Clever and useful tips!

bluedoggy

meursault wrote:

Bluedoggy wrote:

Clean bibs, just incase of an accident. Surely nothing worse than sh!tty bibs after been knocked over by a car or bus?

Loving the artwork. Curious to know why I couldn't see any cycling themed work. Is cycling a pleasure to do away from from work/art?

Thanks for the kind comments on my work. No, never even think about painting a bike when I'd rather paint a sexy girl in a compromising position!:0 She's all in my head, I'm a lucky guy.........:)

2Phat4Rapha

Take a completely deflated inner tube and fold it in half lengthways with the valve at one end. Wrap it fairly tightly in cling film.

Slide it up the seat post by pressing on the sides of the tube to make it slightly “u” in section. You’ll find there’s plenty of springiness for it to hold itself in the post. Now put the post back, sliding the remaining inner tube down into the seat tube.

No more bulging pockets or the need for a saddle bag. You can even wrap a couple of small tyre levers in there as well if you like. It works, done it for ages.

navrig

essjaydee wrote:

Don't try and turn your rear light on when riding :!:
I tried couple of days ago and managed to wipe out by sliding along a kerb onto wet grass.
Very embarrassing :oops:

Carry a spare link.

Or, as in the case on my motorbiking mate, try to switch off your rear pointing video camera attached to your rear number plate whilst moving. One 200kg Triumph Daytona in roadside ditch later......... Boy did I laugh.

pilot_pete

Before fitting an inner tube, wrap a little electrical tap around the valve stem where it will contact the hole in the rim. This makes it a snug fit and will prevent rattling.

Take an old tyre, cut out about a 4" section. Cut the beads off and carry this with your spare tubes, it makes for a very strong tyre patch should you damage a tyre badly.

Use fragrance free baby wipes to clean your bike. Good for cleaning the muck off your chain before getting in between the links with GT85 etc. On that note, hold GT85 can in your left hand and hold a big rag behind the front edge of your big chain ring with your right hand. Use the fitted dispenser tube on your can of GT85 and aim it at the back edge of the chain links where they are meshed with the chain ring teeth. Spray from about 2 o'clock round to about 6 o'clock and wipe with the rag. Turn the pedals round to do the next bit and so on until all the chain is clean. This is a good method after each ride, especially in wet weather to remove the crap and dispel any water. Dry or wet lube straight after.

Baby wipes are also good for cleaning between cassette sprockets (when wound into a long thin 'rope'). Similar method for cleaning the frame behind the chain rings etc.

Buy those cleaning mitts from car accessory shops with a fluffy side and a 'tassly' side, like these http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_776681_langId_-1_categoryId_165609 I have 2 or 3. Wash your bike with one, bounce the excess water off, then use another to dry it off and a third (which stays oily) is for cleaning the chain (my 'big rag') They are great and very absorbent if used dry, makes a clean take about 10 minutes even if the bike is covered in crap. They are soft and non damaging and can be washed out with washing powder. I put the wet and dry ones in the washing machine, and clean the oily one by hand every month or so.

Go to an engineering supplies shop and buy stainless bolts for all you stems, bottle cages etc. cheap as chips from there, but ridiculous prices when sold in bike shops. Especially entry level bikes don't have stainless bolts, just plated and as soon as you tighten them with an Allen key you crack the plating and sure as eggs are eggs they start to corrode.

With regards to bolts, buy some copper slip grease from the same place, or a car trade supplies place (big tin will last a life time) and put this on your threads before tightening the bolts. Stops them corroding and seizing (not to be used where a thread locker is required).

If your chain wasn't fitted with a quick link when you bought it, fit one....makes it easy to remove and clean every now and again. If you get 2, (they often come on a card in pairs), carry the spare with a chain tool to do emergency repairs.

That's it, run out of ideas now.

PP

buckmulligan

dmclite-3.0 wrote:

File off your lawyer lugs on your forks.

I seriously don't understand why people get so excited about this. Yeah, you'll be able to get your front wheel out a few seconds faster, but is it worth the risk of potentially trashing your bike and your face that one time you grab your bike for a ride and don't bother doing a proper pre-ride check. And it makes your forks looks crap unless they're getting repainted.

bluedoggy

Pilot Pete wrote:

Before fitting an inner tube, wrap a little electrical tap around the valve stem where it will contact the hole in the rim. This makes it a snug fit and will prevent rattling.

Take an old tyre, cut out about a 4" section. Cut the beads off and carry this with your spare tubes, it makes for a very strong tyre patch should you damage a tyre badly.

Use fragrance free baby wipes to clean your bike. Good for cleaning the muck off your chain before getting in between the links with GT85 etc. On that note, hold GT85 can in your left hand and hold a big rag behind the front edge of your big chain ring with your right hand. Use the fitted dispenser tube on your can of GT85 and aim it at the back edge of the chain links where they are meshed with the chain ring teeth. Spray from about 2 o'clock round to about 6 o'clock and wipe with the rag. Turn the pedals round to do the next bit and so on until all the chain is clean. This is a good method after each ride, especially in wet weather to remove the crap and dispel any water. Dry or wet lube straight after.

Baby wipes are also good for cleaning between cassette sprockets (when wound into a long thin 'rope'). Similar method for cleaning the frame behind the chain rings etc.

Buy those cleaning mitts from car accessory shops with a fluffy side and a 'tassly' side, like these http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_776681_langId_-1_categoryId_165609 I have 2 or 3. Wash your bike with one, bounce the excess water off, then use another to dry it off and a third (which stays oily) is for cleaning the chain (my 'big rag') They are great and very absorbent if used dry, makes a clean take about 10 minutes even if the bike is covered in crap. They are soft and non damaging and can be washed out with washing powder. I put the wet and dry ones in the washing machine, and clean the oily one by hand every month or so.

Go to an engineering supplies shop and buy stainless bolts for all you stems, bottle cages etc. cheap as chips from there, but ridiculous prices when sold in bike shops. Especially entry level bikes don't have stainless bolts, just plated and as soon as you tighten them with an Allen key you crack the plating and sure as eggs are eggs they start to corrode.

With regards to bolts, buy some copper slip grease from the same place, or a car trade supplies place (big tin will last a life time) and put this on your threads before tightening the bolts. Stops them corroding and seizing (not to be used where a thread locker is required).

If your chain wasn't fitted with a quick link when you bought it, fit one....makes it easy to remove and clean every now and again. If you get 2, (they often come on a card in pairs), carry the spare with a chain tool to do emergency repairs.

That's it, run out of ideas now.

PP

Some great tips here. Like the quick release link for the chain. And wet wipes, what would we do without wet wipes?!

hipshot

An old audax trick is to carry a Schrader Presta adapter. They weigh nothing and cost 99p.



If you carry one there is effectively a track pump in every garage forecourt.