Chain giving higher resistance & starting to rust!?

hostman
hostman Posts: 104
edited November 2012 in Road beginners
Hi,

I've owned my bike for just over two months, I've cycled around 350 miles on it in that time, including some pretty wet riding on occasions. Since around last week I've noticed the chain is giving a bit of extra resistance and feels stiffer, it's also noticeably louder, particularly in the low gears. Also in different parts of the chain it appears to be rusting.

Is this expected after a relatively short period of time?

The bike I think would benefit from a good scrub and some lubing of the chain. I'm a cycling newbie, so any advice on what to use on the chain would be great.

Comments

  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    Do you lube it after heavy wet rides?
  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    If you have some dry lube on the chain, it can wash off in a rain session, and be rusty the next day. Wet lube is needed for this time of year :-)

    Dry conditions I use
    http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/finish-l ... tAodkAsALg

    Wet conditions or longer mileages I use
    http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/finish-l ... 60596.html
  • junglist_matty
    junglist_matty Posts: 1,731
    Tools...
    - Old kitchen scrubbing brush the long handle type scrubber
    - WD-40 (FOR CLEANING - NOT LUBE)
    - Wet chain lube (winter) - I use finish line
    - Chain cleaner device - I use the muck off chain doc system


    1. Get an old kitchen scrubbing brush
    2. Get some WD-40, if you don't have a bike service holder, put your bike upside down,
    3. Spin the pedals, put the gear into smallest cog position.
    4. Put brush on cassette and spin pedals so cassette cogs start getting brushed... Apply liberal amounts of WD-40 to the cogs, this is great for cleaning the cogs.
    5. Move the chain off smallest cog, clean that cog... Cassette should be nice and clean now and free of grit.....
    6. Brush the front rings clean of grit, use WD-40 to remove grit and grime
    7. Get a chain cleaner and clean the chain
    8. Get a chain lube (wet lube is good for winter) apply liberal amounts to chain and cassette cogs

    DONE.
  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    The old debate....WD40 can get into the hubs and strip the grease, and then its tough to get it all removed from the chain to apply new lube.
  • hostman
    hostman Posts: 104
    zx6man wrote:
    Do you lube it after heavy wet rides?

    I've not done anything to it other than ride it since buying it :p
  • lc1981
    lc1981 Posts: 820
    hostman wrote:
    I've not done anything to it other than ride it since buying it :p

    There's your answer then. It just needs a bit more TLC!
  • dodgy
    dodgy Posts: 2,890
    hostman wrote:
    zx6man wrote:
    Do you lube it after heavy wet rides?

    I've not done anything to it other than ride it since buying it :p

    350 miles, rain, increased resistance, chain getting louder, you haven't lubed it.

    Nope, I've no idea what the problem is.

    Everyone will have different chain hygiene habits, some will remove the chain, some will scrub with a brush, some will wipe with a rag. But one thing we all have in common is to drop some oil on the chain from time to time.

    For me, it's every 100 miles, or after every wet ride.
  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    dodgy wrote:
    For me, it's every 100 miles, or after every wet ride.

    Yup, simple, I have done one chain that lasted about 4000 miles with just a wipe and a lube, and one lasted 4000 ish miles with regular removal/cleaning etc...
  • simon_masterson
    simon_masterson Posts: 2,740
    Yep, just a case of chain needing lube. Green Oil goes on my bikes, but I'd happily recommend Finish Line 'Cross Country' (the one in the green bottle) to anyone; it works, it's cheap and you can get it everywhere (in more than one sense). It's better to use a proper degreaser (not white spirit) and a stiff brush of some sort to scrub the road muck out as this is what will ruin your chain, but ultimately this will happen anyway and it'll happen a good deal quicker if you don't lubricate it.
    Retro(ish) TT 2017-
    Fixed TT 2015-2016
  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    Side note, KMC website says a massive no to using solvent/ degreasers on chains.....

    http://www.kmcchain.eu/?en/maintenance/
  • getprg
    getprg Posts: 245
    Tools...
    - Old kitchen scrubbing brush the long handle type scrubber
    - WD-40 (FOR CLEANING - NOT LUBE)
    - Wet chain lube (winter) - I use finish line
    - Chain cleaner device - I use the muck off chain doc system


    1. Get an old kitchen scrubbing brush
    2. Get some WD-40, if you don't have a bike service holder, put your bike upside down,
    3. Spin the pedals, put the gear into smallest cog position.
    4. Put brush on cassette and spin pedals so cassette cogs start getting brushed... Apply liberal amounts of WD-40 to the cogs, this is great for cleaning the cogs.
    5. Move the chain off smallest cog, clean that cog... Cassette should be nice and clean now and free of grit.....
    6. Brush the front rings clean of grit, use WD-40 to remove grit and grime
    7. Get a chain cleaner and clean the chain
    8. Get a chain lube (wet lube is good for winter) apply liberal amounts to chain and cassette cogs

    DONE.

