Raleigh Sun Solo

adamg1987
adamg1987 Posts: 8
edited November 2012 in Your road bikes
Plan is to rebuild it up, new wheels tyres, bars etc im knew to road bikes so would appreciate any help.
ive been looking at wheels the originals are 27 x 1 1/4 can i change these for more modern wheels such as 700c x 23

few pictures

20121029_151232.jpg

20121029_151223.jpg

Comments

  • you should be able to fit 700c wheels in no problem.. you may need to change/adjust the brakes to fit the slightly smaller rim size.. might need to get long drop calipers.
    the bigger issue will be the rear hub can't see how many sprockets you have on the back or the size of the rear dropout, but most modern 700c wheelsets will have a 130mm hub which will fit 8/9/10 speed cassettes. depending on the age this bike could have 120 or 126mm rear dropouts.
    It all comes down to how much you want to spend and what you want the bike to look like?
    modern brake/shifters - retro downtube shifters? stick with the same number of gears ( you may be able to use the old hubs on new rims?) or have more sprockets in which case you'll need a new wheelset?
  • 5 speed on the rear will have to check the rear drop outs tommorrow
  • dropouts are 120mm what does this limit me too wheel wise?
  • well, ive stripped the bike now, ive decided to put some carbon forks on and convert to a threadless steerer, im going to cold set the frame to 130mm rear dropouts and source a set of 700c wheels
  • Danny87
    Danny87 Posts: 121
    Any idea which forks? Stripped a similar old frame myself recently, have cold set the back from 120 to 130mm easy peasy :)

    Oh also measure the brake drop before you replace the brakes may find the drop to be like 60-70mm on these oldies where as modern frames/brakes are like 50mm-ish.
  • Hi Danny, thanks for your interest im watching a few forks on ebay at the moment just need to research what will be suitable and then research new stem and headset then go from there really.
  • ed_j
    ed_j Posts: 335
    adamg1987 wrote:
    Hi Danny, thanks for your interest im watching a few forks on ebay at the moment just need to research what will be suitable and then research new stem and headset then go from there really.

    Forks come in 2 sizes, 1 inch and 1 1/8 inch. Make sure the forks you're watching are 1 inch.
  • Wow! My mind is cast back to 1981 when I had one of these for a couple of years before getting a Raleigh Rapide with 531 tubing and my first hit of Campag. Out in all weathers, paper round before and after school, cycle to/from school, a quick 10 or 25 miles in the evening and a couple of 50's at the weekend. All wearing jeans, trainers and a snorkel parka with not a drinks bottle or energy gel in sight. Ahh..the joy of youth.
    Summer - Giant Defy Composite 2 (Force 22) (retd)
    Cannondale Synapse Sram Red ETap
    Winter - Boardman CX Team (Rival X1 Hyd)
  • Ye been watching a few 1" forks but seems to be a bit thin on the ground at the moment
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    Cold setting the rear drop outs from 120 to 130 is quite a change, 5mm each side. You'll need to realign the drop outs as well, since they will no longer be parallel after cold setting the stays. However I would expect the steel to be quite flexible, unlike 753 stays! Another option is to cold set to 126mm and find some NOS hubs which are 7 speed.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • ed_j
    ed_j Posts: 335
    drlodge wrote:
    Cold setting the rear drop outs from 120 to 130 is quite a change, 5mm each side. You'll need to realign the drop outs as well, since they will no longer be parallel after cold setting the stays. However I would expect the steel to be quite flexible, unlike 753 stays! Another option is to cold set to 126mm and find some NOS hubs which are 7 speed.

    I'd do this too. Ebay a sachs-maillard rear hub, seven speed screw on freewheel, build it onto an open pro job done. Front wheel can be anything...
  • RideOnTime
    RideOnTime Posts: 4,712
    :D:D
  • secretsam
    secretsam Posts: 5,098
    Here's some advice for you (and I mean this in good faith): don't spend any real money on this, it was a cheap bike in its day. There's an insane fixation on old steel bikes at the moment and everyone seems to assume that steel = good, regardless - but there was some fairly poor quality steel back then, so don't be fooled. This was the equivalent of what would be a £250-£300 bike these days; except that a £300 bike now would actually be a much better bike (indexed gears, brakes that work, etc)

    Sorry to be all Mr Miserable but that's the way it is, in my eyes

    It's just a hill. Get over it.