Seized Seat Post

iRaves
iRaves Posts: 50
edited October 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi guys.

i am forced to yet again, bow to your collective superior knowledge!

i am a dick and did a bad thing not thinking...

i decided to get my stock seat post powder coated as my brother works for a coaters and they have bright yellow on that time, and he phoned me and said he could do my handle bar, headset, and seat post yellow if i wanted for nothing. mine was scratched so thought fuck it...

handle bars went on perfect, and everything looked sweet!

came to out the seat post in and it was a little tight. not too bad, but tight all the same.

i managed to get it in a bit with spinning and serious pressure and some help from my friend.

6 months later i decided to raise the height as i was getting serious cramps in my tighs.

but when i cam to raise it it was jammed. i have managed to raise it to where i want it to where i want it to be (but it wont come out any more) but would like to buy a new post and get rid of the problem one.

any ideas?

i have so far tried removing the QR collar, and plying it with WD40 turning it (with alot of effort) and tried getting the strongest person i know to twist and pull but nothing.. it needs cutting out. but i dunno where to start.

local bike shop doesnt wanna know.

anyone had this issue? is there a simple way round this?

thanks guys and i thank you in advance for your response

much love

Comments

  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Put post in a vice. Use frame as a lever.
  • Stu Coops
    Stu Coops Posts: 426
    And serves you right for painting it yellow :lol::lol:
    Zesty 514 Scott Scale 20 GT Expert HalfwayupMTB
  • paul.skibum
    paul.skibum Posts: 4,068
    Turn upside down, stand on saddle rails, twist and pull frame - frame is bigger therefore better lever?

    I'd also try not to be an idiot again! :D
    Closet jockey wheel pimp whore.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Fit and old saddle and beat the living cr4p out the rials with a hammer!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    iRaves wrote:
    anyone had this issue? is there a simple way round this?
    yes anyone that has forced a seatpost into a frame.

    yes.


    read the topic on sheldon browns pages.

    but you are limited to:
    lots of force.
    cutting the seat post out.
    applying heat to melt the coating.
    buying a new frame.

    what has happened is you have forced a seatpost that is now too big into the frame.

    have fun and take your time.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I'm currently trying to free a seatpost from a frame, in my case the frame is steel and some iron oxide has come into play, ultimately I'll cut the post out if I have to, but after a week of oil and a day of beating up the saddle with a hammer I have about 10 degree's of rotation that I can almost do by hand.....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    I'm currently trying to free a seatpost from a frame, in my case the frame is steel and some iron oxide has come into play, ultimately I'll cut the post out if I have to, but after a week of oil and a day of beating up the saddle with a hammer I have about 10 degree's of rotation that I can almost do by hand.....
    yes but your seat post is the correct size? here we have what is basically and oversized seat post.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Yes I know the 'failure' is different, but the result is the same when trying to get it out, clearly penetrating oil will do little to help the OP.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • iRaves
    iRaves Posts: 50
    Sorry for the late reply. My net got cut. Bastards

    ok,

    thanks for all the replies and suggestions. i have some serious input (compared to asking people i know, which was buy a new bike or stop messing with it) i will give them all a try. obviously i wanna get the post out whole if i can for ease. but if it comes to it i will cut the thing out.

    dont think heating it to melt the coating would work because i would need some serious heat to melt powder coating i recks and would damage my paint job.

    i think my prefered method of choice will be brute force.

    was thinking of some way of attaching a bar to the end of the seatpost to use as a handle.

    just gotta figure out how to do that
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    2 steel rods the saddle rail diameter, clamp into seatpost top, offcut of wood in between and wrap in duct tape to make a handle at each end - simples!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • 97th choice
    97th choice Posts: 2,222
    What about cutting the post horizontally, then cutting a slot in it vertically with a hacksaw blade or reciprocating saw (very carefully) so that you can then compress and remove the stem.
    Too-ra-loo-ra, too-ra-loo-rye, aye

    Giant Trance
    Radon ZR 27.5 Race
    Btwin Alur700
    Merida CX500
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    What about cutting the post horizontally, then cutting a slot in it vertically with a hacksaw blade or reciprocating saw (very carefully) so that you can then compress and remove the stem.
    sorry no. cutting it down is the last thing that should be done unless you are prepared to sit down with a pad saw and cut down the length of the post.

    if you were paying for it it would cost more than a new frame.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • grpnpton
    grpnpton Posts: 275
    I discovered a fsa k force 31.6mm carbon post has an inside diameter of 27mm right to the top a nice tight fit add some epoxy and this could be just what you need alternatively remove bb add caustic soda as many folk online suggest I find that preheating first with boiling water then add soda when its bubbling away just the heat alone can free up a post stickers may scrivel up but your paint should be fine