Like for Like Rim replacement!

pitchshifter
pitchshifter Posts: 1,476
edited October 2012 in Workshop
I think my Mavic Open Pro rims are on their last legs... slight concave when I hold a straight edge against it.

Rather replace before it explodes while I'm descending :shock:

Anyone done this themselves? Can I just use the old spokes and nipples? Or should I bite the bullet and get a professional to do it..?

Comments

  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,337
    PM sent
    left the forum March 2023
  • hulla the hulla
    hulla the hulla Posts: 338
    It's like anything, easy when you know how. Ugo knows how, listen to the man ;)
    A person who aims at nothing is sure to hit it

    Canyon Aeroad 7.0 summer missile
    Trek 2.1 winter hack
  • veryslowtwitch
    veryslowtwitch Posts: 321
    Need god quality spoke key to avoid ruining fingers. Remove QR, tyre, inner tube and rim tape. Loosen off all the nipples until hub is v wobbly.

    Tape the new rim beside the old, matching up valve holes.

    Swap spokes one by one. Reuse spokes and nipples. Keep very loose at first. Only replace spokes if bent or nipples if rounded.

    Tighten spokes and true wheel.

    Easy for front wheel. If I can do it anyone can. I've not done a rear.

    Good luck.

    Alan
  • wishitwasallflat
    wishitwasallflat Posts: 2,927
    How did you set the tension? Did you have a meter?
  • veryslowtwitch
    veryslowtwitch Posts: 321
    I did not use a meter. There was a little tide mark on some of the old spokes and by the time I had trued the the wheel I had tightened up the nipples pretty much to the same point.

    All the spokes had a similar ping when I tapped them.

    After all the spokes were swapped I untaped the old rim. I used a wheel jig which makes it easier to true the wheel and also more comfortable to work at a table but you could use your brake blocks as a reference.

    Highly recommended for a couple of hours in front of the telly.
  • wishitwasallflat
    wishitwasallflat Posts: 2,927
    veryslowtwitch wrote:
    I did not use a meter. There was a little tide mark on some of the old spokes and by the time I had trued the the wheel I had tightened up the nipples pretty much to the same point.

    All the spokes had a similar ping when I tapped them.

    After all the spokes were swapped I untaped the old rim. I used a wheel jig which makes it easier to true the wheel and also more comfortable to work at a table but you could use your brake blocks as a reference.

    Highly recommended for a couple of hours in front of the telly.


    Cheers might have a try - its getting the tension right that worries me.
  • veryslowtwitch
    veryslowtwitch Posts: 321
    Should have added "...use your brake blocks in the forks..."

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