New Bike stem slips under force...normal?

kammybear
kammybear Posts: 500
edited November 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
I've installed a new carbon 3T stem and handlebar.

Everything seemed easy enough for a first timer but if I clamp the wheel between my feet And move the handlebar, the stem slips. I ordered some finish line carbon paste and it still slips. I've followed every instruction and tip
I can find and it still does.

I took the bike put for a spin and jumped some curbs etc and it all stays in place and there are no noises or anything and it all seems solid...I can't remember if the previous stem did it as
Well as I had no reason to check.

Is this "normal". I can't think of a real life situation where the wheel would get clamped and make the stem slip? Am I over thinking it all and worrying?

Comments

  • Levi_501
    Levi_501 Posts: 1,105
    Nip the bolts up a bit more.

    You do not want the stem to slip while you are riding, it will scare the sh one t out of you.
  • kammybear
    kammybear Posts: 500
    They've gone as far as they can!

    Only last resort I could think of was to remove the washers off two of the bolts but they appear to not be able to come off through the threaded bit!

    I put lots of carbon paste on but after the stem slids on, a lot of it gets pushed to the top which Ibe cleaned off before going further!

    It's doing my head in now but I guess it's a learning curve!

    Do you think it's worth going and getting some new bolts without the washers and use those instead? Looking at the opposite bolt, there is about 1-2mm of more threadable space
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Use a real stem. Carbon stems are pointless and expensive.
    But I wouldn't start messing with washers - it should fit - sure it's the right size?
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    kammybear wrote:
    They've gone as far as they can!
    That's a non sensicle answer, the stem clamps round the steerer, the more you do up the bolt the tighter it grips it as long as you don't go so tight it strips the thread, however there is no such thing as 'as far as they can'.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    Are you saying that the two sides of the stem now meet at the split? Otherwise just keep tightening.
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • Levi_501
    Levi_501 Posts: 1,105
    kammybear wrote:
    They've gone as far as they can!

    Sounds like you need...
  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    Any chance you could've bought a stem for a 1.5" steerer rather than 1.125"?
    Orbea Alma Team Carbon - Strava -Specialized Allez Sport
  • kammybear
    kammybear Posts: 500
    The two parts of the stem don't meet no, probably 2-3mm left.

    The problem I have is that the bolts on the right seem thread through the bolts on the left. In order to stop the left ones rotating, I have to lever an allen key in the left ones while I screw the right ones which leaves about 2mm that's unusable...but if I try threading them alone, they just rotate in place and dont go in the last 2mm...I'll have to figure something out!
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Bolts don't screw into bolts. Nuts maybe? Use a spanner. Nothing is designed to have an Allen key jammed down the side.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Maybe post a pic.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • kammybear
    kammybear Posts: 500
    All sorted now.

    Just experimented with the tightness of the two bottom bolts! Stiff as a porn stars penis now!

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