_m356 Posts: 1,893
              The Beginner wrote:
              So what, that's the way they want you to do it, doesn't mean that's the only way to do it, I notice you have singularily failed to actually answer my question but have made a bald statement, so explain why you can't do it......
              ah, beg your pardon, i didn't quite understand what you meant, reading it again, carefully :lol: , i suppose it could be done that way, but you would need some type of rod to push it through with, either way, he's going to lose some oil, and either way it would be worth cleaning down and re oiling, so whats the point of just doing one side ? if your going to do the job, do it properly and not half arsed :wink:
              Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc 10- CANYON Nerve AM 6 2011
            • The Rookie
              The Rookie Posts: 27,812
              I agree, may as well do a full service and do it properly....but that aside (example it's just had a service) it does look like it can be done!
              Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
            • chez_m356
              chez_m356 Posts: 1,893
              The Beginner wrote:
              I agree, may as well do a full service and do it properly....but that aside (example it's just had a service) it does look like it can be done!
              i have some recon silver tk's that i recently serviced, same coil set up, and looking back, i don't see any reason why not, might just be bit more fiddly though, or then again it might not, but i certainly see what you mean now :)
              Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc 10- CANYON Nerve AM 6 2011

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