Front mech woes
SteviePCommencal
Posts: 120
G'Day!
I am having trouble with my Trek Scratch and the front mech, its the 2010 9spd model and currently has an SLX direct mount currently fitted. I have removed the outer chainring and have fitted a 36 tooth chainring.
My problem is that the front mech sits far too high on the frame, I have lowered it as far as it will go but it still drags when on the granny ring and allows the chain to bounce off when on the middle.
My question is, would it be possible to fit a Sram 2 x 10 front mech?, they seem to have a much longer distance between the mount and the cage so would hopefully fit a lot better, there also seems a lot more adjustment on the mounting point
I am having trouble with my Trek Scratch and the front mech, its the 2010 9spd model and currently has an SLX direct mount currently fitted. I have removed the outer chainring and have fitted a 36 tooth chainring.
My problem is that the front mech sits far too high on the frame, I have lowered it as far as it will go but it still drags when on the granny ring and allows the chain to bounce off when on the middle.
My question is, would it be possible to fit a Sram 2 x 10 front mech?, they seem to have a much longer distance between the mount and the cage so would hopefully fit a lot better, there also seems a lot more adjustment on the mounting point
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Comments
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As the current mech should be fine in the Granny (it was sold to work with it) it suggests you've messed something up?
What gears at the rear does it drag in?Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
What model of SLX is it?0
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Right, just had a look for the model number but can't find anything
It's a 2010 high direct mount mech.
See, usually I bugger things up but on this occasion I don't think I have! There is a small amount of vertical movement and the chain is scraping on all but the largest 3 rings on the cassette. It is the standard mech and it is the standard 22 tooth chainring0 -
You have lowered it too much! You need to set it up as if there was a big ring still on there. Assuming it worked ok before?0
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Nah, it has been like this since I bought the bike (secondhand about 4 weeks ago)
Definitely doesn't need to be raised! Its almost as if the mounting hole on the frame has been drilled in too high
The reason I was wondering about a Sram mech was because there seems to be a lot more scope for adjustment, but I'm a little worried as they are narrower being 10spd0 -
Stick a pic up.I don't do smileys.
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Parktools0 -
Here you go..
Please ignore wotsit the cats bowl
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Yeah, but not too sure what can be done about the height.0
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Yep!
But it won't go any lower!
New mech time, but what will be better?0 -
Edit: Never mind, was talking shoyte.0
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I wonder if it's a trecking mech designed for bigger rings, you need the M number, most likely stamped in the back of the cage.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Just found it and its m661
I thought this was standard SLX0 -
M661 is indeed SLX, I know direct mount can be funny, on-one do a guide for the 456's which show what will and win't fit.
Tech docs
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 686238.pdfCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
did it work before you took the chain ring off?opinions are worth exactly what you pay for them ;-)
2012 boardman team F/S tarting has begun..
1992 cannondale m1000 still going just0
