slipping seat post!

hopper1
hopper1 Posts: 4,389
edited November 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
Went out for a shake down ride on the Scale today, but the bloody seat post kept slipping!
I'm hoping it was just down to my error of not using any carbon paste before assembly (done now!).
Using an ultra light seat clamp limits the clamp torque to 4Nm's, too, so I can't go daft on that part.
Also have a shim in there, are these known for being troublesome?
Hope to God, it's just the lack of paste that caused it, but tomorrow will tell...
Start with a budget, finish with a mortgage!

Comments

  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    What's your question?

    Use paste and buy a better clamp will sort it.
  • hopper1
    hopper1 Posts: 4,389
    The question is the bit that precede's the question mark!

    Paste has been applied now, too...
    Start with a budget, finish with a mortgage!
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    no.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    I reccomend throwing the ultralight clamp as far as you can then fitting a proper clamp. Ultralight clamps are for road bikes not MTBikes.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    Make sure the Shim 'split' is in line with the frame split. Ive found when they're out of line they can tighten up together but not be tight enough.
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    stubs wrote:
    I reccomend throwing the ultralight clamp as far as you can then fitting a proper clamp. Ultralight clamps are for road bikes not MTBikes.
    With the same weight sitting on them, that isn't really that logical?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    benpinnick wrote:
    Make sure the Shim 'split' is in line with the frame split. Ive found when they're out of line they can tighten up together but not be tight enough.
    makes little diference and in some cases it should be 180 degrees to the frame and clamp split.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • hopper1
    hopper1 Posts: 4,389
    Cheers, guys.
    The 'split' in both shim and tube is inline. If the problem happens again, I may try the opposed position.
    Start with a budget, finish with a mortgage!
  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    Yeah, worth a try. Some companies say 180 deg. some say in line. Ive found through experience my USE shim and Thomson post combo only stay put when they're in line.
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • 70\ʹspenguin
    70\ʹspenguin Posts: 957
    If it doesnt work then i really recommend one of these http://www.carboncycles.cc/?s=0&t=2&c=73&p=852& providing they have your size. Its not weenie weight but it really works. (i had terrible problems with my Thomson post on my old frame and this worked wonders!)
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    The Beginner wrote:
    stubs wrote:
    I reccomend throwing the ultralight clamp as far as you can then fitting a proper clamp. Ultralight clamps are for road bikes not MTBikes.
    With the same weight sitting on them, that isn't really that logical?

    Because you dont just sit on a MTB like a bump on a saddle. Your banging your backside down on the saddle at regular intervals, if its a hardtail then hitting a rock or pothole sat down is a good thump lots and lots of reasons why a flyweight weight weenie clamp is not a good idea. Unless your 8 stone wet and have the riding skills of a world champ that is.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    70\'sPenguin wrote:
    If it doesnt work then i really recommend one of these http://www.carboncycles.cc/?s=0&t=2&c=73&p=852& providing they have your size. Its not weenie weight but it really works. (i had terrible problems with my Thomson post on my old frame and this worked wonders!)

    Seems like a tiny bit of an overkill to me! :lol: i'd be very disappointed if it didn't work!
    Orbea Alma Team Carbon - Strava -Specialized Allez Sport
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    stubs wrote:
    The Beginner wrote:
    stubs wrote:
    I reccomend throwing the ultralight clamp as far as you can then fitting a proper clamp. Ultralight clamps are for road bikes not MTBikes.
    With the same weight sitting on them, that isn't really that logical?

    Because you dont just sit on a MTB like a bump on a saddle. Your banging your backside down on the saddle at regular intervals, if its a hardtail then hitting a rock or pothole sat down is a good thump lots and lots of reasons why a flyweight weight weenie clamp is not a good idea. Unless your 8 stone wet and have the riding skills of a world champ that is.
    The clamping force from a thinner clamp will be better than a fatter one as the same torque applied from the bolt will see less reaction from the clamp, also 'potholes' are a road feature.

    A lightweight clamp really does clamp just as well as a heavy one right up to point of failure, this one hasn't failed so your argument really doesn't stand up.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.

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