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rusty chain

pesky_jonespesky_jones Posts: 2,890
edited October 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
So my chain appears to have got very rusty over the last couple of days - but i don't have any chain degreaser/lube left. What i do have is disc brake cleaner / degreaser and no money. Can i use the degreaser to clean the chain? seeing as its probally just doing the same thing.

Also second question. Is there anyway of getting the chain off whilst keeping the chain whole?

Posts

  • warpcowwarpcow Posts: 1,448
    MTB_TR wrote:
    Can i use the degreaser to clean the chain? seeing as its probally just doing the same thing.

    Also second question. Is there anyway of getting the chain off whilst keeping the chain whole?

    I suspect the root of the problem may already be a lack of 'grease'. Does it need to be cleaned or just lubed?

    Check whether the chain has a quick-link (SRAM Powerlink or similar). If not, you can break the chain and then fit one to make it easier in future.
    Commie Meta SL
    Evil Sovereign
    Santa Cruz Heckler (gone)
    On One Inbred (gone)
    Ragley Mmmbop (gone)
  • benpinnickbenpinnick Posts: 4,148
    No need to clean. Wipe aggressively with a dry rag, most of the rust will come off. Lube and ride. The rest of the rust wil go in the riding.

    I'm answer to your second question, not of you have a front mech.
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • pesky_jonespesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    I've got grease :) but i take it i can't use it on the chain haha. Well its quite rusty so it looks like it needs a clean. I'm going to have to wait till next month if it needs lube as going abroad at the end of week and neeed every penny :cry:
  • warpcowwarpcow Posts: 1,448
    Rust is not dirt!
    Commie Meta SL
    Evil Sovereign
    Santa Cruz Heckler (gone)
    On One Inbred (gone)
    Ragley Mmmbop (gone)
  • pesky_jonespesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    to clean something is to remove dirt or unwanted material? i didnt know i had to put it like "i want to remove the rust from my chain" but does this mean i can't do anything till have lube?
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,802
    Pretty much, also once a chain goes rusty it will go rusty more easily in the future....for a few quid just get a new one - and some chain lube!

    You have to split the chain to get it through most front mechs (unless you have a screw closure) and out the rear triangle (HT's).
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • pesky_jonespesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    Ok cheers dude. Yeah i think a new chain ASWELL as chain lube is a must. But as for chain degreaser for when i want to clean it...do i have to buy special chain degreaser of will my disc brake cleaner/ degreaser do the trick?
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,802
    Why do you need to degrease it, just add lube and leave it!
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • pesky_jonespesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    Oh i was under the impression is what good to degrease the chain, clean it, and relube it every now and again. No worries!
  • benpinnickbenpinnick Posts: 4,148
    You can use almost any kind of lube as long as your sparing... Got a bottle of car oil kicking around? That will do. Put some on a rag and wipe onto the chain. Just go easy so that you dont attract more censored by over oiling than you take off. Bike lube specific stuff is better, but not absolutely necessary for the job.

    + 1 for not bothering with degreaser. Something like GT85 works well if used regularly as an aid to wiping with a rag, or just a rag is ok too if you give it some stick, using some white spirit on the removed chain for a deep clean every now and again. An old toothbrush is perfect to get the censored off in conjunction with white spirit. No need to get chain degreaser. Even your brake stuff will do, but be mightily expensive for what you need. White spirit is way way cheaper.
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,802
    No need to degrease, remove the crud off the outside by all means, but don't degrease....
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • pesky_jonespesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    Just to clarify, here is my plan for lubing chain tonight – Leave chain on, as im not confident with undoing the chain, wipe off crud with rag, scrub a little with toothbrush dipped in white spirit, wait for chain to dry, and finally add a little oil to different rag and oil up the chain. I think im going to use a small and thin piece of wood to drip oil into the chainlinks themselves - carefull not to use too much.

    any problems with this procedure considering the chain will still be on?
  • benpinnickbenpinnick Posts: 4,148
    MTB_TR wrote:
    Just to clarify, here is my plan for lubing chain tonight – Leave chain on, as im not confident with undoing the chain, wipe off crud with rag, scrub a little with toothbrush dipped in white spirit, rub down again wait for chain to dry, and finally add a little oil to different rag and oil up the chain. I think im going to use a small and thin piece of wood to drip oil into the chainlinks themselves - carefull not to use too much.

    any problems with this procedure considering the chain will still be on?

    Added extra process....
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • benpinnickbenpinnick Posts: 4,148
    Oh, and best way to rub down? Grip rag around chain at the middle of the lower run, turn pedals.

    Otherwise a fine plan.
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • anj132anj132 Posts: 299
    MTB_TR wrote:
    Ok cheers dude. Yeah i think a new chain ASWELL as chain lube is a must. But as for chain degreaser for when i want to clean it...do i have to buy special chain degreaser of will my disc brake cleaner/ degreaser do the trick?

    Just going to point out that if you've stretched your chain it might have worn the cassette to the point that it will skip with a new chain and you would be looking at possibly a new cassette as well.
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,802
    benpinnick wrote:
    Oh, and best way to rub down? Grip rag around chain at the middle of the lower run, turn pedals BACKWARDS.

    Otherwise a fine plan.
    My edit.....
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • pesky_jonespesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    i missed the last comment so pedalled forwards...not sure if it made a huge difference as all is working fine now. Nice new shiny lubed chain :mrgreen: cheers guys
  • benpinnickbenpinnick Posts: 4,148
    The Beginner wrote:
    benpinnick wrote:
    Oh, and best way to rub down? Grip rag around chain at the middle of the lower run, turn pedals EITHER WAY.

    Otherwise a fine plan.
    My edit.....

    My edit..... Turning forwards sends the rag towards the mech, which if it gets caught up can be a) a pain to get out b) expensive. Sending the rag towards the chainwheel just means that you might lose a finger or two :shock: Your choice really!
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • pesky_jonespesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    Ah i see. Well this time ive got a clean, lubed chain, a working mech and all my fingers - thumbs up (pun intended)

    Next time i'l probally still pedal forward as i dont really fancy loosing a finger or two. Besides its a fair bit away from the mech so its probally fine.
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,802
    It's only that you can do it backwards easier......like leant against the wall with both wheels on the ground!
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • njee20njee20 Posts: 9,613
    You'd only lose a finger going backwards on a fixie as well, there's no inertia with a freehub, it'll just stop. That and going forwards means there's some spokes and a cassette/disc rotor spinning very quickly mere millimetres from your fingers/knuckles.

    Backwards FTW.
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