Sektor solo air tk Setup

craigw
craigw Posts: 5
edited November 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
hi i'm needing a bit of help setting up my fork. for info im about 14 stone.
When i set up with 20% sag i blow through most of the travel if i'm compressing into jumps/ out of saddle climbs and if rolling drops slowly of about 2-3 feet when the front lands it compresses so much its sometimes sends me over the bars :( on the plus side it is very plush over the small chattery stuff what i want to do is maintain this nice feel at the start of the stroke but for the compression to ramp up more in the mid to end of stroke. the fork only has lock out (with blow off valve) and rebound adjust at the bottom. can i get what i want from this fork or is it something else i need?

Comments

  • Play around with your air pressures to find a happy medium..
    How are you setting the 20% sag?
  • in attack position fully loaded done by the o ring
  • bennett_346
    bennett_346 Posts: 5,029
    craigw wrote:
    and if rolling drops slowly of about 2-3 feet when the front lands it compresses so much its sometimes sends me over the bars
    If it is really at 20% sag then this is just poor technique.
    craigw wrote:
    what i want to do is maintain this nice feel at the start of the stroke but for the compression to ramp up more in the mid to end of stroke. the fork only has lock out (with blow off valve) and rebound adjust at the bottom.
    Unfortunately you cannot control the feel of the fork in this way unless you buy a motion control unit and put it in the fork.
  • ^ your prob right about the first :oops:
    motion control unit is this loads of £££ ? they will due due a service after winter i guess it could be done then..
    who does that sort of thing?
  • bennett_346
    bennett_346 Posts: 5,029
    A bit over £100 to have it fitted during a service i'd expect. Could be more, probably not less.
  • well I've re looked at my position on the bike. stationary i was getting 20% sag but when moving, my weight was further forward than i thought and so i was getting about 35% sag! 'ive whacked more psi in it and i'll see how it goes...
    its now at 150psi so i hope it doesn't effect the small stuff so much :D
  • DCR00
    DCR00 Posts: 2,160
    you can get a MoCo comp damper for £65 from JE James

    http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/rockshox ... 66585.html

    i would replace the rebound damper as well
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Or just set them up right and save a lot of money.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • DCR00
    DCR00 Posts: 2,160
    that as well

    changing the rebound damper does make a significant different to how the fork will handle, probably more so than the comp damper. I only changed mine cause i wanted some adjustment. It would have been fine without change.
  • craigw99
    craigw99 Posts: 224
    edited November 2012
    you are prob right the thing is... to me what seems right for general riding is too soft when doing steep tech decents and for jumps. i'm looking for something : a switch/ damper /setting / whatever to give me a firmer setting without having full lock out on. any tips on how to get this with what i have or do i need a new damper as suggested above? what benefit would i get from changing the rebound damper? what would it allow me to change?
    opinions are worth exactly what you pay for them ;-)
    2012 boardman team F/S tarting has begun..
    1992 cannondale m1000 still going just
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    craigw99 wrote:
    i'm looking for something : a switch/ damper /setting / whatever to give me a firmer setting without having full lock out on.
    not happening on ANY fork.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • DCR00
    DCR00 Posts: 2,160
    craigw99 wrote:
    what benefit would i get from changing the rebound damper? what would it allow me to change?

    it wont effect what you have described above as thats a compression issue

    fitting a dual flow rebound damper will make the fork more composed over the rough stuff, lessening some of the packing down you get with the more basic rebound dampers
  • craigw99
    craigw99 Posts: 224
    ^ thanks for that
    Nicklouse can i get a setting that ramps up more ie soft start then after say 2" of travel gets much harder to compress?
    i guess a bit like fox CTD (or maybe not - never tried it!) do you get what im looking for or can it not be done ?

    as bennet_346 said about Motion control may give me what i want
    opinions are worth exactly what you pay for them ;-)
    2012 boardman team F/S tarting has begun..
    1992 cannondale m1000 still going just
  • bennett_346
    bennett_346 Posts: 5,029
    Motion control doesn't control ramp up, it controls the speed that the forks compress to the position they are going to compress to. IE if a bump compresses the fork 50mm, the motion control will slow down/speed up how fast it reaches that 50mm of travel depending on how you set it, but wherever you set it it will always reach that 50mm.

    Air pressure controls how much travel it uses IE less pressure will result in that 50mm being say, 60mm for the same bump instead.

    You cannot control the ramp up of forks, it's a fairly preset characteristic of each individual forks' air spring assembly (though some rear air shocks can have their volume reduced off the bike by inserting spacers which increase/decrease the ramp up to an extent).
  • craigw99
    craigw99 Posts: 224
    I'm going to get the motion control rlt damper shortly i was wondering do i need to totaly dismantle my forks or can i just swap out the damper unit and leave the rest in place?
    opinions are worth exactly what you pay for them ;-)
    2012 boardman team F/S tarting has begun..
    1992 cannondale m1000 still going just
  • DCR00
    DCR00 Posts: 2,160
    you dont need to take the forks apart to change out the comp damper. It just unscrews.

    make sure you have enough oil in the fork after the swap, otherwise the damper wont work as intended
  • craigw99
    craigw99 Posts: 224
    thanks am i better to pour out whats left in the tube and then fill with fresh oil or just leave the old one to drip and then replace what collects in the jar?
    opinions are worth exactly what you pay for them ;-)
    2012 boardman team F/S tarting has begun..
    1992 cannondale m1000 still going just
  • DCR00
    DCR00 Posts: 2,160
    i would tip out and replace, that way you know you have the right amount in there