Few possible upgrades...

DanDax1990
DanDax1990 Posts: 1,201
edited October 2012 in MTB buying advice
Hi guys, Looking at making a few upgrades mainly to cut some weight.

Thinking of new all-round tyres. I run tubes and Maxxis High Roller 2.35 front and rear which came on the bike when I bought it, Would I benefit from new/lighter tyres? If so, Which do you recommend?

Also thinking of a new 3x9 crankset, This is the current one as standard. http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shim ... aid:443796

New rear mech, Current one as standard is http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shim ... aid:368017

Which do you recommend I upgrade to that doesn't break the bank?

And wouldn't mind some new brakes, Currently running Tektro Auriga Comp front and rear but they don't seem to be very good to me or is this just a case of not set-up properly? They were recently bled by LBS and he said there should be no problems with them now...

Looking at getting a new wheelset from Superstar in the future too.

Cheers for any input.

Comments

  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Don't bother with cranks and derailer, will make no noticable difference. Tyres though ill, look for some xc based kevlar beaded tyres.
  • DanDax1990
    DanDax1990 Posts: 1,201
    Cheers supersonic, What about wheels? The £130 Superstars the obvious ones to go for?
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Might not be much of an upgrade over what you have.
  • DanDax1990
    DanDax1990 Posts: 1,201
    Ok, Wanting New wheels for a couple of reasons mainly to cut some weight and also so I have a spare set with my commuting tyres on... May try and learn how to true wheels myself too using spare set...
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Weigh what you have ;-)
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    It's probably easier (and certainly cheaper) to just swap tyres when you need them. Changing wheels will normally mean the brake calipers need a bit of adjustment and the rear mech needs reindexing.
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  • DanDax1990
    DanDax1990 Posts: 1,201
    Yeah good point, I still want a new shiny set so I can use my old to learn how to true wheels myself, Is it just me or is that a decent idea? lol.

    Another, Would a new/better rear cassette cut a half decent ammount of weight?

    What's the easiest ways to cut weight apart from a carbon frame? lol
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Foam grips, tyres, tubes, then weight the rest of the finishing kit like bars/saddle/stem/seatpost/pedals.
  • felix.london
    felix.london Posts: 4,067
    New cassette can shed nearly 200g (obviously depending on what you're running now) - I went from a 9sp (11-34) HG50 to a 10sp (11-32) XT and was amazed at the weight difference.

    Don't know what wheels you're running now but if you want a set from Superstar I should think the Crests/Switch EVO's will save you a fair chunk of weight too.

    I've shed 2kg of the Rockhopper without even trying to shed weight i.e. I've put on a dropper post, AM wheels & tyres, bashguard, Enduro/DH rated hubs etc...Be prepared for the wallet to take a hammering though

    I just upgraded to tougher kit (which happened to be lighter too) in an attempt to make the bike more suited to where I'm riding

    What fork are you running? Obviously going from a coil to air sprung unit will be a big weight saver too
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

    Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build

    Trek Session 8
  • DanDax1990
    DanDax1990 Posts: 1,201
    140mm Epicon, I'm also wanting to upgrade to tougher and lighter parts too seems as I'm a fat ba*tard lol mainly better wheels, My current rims are Alex Rims SX44, The hubs are unbranded.

    Might upgrade to XT cranks, Mechs and some better brakes but not sure if I need new brakes or if they just need setting up properly/better... I had them bled by my lbs Friday but they still seem abit crap... They seemed better a couple of months ago.
  • If you aren't using or needing the travel on the fork then you could look at flogging them and getting something lighter in a 100mm stylee.. Losing weight from the wheels will make the biggest difference overall as you will actually "feel" it most, but you need to weigh them to see if its worth a £200 outlay.

    The Xt cassette is a good price on CRC but the SLX is only a little heavier and a tenner cheaper elsewhere.

    Your new bars and stem, whilst being carbon, are quite heavy, so you could look there too.

    I wouldnt touch the crank unless you are dropping sprockets.

    As for brakes - If you want to lose weight (100g) then the formula RX are a good deal on bike-discount.de. They will perform much better than what you have.
    Alternately, save money and get the new deores/slx
  • DanDax1990
    DanDax1990 Posts: 1,201
    How will it feel with 100mm forks though? Big difference there and I like the feel of the bike at the mo...

    Gonna weigh the parts I wanna upgrade soon just need some decent scales
  • felix.london
    felix.london Posts: 4,067
    ...if you changed to a 22/36 double ring set up not only would you save weight by losing the big ring but also if you did swap to a 11-32t cassette (you'd save weight there as mentioned) but also you could change to a medium cage mech, saving even more weight
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

    Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build

    Trek Session 8
  • DanDax1990
    DanDax1990 Posts: 1,201
    I wanted to keep it triple up front ideally... I do a fair bit of hilly commuting...
  • DanDax1990 wrote:
    I wanted to keep it triple up front ideally... I do a fair bit of hilly commuting...

    You would still keep the granny for the hills though.
  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    I have the same brakes and I've noticed the same thing. Instead of replacing them though, I've just decided I'm gonna save up and buy a lovely Radon bike. Shimano Deore M596's are worth a look too on rose bikes.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    DanDax1990 wrote:
    I wanted to keep it triple up front ideally... I do a fair bit of hilly commuting...
    Threy must be very steep to need a triple! My commuter runs a single 46T and I use an 11-28 cassette and get up all the local hills OK!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • DanDax1990
    DanDax1990 Posts: 1,201
    I do go up one very steep and long hill quite often... I've tried a double but its just a bit too much. The steepness is fine its just the distance.

    I may go for some brakes from bike-discount.de think the ones I seen were 596's also.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    DanDax1990 wrote:
    I wanted to keep it triple up front ideally... I do a fair bit of hilly commuting...
    Threy must be very steep to need a triple! My commuter runs a single 46T and I use an 11-28 cassette and get up all the local hills OK!

    He does, he lives in Yorkshire!
  • DanDax1990
    DanDax1990 Posts: 1,201
    supersonic wrote:
    DanDax1990 wrote:
    I wanted to keep it triple up front ideally... I do a fair bit of hilly commuting...
    Threy must be very steep to need a triple! My commuter runs a single 46T and I use an 11-28 cassette and get up all the local hills OK!

    He does, he lives in Yorkshire!

    Yeah but not for much longer hopefully! Well atleast not in Bradford, Hate it!