Wobbly front wheel, whats wrong ?

Anonymous

Hey guys

Right heres the problem...

I bought this wheelset from Superstars Components about 3 months ago :

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=497

The bike has only had light trail use, I have recently done a 50 mile canal cycle path, I usually want to go for distance for fitness but nothing like hard XC, yet after just 3 months I have a wobble on my front hub

Now I aint too technical and I aint really sure what I am looking at here as am a newbie :oops: , but I have taken the wheel off and from what I can tell the axel and bearings are solid yet these outer cups or whatever there called have play in them and its making the front wheel knock.

Could it be bearings thats the problem ? and if so how come they only lasted 3 months of light trail use, and am I going to need new bearings every 3 months if this is the case ? thing is it all seems tight inside the hub where the axel is :?:

Anyway heres the video I made today:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9d36wx5PMtk

I just wanna be able to cycle again but I cant stand this knock and it just doesnt feel right.

Hope someone can help.

Many thanks in advance

nicklouse

looks normal if they did not move the wheel would not rotate.

when the wheel is fitted what is the problem?

Anonymous

Hi Nick.

The problem is say when you lift the bike out the car and put it on the ground, when the front wheel touches the floor it knocks and you can feel it loose all the way up through the bike.

The rear wheel has no play in it whatsoever but I can wobble the front a couple of mill either side.

It feels as if the front QR is loose even when its tight.

nicklouse

is it the wheel? or is it the fork or the headset?

the cups are lose. some that is how they work.

Anonymous

Definately the wheel.

Is there supposed to be any lateral movement ? if I go to a bike shop and pick up all the new bikes will I be able to move the front wheel 2mm side to side, is that normal ?

nicklouse

yes the cones are free floating they have to be.

put the axle through the wheel and things will stop some movement. but they will still slid in and out on the axle.

Anonymous

Oh right, so theres nothing wrong with it at all then lol. :oops: :oops:

Thanks for confirming that, man all this time I been staying in because I thought there was a problem, I just dont remember it wobbling that before so I assumed there was a problem.

Thanks Nick

mrmonkfinger

You shouldn't get any knocks when the axle is done up tight, so its possible the bearings are shot. Might be worth checking the headset - if that's loose it would knock when you bump the front wheel.


Having said that, the cups will move around when the wheel is out, what you show in the video, that's quite normal. When the wheel + fork + axle is all together and done up tight, the cups clamp onto the inside cage of the bearings and there should be no movement or play.

Anonymous

Hey mrmonkfinger.

Well I took the bike only a 5 mile ride yesterday and its horrible, it defo shouldnt be like this, like a solid metalic clunking coming from the hub

Just had reply from superstars again andup to now their cust service via email has been poor but I just had a comprehensive email from Nick which is good.

They seem to suggest bearings too, which baffles me as I havent done that many light trail miles and i'm annoyed if they are shot and I am having to replace them so soon at my cost.

OK I best get educated on bearings and the like.

Thanks for the posts fellas.

Anonymous

Hey Guys.

Right looks like I am about to delv into bearing replacement, never done it before.

So i'll start by asking is it hard :oops: do I need any specific tools, brass drift etc and where could I buy all the tools ? would really help if someone could list them so I can shop for them online.

Also I am unfamiliar with the procedure, so if anyone knows of a link that helped them out I'd be very grateful.

Bearing wise apparently I need: 6804 2RS x 2 ... that means nothing to me, but can someone tell me where to buy these bearings and is there a specific one I should be looking for? do I go standard or do they even offer a ceramic and are there any benefits to these ?

I am off road now until I can get this sorted

Many thanks in advance fellas

Matt 8)

nicklouse

again go back to basics. check the headset.

post up a video of what the wheels is doing. IE wheel in fork and make it do what it is doing to cause you your issues.

but check your headset.

cooldad

An online bearing shop - stick the code in.
Stick to stainless steel. Ceramic are generally expensive and pointless.
What you need depends on where they are.

nicklouse

CubeCrazy wrote:

Hey Guys.

Right looks like I am about to delv into bearing replacement, never done it before.

So i'll start by asking is it hard :oops: do I need any specific tools, brass drift etc and where could I buy all the tools ? would really help if someone could list them so I can shop for them online.

Also I am unfamiliar with the procedure, so if anyone knows of a link that helped them out I'd be very grateful.

Bearing wise apparently I need: 6804 2RS x 2 ... that means nothing to me, but can someone tell me where to buy these bearings and is there a specific one I should be looking for? do I go standard or do they even offer a ceramic and are there any benefits to these ?

I am off road now until I can get this sorted

Many thanks in advance fellas

Matt 8)

FFS check your headset first.

I will be very very supprised if your bearings have gone in your hubs.

Anonymous

Video link above or here again :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9d36wx5PMtk

I'll have a good look at the headset too

Anonymous

OK thanks guys

Found plenty online with the code and will stick to stainless.

Hubs are switch evo if that means anything ? i've took bearings outta me R1's wheels before so am sure its same process just carefully done.

