Bleeding deore brakes

t0pc4t
t0pc4t Posts: 947
edited October 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
Question no less dumb than my usual. I have to replace the lever on my deore brakes and as Shimano don't sell the blades alone, it has to be the full assembly and so I will need to bleed the system.

Online I have seen vids where a syringe is attached to the bleed nipple and used to push fluid into the caliper to bleed it by forcing bubbles up to the resevoir at the top.

My question is, why is this necessary and why can't I just bleed brakes like I would have on a motorbike? By this I mean attach a pipe to the bleed nipple on the caliper, put new fluid into the resevoir at the top and then pull the lever with the nipple open, close the nipple, release the lever rinse and repeat until there are no bubbles in the resevoir and none in what comes out via the pipe attached to the caliper nipple.

Am I missing somehting?
Whether you're a king or a little street sweeper, sooner or later you'll dance with the reaper.

Cube Curve 2009
Giant Anthem X4

FCN=6

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    You can, just get the brake line as level as possible.
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  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    which Deore brakes?
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • mister p
    mister p Posts: 405
    You can do it that way but it is much easier and quicker to force fluid in from the calliper end. As the fluid is under pressure it forces any air out with it and you should be able to get a solid lever feel first time every time. I have bled quite a few Shimano brakes this summer at various downhill and gravity enduro events and this method has saved me loads of time and bother.
  • andyk19
    andyk19 Posts: 170
    I have to agree with mister p. I've had a few sets of shimano hydros and have tried both methods of bleeding. The method of putting fluid into the reservoir with the bleed nipple on the caliper open whilst actuating the lever took hours; particularly as I'd emptied the system of fluid. On the other hand using the syringe and bottle method with a bleed kit takes minutes, is much cleaner and results in a better bleed (in my case anyway).

    I was also able to find a copy of the shimano bleed kit on eBay which only cost £25 as opposed to a little over £50, it seems to work fine - afterall its only a syringe, a bottle and a clamp.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Agreed again, I can bleed my XT's in 2 minutes with a syringe and hose on the caliper.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • t0pc4t
    t0pc4t Posts: 947
    thanks everyone for an understandable and logical set of responses. Really appreciate that, bought a bleed kit from Dr Coopers, unfortunately can't use the strangely shaped funnel thing as my Shimano pre-dates that

    Nick - it's a replacement for an M486 (no longer made) M445 I think.
    Whether you're a king or a little street sweeper, sooner or later you'll dance with the reaper.

    Cube Curve 2009
    Giant Anthem X4

    FCN=6
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    t0pc4t wrote:
    thanks everyone for an understandable and logical set of responses. Really appreciate that, bought a bleed kit from Dr Coopers, unfortunately can't use the strangely shaped funnel thing as my Shimano pre-dates that

    Nick - it's a replacement for an M486 (no longer made) M445 I think.
    hence the question as the funnel is only for certain models.

    this lever?

    shimano_blm445-blk.jpg?w=1100&h=1100&a=7

    basically the reservoir is so small you would be topping up all the time of forgetting and having to start again.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • t0pc4t
    t0pc4t Posts: 947
    thanks the kiddie and thanks matey.

    would be nice if the lever blades were user serviceable though, then I wouldn't have to be bleeding anything
    Whether you're a king or a little street sweeper, sooner or later you'll dance with the reaper.

    Cube Curve 2009
    Giant Anthem X4

    FCN=6
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    the blades are removable and repacable.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • t0pc4t
    t0pc4t Posts: 947
    That's odd, I was told by 2 bike shops that the lever blades were not removable and replaceable and I am not entirely sure how it would be done.

    Do you know how to get them off? Would save me doing the bleeding then at least. I can see how one would disconnect them from the piston but not how to remove the main pivot.
    Whether you're a king or a little street sweeper, sooner or later you'll dance with the reaper.

    Cube Curve 2009
    Giant Anthem X4

    FCN=6
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    which lever? M486 ?

    just about to finish work but will be on later.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    nicklouse wrote:
    which lever? M486 ?

    just about to finish work but will be on later.
    Mmmm just had a thought. those ones have the pivot as a "rivit" IE it aint replaceable. so more effort to change. new bolts etc and then drilling out the pivot.....
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • t0pc4t
    t0pc4t Posts: 947
    Ah ok thought as much from looking at the replacement, oh well bleeding it is, thanks for the input everyone, at least I know I'm not going off half cocked.
    Whether you're a king or a little street sweeper, sooner or later you'll dance with the reaper.

    Cube Curve 2009
    Giant Anthem X4

    FCN=6