Has this ever happened to you - chain bounce

DonDaddyD
DonDaddyD Posts: 12,689
edited October 2012 in Commuting chat
I was riding up Wimbledon Hill, cars passing me on my right. I change the big ring (front mech) to the middle ring and as the shifting happens the bottom of the chain crosses over the top part of the chain. This immediately stopped my crank and I was unable to pedal.

Has this happened to you? Any advice (other than the sarcastic MTFU, pedal harder and don't down shit) to avoid or resolve this issue?

I felt myself falling into oncoming traffic so had to steer into the curb and was prepared to take the fall. Luckily I stayed upright.
Food Chain number = 4

A true scalp is not only overtaking someone but leaving them stopped at a set of lights. As you, who have clearly beaten the lights, pummels nothing but the open air ahead. ~ 'DondaddyD'. Player of the Unspoken Game

Comments

  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    Sounds very similar to chain suck (which I got in the terrible mud of the Puffer) where the chain carries on around the chain ring and jams into the chain at the top. Heavy (heavy) oiling solved that but your cause is probably different. Is it a derailer (must be I guess) - is it tensioning the chain properly?
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    Yeah, sound slike chainsuck.

    What condition are your chainrings and chain in? Lube/gunk/wear?
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • DonDaddyD
    DonDaddyD Posts: 12,689
    Probably in need of a new chain and chain ring/s by the sounds of things.
    Food Chain number = 4

    A true scalp is not only overtaking someone but leaving them stopped at a set of lights. As you, who have clearly beaten the lights, pummels nothing but the open air ahead. ~ 'DondaddyD'. Player of the Unspoken Game
  • andyk19
    andyk19 Posts: 170
    I'm not sure if it's the same thing but I used to find that my SRAM Rival double would mis-shift on the down shift.

    The chain would 'stick' to the underside of the inner ring immediately after shifting off the larger ring, i.e. it would have changer from big to small properly but then stick. It would then get dragged up with the chainring, somehow missing the chainstay, and then jam against the chain coming onto the upper side of the small chainring. This would lead to the whole drivetrain locking up and could be pretty scary when putting power down.

    As I say I'm not sure it's the same thing but wasn't the typical chainsuck I've had on MTBs. I never found a solution as I couldn't find the actual cause as the chainring teeth were all ok (it also happened with a Force chainset I put on). The only way I solved it was to use Shimano on my new bike and ditch the SRAM!
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    DonDaddyD wrote:
    Probably in need of a new chain and chain ring/s by the sounds of things.

    A really good clean and lube might solve it
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • spasypaddy
    spasypaddy Posts: 5,180
    i managed to wrap my chain 4 times around my crank arm the other week. took me 15mins to unwind it at the side of the road
  • fossyant
    fossyant Posts: 2,549
    You have a middle ring, OMG. As said good clean, chain, rings, mech first. Inspect rings. If fails new rings.
  • notsoblue
    notsoblue Posts: 5,756
    You ride a Triple? Is that for Balham Hill?
  • DonDaddyD
    DonDaddyD Posts: 12,689
    For fear of things getting silly. Yes, I ride a triple. My big ring is a 54t or 52t proper massive. The SCR 3 came as a triple, there was no double/compact option. I would love a double (compact actually).
    Food Chain number = 4

    A true scalp is not only overtaking someone but leaving them stopped at a set of lights. As you, who have clearly beaten the lights, pummels nothing but the open air ahead. ~ 'DondaddyD'. Player of the Unspoken Game
  • daddy0
    daddy0 Posts: 686
    Clean the chain with GT85 or WD40 and a wire brush, dry it off then oil it. Check none of the links are seized - if they are then wiggle them about and free them up (but if they're seized then I'd just replace it). Also make sure the chainrings are clean.

    If it happens again after this then buy a new chain - cheapest thing to replace and most likely cause.
  • il_principe
    il_principe Posts: 9,155
    You don't ride Wimbledon Hill in the Big Ring?

