Self build
dannyharris
Posts: 217
Evening all
After weeks of trawling through the net lookin for a bike not having much luck. Mainly cause they cost so damn much.
So decided I want to build my own and can buy bits and bobs over a couple of months.
Now my dilemma where do I start? Looked on a few web sites on how to do this but not sure exactly what parts I need.
I will be using it to travel 10 mile each way to work.
Currently have a mountain bike but can't get above 11 mph on average over the whole distance.
Would like a race bike look but be able to add panniers. Would I need specific frame? Can new holes be drilled if need be?
So what I need to know to start with, what parts are essential to spend a bit of money on?
After weeks of trawling through the net lookin for a bike not having much luck. Mainly cause they cost so damn much.
So decided I want to build my own and can buy bits and bobs over a couple of months.
Now my dilemma where do I start? Looked on a few web sites on how to do this but not sure exactly what parts I need.
I will be using it to travel 10 mile each way to work.
Currently have a mountain bike but can't get above 11 mph on average over the whole distance.
Would like a race bike look but be able to add panniers. Would I need specific frame? Can new holes be drilled if need be?
So what I need to know to start with, what parts are essential to spend a bit of money on?
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Comments
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Well, the cheapest NEW parts are usually found on a new bike. Buying the parts one by one and upgrading and tinkering is great fun, but I wouldn´t say it´s the most economical way to go about it.0
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I built my commuter up from a bare frame, using mostly used parts (new and it will cost you more) - see pic
Too that spec it cost about £400 and weighs 9.75Kg without rack and guards but with pedals.
Many frames have mounting for rack and guards, although dedicated road frames often don't, Audax, touring or cyclocross (all look similar to a road frame but have subtly different qualities and geometry) do.
I averaged 15.5mph on a front sus MTB on (fairly worn) knobblies, and 18.5mph on the above (after 500 miles of getting fitter), so don't expect a massive improvement!
What budget do you have and what do you want to achieve?
This will take rack and guards! http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165710
as will
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-3-id_8167038.htmlCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
You can get race type frames which will have bosses for panniers and mudguards. I built up a kinesis racelight for commuting, excellent frame for the money (it will take a rack and guards but this is the good weather commuter so no guards fitted and I use a saddlebag so no need for a rack):
http://www.fatbirds.co.uk/5924/products ... frame.aspx
I spent about £1200 on mine but you could fit a cheaper group (and not splurge silly money on a Ti Brooks :oops: ) and build something very decent for £700-£800 I reckon.
Agree that it's unlikely to be cheaper unless you've very good/lucky sourcing parts but it does mean you can spread the cost, you'll know the bike inside out (so should be able to do maintenance yourself which saves a lot in the long run) and it's good fun and satisfying to do.0 -
The Beginner wrote:I built my commuter up from a bare frame, using mostly used parts (new and it will cost you more) - see pic
Too that spec it cost about £400 and weighs 9.75Kg without rack and guards but with pedals.
Many frames have mounting for rack and guards, although dedicated road frames often don't, Audax, touring or cyclocross (all look similar to a road frame but have subtly different qualities and geometry) do.
I averaged 15.5mph on a front sus MTB on (fairly worn) knobblies, and 18.5mph on the above (after 500 miles of getting fitter), so don't expect a massive improvement!
What budget do you have and what do you want to achieve?
This will take rack and guards! http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165710
as will
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-3-id_8167038.htmlI don't do smileys.
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Parktools0 -
Because I carry a laptop bag to/from work and also a large lunch box, back packs make my back sweaty, so rack and panniers it is!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Its a fairly expensive process. Not that it isn't a lovely and rewarding (and good for doing your own maintenance, etc), its woefully expensive. Get a 2nd hand bike of ebay/gumtree for 3-400 quid which is far far cheaper than the sum of its parts.0