Bleed brakes through caliper only

lappymatt
lappymatt Posts: 331
edited November 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi all sorry if this has been asked recently

I have rounded off the bleed bolt on the brake lever :twisted: so cannot get it out to bleed them.

So can I carry out a bleed process by using the caliper only? I have a bleed kit.

Thanks all :D

Comments

  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    What model of brake. Because the answer can be Yes, No, Maybe depending on brake
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  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    You will be able to bleed the caliper with a syringe by sucking some fresh brake fluid into syringe and connecting to caliper by screwing syringe and its adaptor into the bleed port. Then you can carefully apply gentle pressure to syringe then gently pulling on the syringe plunger to create a vacuum, this will pull air bubbles out of the caliper. If there is air in the hose or the lever mastercylinder then your boned.
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  • .... oh I should add I have fitted a new hose, that's the reason for the bleed.

    Grrr thanks mate I am going to try one last time with a flat head screw driver to get the bolt out.

    Ta
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    Have you totally butchered the bleed screw. Never worked on a Elixir 5 but I presume its the same screw and location as other Elixir master cylinders. If thats the case it will be a T10 torx I think (not sure of that check it out first) get a quality T10 key put a thin piece of rag on the tip and you might get enough purchase to shift the screw. The rag is to fill in the damage to the screw.
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  • thistle_
    thistle_ Posts: 7,218
    When you fitted the hose, did you fill it with degassed fluid from the caliper before you connected it onto the lever?

    I bought some Shimano brakes and had to shorten the hose. It was (almost) as simple as taking the old hose off, cutting it while still full of fluid then sticking it back on because the system was still full of fluid.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    meta55matt wrote:
    Hi all sorry if this has been asked recently

    I have rounded off the bleed bolt on the brake lever :twisted: so cannot get it out to bleed them.

    So can I carry out a bleed process by using the caliper only? I have a bleed kit.

    Thanks all :D
    use the bleed port on the other side.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • stubs wrote:
    Have you totally butchered the bleed screw. Never worked on a Elixir 5 but I presume its the same screw and location as other Elixir master cylinders. If thats the case it will be a T10 torx I think (not sure of that check it out first) get a quality T10 key put a thin piece of rag on the tip and you might get enough purchase to shift the screw. The rag is to fill in the damage to the screw.


    Yeah butchered it mate beyond recognition. It is now a perfect circle haha.

    When you fitted the hose, did you fill it with degassed fluid from the caliper before you connected it onto the lever?

    I bought some Shimano brakes and had to shorten the hose. It was (almost) as simple as taking the old hose off, cutting it while still full of fluid then sticking it back on because the system was still full of fluid.


    I think I will do this, take the hose back off, fill lever with fliud (degassed) then fill hose and fit hose. Then try bleeding that way.


    Nick - couldn't find any other port on the other side.
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    Unbolt the lever assembly and clamp it in a vice so that the bleed screw is dead vertical. Get a good quality T10 bit (not a screwdriver or key) any good hardware or motor factors should be able to sell you a single one not a whole set. Degrease the master cylinder bleed screw and the T10 bit. Get some liquid metal like JB Weld or similar mix it well in the correct proportions put a dab into the butchered hole poke it well in to make sure there are no air bubbles use a cocktail stick or similar then press the bit into the liquid metal what you are trying to do is fill all the holes you made. Leave it for 24 hours somewhere warm to really set solid, then put a blob of brake fluid on to try and lube and release the threads. Then very carefully trying to put only downward pressure not side pressure try and undo the screw. If you get it out throw in bin and order a new one.

    It might work I have managed to shift similarly butchered Magneto and points screws on old cars and M/bikes.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    meta55matt wrote:
    When you fitted the hose, did you fill it with degassed fluid from the caliper before you connected it onto the lever?

    I bought some Shimano brakes and had to shorten the hose. It was (almost) as simple as taking the old hose off, cutting it while still full of fluid then sticking it back on because the system was still full of fluid.


    I think I will do this, take the hose back off, fill lever with fliud (degassed) then fill hose and fit hose. Then try bleeding that way.

    You will need to leave the hose disconnected at the lever and push fresh fluid up from caliper till it bubbles out of the hose then reconnect you might get away with it.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • Will give that a go, cheers for the help Stubs.
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    Chain Reaction are selling off Elixir 1 brakes for £34.99 Elixir 1 If nothing works you could buy one and just use the lever assembly I believe all Avids use the same threads and fittings.
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Can you use a dremel or similar to cut a screwdriver slot in it? Usually works for me.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    Can you use a dremel or similar to cut a screwdriver slot in it? Usually works for me.

    Though I am not 100% certain as I have never worked on that particular model, most Elixir lever bleed screws are flush with the body of the assembly and getting a Dremel to cut might make a mess of the alloy. I have a set of tiny easy outs that might have pulled the screw out but going by the OPs description it sounds like its too far gone. Another possibility is seeing if a T15 bit can be bashed in or an Allen key bit. Though it would have to be done carefully so as not to damage the soft alloy or the Taperbore piston.

    Moral of the tale "Buy the right tools" :lol:
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I got a rounded recessed out of a Shimano calliper, wear down a cutting disc until it's just big enough.....sorted.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Biggus86
    Biggus86 Posts: 385
    As said above, as well as cutting screwdriver slot into it, you could get some small "EZ outs" to extract the rounded bolt.
    If you buy a new lever, you can still do this and have a spare lever assy
  • I'd rather try and bleed with the bolt still in there - the only reason I am doing this whole escapade is because I accidently put my stanley knife blade through the old hose when giving the bike a service so this is a cost i did not need/want :twisted: :lol:
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You need a hole at the lever end somewhere to let air out.....you could try just loosening the hose so you can bleed from caliper to end of hose, but that won't bleed the lever or fill it. Seeing as how you cut a hose and then rounded the bolt out by accident, perhaps you should get a shop to help?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Haha no mate I am a fully qualified car mechanic and have the tools and ability to work on a bike, I was merely rushing and overlooked a couple of things so my fault as to why this has happened. No biggy.
  • First, nice avatar.

    Second, some good suggestions above for screw removal. Personally I've previously used a 1mm or 1.5mm drill, to open up two small recesses 180deg apart, and shoved a flat blade into them - a lot like the dremel + disc approach.