    Phewwwwww - I would be done after all that!

    An oft exercised debate but FWIW an alternative view is this:

    If you are a regular commuter or rider (I am) then frankly you could spend more time cleaning the chain/bike than riding it during winter! So my routine is fit mudguards - if the bike is dirty (and still wet) give whole bike a rinse when you get home (with either a watering can or gentle hose using a sprinkler head) and bounce surplus water off - leather off the worst or put in kitchen to dry (SWMBO loves that bit). Next morning check to see if any rust on chain - if yes give it a quick oil (use a wet weather oil) if not - ride it. Always get a smooth ride from my chain using this approach even when clarted (Yorkshire term?) up with dirt and oil. Remember to check chain for wear every couple of weeks once it has been on for a few weeks (get a chain checker). I get about 4 to 6 months out of chain dry or wet - summer or winter.
  • alihisgreat
    alihisgreat Posts: 3,872
    zx6man wrote:
    The old debate....WD40 can get into the hubs and strip the grease, and then its tough to get it all removed from the chain to apply new lube.

    As long as you use a degreaser to clean the chain afterwards its not a massive issue.
  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    ALIHISGREAT wrote:
    zx6man wrote:
    The old debate....WD40 can get into the hubs and strip the grease, and then its tough to get it all removed from the chain to apply new lube.

    As long as you use a degreaser to clean the chain afterwards its not a massive issue.

    So may as well just use the degreaser and not wd40 as they are normally water rinsable :-)
  • hostman
    hostman Posts: 104
    So I've popped to evans cycles near by during lunch and picked up the bits and bobs I need - Thanks guys.
  • dodgy
    dodgy Posts: 2,890
    I'd also suspect a chain that has been allowed to rust and not be lubed for 350 miles might have worn excessively relative to a well cared for chain. Might be worth having the chain measured just in case, either have the bike shop do it, or google 'measure chain wear'.
  • alihisgreat
    alihisgreat Posts: 3,872
    zx6man wrote:
    ALIHISGREAT wrote:
    zx6man wrote:
    The old debate....WD40 can get into the hubs and strip the grease, and then its tough to get it all removed from the chain to apply new lube.

    As long as you use a degreaser to clean the chain afterwards its not a massive issue.

    So may as well just use the degreaser and not wd40 as they are normally water rinsable :-)

    WD-40 is better for displacing grit and dirt from inside the links.. a normal degreaser generally only takes off the surface dirt and grit.
  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    Degreasers are called that because they, de-grease..... ?? they work that way for me :-)
  • junglist_matty
    junglist_matty Posts: 1,731
    zx6man wrote:
    Degreasers are called that because they, de-grease..... ?? they work that way for me :-)

    Whichever you want.... From my own experience in 15 years of riding is that WD-40 is the best (and fastest) at cleaning grime and grit off the cogs.... I clean my chain once a week in the winter (every 150miles).

    By the way, if you buy a brand new chain, there's no need to clean it (unless silly dirty) as the waxy grease that comes with a chain is the best chain lube by a long long way and doesn't come off easily, so a quick brush to the cogs is good enough.
  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    everyone has there own way as mentioned, as long as you do clean it and lube it its good enough. I just got the WD 40 when I used it too near the bearings at the back (cheapish hibs so just has a little rubber cover. It got in and blitzed the grease, so I tend to add to rag/brush then clean the cogs instead of direct spray.
  • CiB
    CiB Posts: 6,098
    junglist_matty wrote:
    By the way, if you buy a brand new chain, there's no need to clean it (unless silly dirty) as the waxy grease that comes with a chain is the best chain lube by a long long way and doesn't come off easily, so a quick brush to the cogs is good enough.
    The waxy grease stays on the surface but I wouldn't be so sure about relying on it where it matters, inside in the rollers where the action is and where the lube is really needed. I put a brand new KMC on a week & half ago and it needed oiling after this morning, despite the waxy protection still being there on the outer faces of the links.
  • navrig
    navrig Posts: 1,352
    junglist_matty wrote:
    zx6man wrote:
    Degreasers are called that because they, de-grease..... ?? they work that way for me :-)

    Whichever you want.... From my own experience in 15 years of riding is that WD-40 is the best (and fastest) at cleaning grime and grit off the cogs.... I clean my chain once a week in the winter (every 150miles).

    Cheaper and more effective way is t use something like:

    Laitner-Iron-Handle-Nylon-Scrub.jpg

    Take the wheel off and brush against the freewheel. The big handle reduces the chances of chapped fingers. The nylon bristles don't absorb oil or grease. Its washable.

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