OK headset, is there a correct way to check this ? I'll get bike in living room now and see if I can spot anything and report back

Anonymous

Ohhhhhhhhh front brake on, push bike back and forth, knock knock knock goes what I think is the headset, ok heart racing calm down calm down lol be nice if thats all it is

I'll undo it all and torque it up and see if that solves things

Anonymous

Nope false alarm it was just the play from the hub I was feeling, headset and forks are fine, no play whatsoever.

Undone the stem and the top steerer bolt, re torqued it up nice and tight, even with bike upside down just pulling at the wheel a bit its the same rattle, has to be bearings.

cooldad

Why would you undo the steerer bolt? Sure you're doing it right? Steerer bolt then stem bolts.

Anonymous

I undid the stem bolts first then loosened off the steerer bolt, then I torqued it back up to 9 nm as its a carbon steer and then 5nm for the stem bolts.

Neal_

I replaced all the bearings in my SSC Switch Evo hubs recently and it's a piece of pish.

The rear is easy but for the front pull the end cap adapters off which will leave the bearings and the inner half of the end caps still in place. Using a drift/screwdriver/socket extension etc and hammer knock out a bearing and end cap still in the hub by pushing the spacer between the bearings down to compress the o-ring so you can get the drift on the edge of the bearing then do the same for the other bearing. It's best to press the bearings in place but I used an old bearing on top of the new bearing and carefully knocked it in with a hammer, even if you do use a press make sure you push on the outer race of the bearing as applying too much force to the inner race will damage them. Make sure all the spacers and end caps go in with the o-rings seated correctly which can be a bit tricky if the o-rings have magically grown like mine had.

Links below to bearing list and service guide if you want them but not hugely useful to be honest.

http://db.tt/D3vUOJEb

http://db.tt/2vZUIP8s

The best bearings are the Japanese brands (SKF, FAG, EZO) and I got mine on ebay from Katec/kaesae, just search "switch prorider bearings" and you'll find them.

cooldad

CubeCrazy wrote:

I undid the stem bolts first then loosened off the steerer bolt, then I torqued it back up to 9 nm as its a carbon steer and then 5nm for the stem bolts.

Tighten up the steerer bolt until any play is gone but still moves freely. Forget torque.

Anonymous

Hey Neal.

Wow thats a wonderful post mate, lots of info there to get me sorted, thanks a lot mate

Right i'll get some bearings ordered and come back to this page when they arrive and see if I can get back on the trails again.

Cheers mate 8)

Anonymous

I have to be careful cooldad as its a carbon steerer and if I shatter that by over expanding am in a mess.

nicklouse

Neal_ wrote:

The best bearings are the Japanese brands (SKF, FAG, EZO)

dont tell the Swedes that you have sold SKF.

Neal_

nicklouse wrote:

Neal_ wrote:

The best bearings are the Japanese brands (SKF, FAG, EZO)

dont tell the Swedes that you have sold SKF.

So that's what the S stands for You learn something new every day

Anonymous

Am thinking of these bad boys, not cheap but am hoping if there quality I wont have to be doing this again anytime soon ?

http://www.akbearings.co.uk/product.asp ... rtRecord=1

cooldad

CubeCrazy wrote:

I have to be careful cooldad as its a carbon steerer and if I shatter that by over expanding am in a mess.

Not going to happen unless you are a gorilla. Think about the forces when you go over a gnarrly jump. They don't just snap. Although my son did snap a road one hitting a car. He got revenge by putting a huge dent in the bonnet with his body.

It still needs to be right though and a torque wrench can't tell you that.

Anonymous

I'm terrible for snapping heads off bolts I always like to know things are right, especially if am doing 30mph through woodland hence me buying 3 torque wrenches

I think recommended nm was like 7nm but I went to 9nm and it just felt tight at that, no knocks or rattles.

Just ordered the bearings from evilbay, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0856317635 £20.08 :shock:

Read online that what I am experiencing is a common problem apparently with this particular Superstars wheelset, one bloke said his bearings lasted only 3 weeks, it seems Superstars are shipping these hubs with cheap bearings, one bloke said he replaced his and his bike is still fine a year on, so am hoping thats all it is.

Neal_

CubeCrazy wrote:

Am thinking of these bad boys, not cheap but am hoping if there quality I wont have to be doing this again anytime soon ?

http://www.akbearings.co.uk/product.asp ... rtRecord=1

AK Bearings are the cheapest place I've found outside ebay for FAG (or similar quality) bearings but the prorider ones from Katec are cheaper and he takes the seals off and packs them with grease saving you the bother, he advertises them as SKF or similar and mine were EZO which are just as good. Replaced mine 3 months & 600km ago and they're still perfectly smooth.

Anonymous

I was going to buy from AK but when I went to checkout it said they are not shipping until the 26th so I went to Evilbay and spotted same thing there.

I didnt know you had to pack them yourself with grease, interesting that, good to hear yours are still running smooth, am desperate to get out now and do some miles

The Rookie

CubeCrazy wrote:

I always like to know things are right,

So do it right and forget torque then.....

Lots of anecdotal evidence online that the Superstar wheels have cheap/rubbish bearings, no-one as far as I'm aware has ever 'proven' this.