    MTFU.
  • cyclingprop
    cyclingprop Posts: 2,426
    A compact is a triple in all but name.

    Get some muc-off chain cleaner, stick the bike in the bath and wash it all properly. Check you've not bent any chainrings with the power awesome™. Try running a drier lube in future if cleaning fixes the problem.
    What do you mean you think 64cm is a big frame?
  • mudcow007
    mudcow007 Posts: 3,861
    +3 chainsuck

    it happens on mine from time to time, reverse pedal an it drop
    Keeping it classy since '83
  • fossyant
    fossyant Posts: 2,549
    Compact....

    Seriously also check the rear mech cage springs and that the mech pivots aren't stiff, as if the mech isn't pulling enough on the chain, you'll get chain suck changing down as its not taking up slack. Get that WD into the pivots and clean it.
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    A compact is a triple in all but name.
    :lol:

    And the fact it's not got three rings, perhaps?
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • il_principe
    il_principe Posts: 9,155
    Calls for MucOff, WD40 and GT85...? I wouldn't let any of that crap near my bikes. Used MucOff degreaser once and it took some paint off the bike. Get a proper degreaser - Fenwicks, Motorex etc (fenwicks foaming chain cleaner & sponge works wonders), and then lube with something decent. Again Fenwicks MTB is great for the winter and their Road for the summer.
  • Happens. Clean and lube will help. When it happens though just pedal backwards half a rev to sort it out and carry on.

    Heh. Triple. In London.
  • DonDaddyD
    DonDaddyD Posts: 12,689
    Thanks all.

    Can I point out that since I upgraded from the Truativ crankset that came with the bike to the current one - this was WAY back in 2009 - I have only needed to replace the big ring. This is because I very rarely use the smallest and middle rings on the crankset.
    Food Chain number = 4

    A true scalp is not only overtaking someone but leaving them stopped at a set of lights. As you, who have clearly beaten the lights, pummels nothing but the open air ahead. ~ 'DondaddyD'. Player of the Unspoken Game
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    DonDaddyD wrote:
    Thanks all.

    Can I point out that since I upgraded from the Truativ crankset that came with the bike to the current one - this was WAY back in 2009 - I have only needed to replace the big ring. This is because I very rarely use the smallest and middle rings on the crankset.
    Sure.... you just happened to be using the small and middle rings when you had the problem :wink:

    If the rings are that old then they're probably worn, hence the chainsuck. Clean it all up, but it might not go away.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • DonDaddyD wrote:
    My big ring is a 54t or 52t proper massive.

    It has to be when the smallest cog you've got on the back is an 18. Bless.


    :wink:
  • cyclingprop
    cyclingprop Posts: 2,426
    Calls for MucOff, WD40 and GT85...? I wouldn't let any of that crap near my bikes. Used MucOff degreaser once and it took some paint off the bike. Get a proper degreaser - Fenwicks, Motorex etc (fenwicks foaming chain cleaner & sponge works wonders), and then lube with something decent. Again Fenwicks MTB is great for the winter and their Road for the summer.

    Must be that power you have in your scrubbing and polishing arm IP.
    What do you mean you think 64cm is a big frame?
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,768
    I agree with all of the above about chain suck. Especially the bit about cleaning the rear mech too so it keeps the tension in the chain when you come off the big ring.
    Also, you are backing of whilst it changes down aren't you? Make life much easier for the front shifter if it isn't fighting tension in the chain.
  • TheStone
    TheStone Posts: 2,291
    A compact is a triple in all but name.

    With a compact you can nearly get the range of a triple, without the hassle of trying to get a triple to work (had one once, hated it).
    exercise.png
  • edhornby
    edhornby Posts: 1,780
    another thing to try with chainsuck, for Aluminium chainrings - get a stanley knife and go round the outer edges of the chain ring to trim off the burr that collects on the edge of the tooth, I have been told that this helps but I've not tried it myself....
    "I get paid to make other people suffer on my wheel, how good is that"
    --Jens Voight