Cyclocross tyres

cjcp

I'm presently using 30mm Michelin Mud 2s, but I'm not convinced they're the best performers when it's really muddy. I'm wondering whether to get 32mm tyres, and something with a slightly deeper tread.

Any thoughts and recommendations much appreciated.

Cheers.

Tom Butcher

By no means an expert but be careful of thinking more tread means better for mud - in fact you want a tread that sheds mud which I think is typically one with fairly well spaced nobbles. I remember last year my kids bikes were pretty much immobilised by mud in one race where other bikes seemed not to be picking it up.

andyp

Get tubulars.

Croxted Avenger

Firstly the mud2's come up a bit wide and look more like 32s in flesh than 30s IYSWIM.

Second - Tom is correct I think - tread pattern is more important than tread depth...as is tyre pressure. A good tyre has a balance of pattern and nobble size. If the Mud2 didn't give good tread then people wouldn't pay Dugast good money to cut and paste the mud2 tread onto their tubs.

cjcp

Ok, cheers.

What psi do you guys run when it's muddy? 40-ish?

hammerite

Schwalbe CX Pro or Challenge Limus when it's muddy (I used Challenge Grifos when it's dry).

40psi is what I run when it's dry, usually go around 30 when muddy.

DavidBelcher

hammerite wrote:

Schwalbe CX Pro or Challenge Limus when it's muddy (I used Challenge Grifos when it's dry).

40psi is what I run when it's dry, usually go around 30 when muddy.

Another vote here for Schwalbe CX Pros, though they've always seemed a tad narrower than the maker's quoted size to me. Also, fitting the rear one so that the tread pattern faces the "wrong" way seems to offer a wee bit of extra traction.

David

coopster_the_1st

DavidBelcher wrote:

hammerite wrote:

Schwalbe CX Pro or Challenge Limus when it's muddy (I used Challenge Grifos when it's dry).

40psi is what I run when it's dry, usually go around 30 when muddy.

Another vote here for Schwalbe CX Pros, though they've always seemed a tad narrower than the maker's quoted size to me. Also, fitting the rear one so that the tread pattern faces the "wrong" way seems to offer a wee bit of extra traction.

David

Which way is the wrong way?

I have just got these and the tyres state the forward and rear tread should be run in opposite directions. Are you saying you run the rear tread going the same direction as the front?

Martin

DavidBelcher

Coopster the 1st wrote:

DavidBelcher wrote:

hammerite wrote:

Schwalbe CX Pro or Challenge Limus when it's muddy (I used Challenge Grifos when it's dry).

40psi is what I run when it's dry, usually go around 30 when muddy.

Another vote here for Schwalbe CX Pros, though they've always seemed a tad narrower than the maker's quoted size to me. Also, fitting the rear one so that the tread pattern faces the "wrong" way seems to offer a wee bit of extra traction.

David

Which way is the wrong way?

I have just got these and the tyres state the forward and rear tread should be run in opposite directions. Are you saying you run the rear tread going the same direction as the front?

Martin

That's interesting - the last set I bought (a few seasons back now admittedly) weren't sold as directional, but a lot of people cottoned on to the trick of putting the back one on so that the tread faced away from the direction of the bike to make things a bit grippier in touch conditions. Schwalbe have obviously now made this "top tip" official!

David

Monty Dog

As discussed, lots of tread is useless if the mud just packs in there. In terms of clinchers, Michelin Muds or Schwalbe Racing Ralphs would be my choice (I train on clinchers / race on tubs). You really need to experiment with tyre pressure to find what works with different conditions - you want to go low as possible without risking pinch flats, so it can vary course to course plus you need to take your weight into account. At 60kg I can run 30F/32R psi on clinchers but wouldn't try it if you're 90kg.

PuttyKnees

I've been running grifos so far, but have a pair of clinchers ready for when it gets nasty. At what point would you consider it necessary to swap? Thick, deep mud?

Monty Dog

Time for more grip is when the mud packs into the tread and you simply have no grip - a test ride around the course is the only way because it's down to the stickiness of the mud. Because most tubulars have a more flexible carcass and are run at lower pressures they flex more and therefore shed mud better.

cjcp

Ok, cheers. The spare wheel set arrives tomorrow, so will look at the Schwalbes. I seem to using around the right psi, though: am 82kg, and keep it over 40psi; firmer when it's dry.

barry_kellett99

I'm running Specialized Terra Pro clinchers and have been very impressed.
But it really depends on the mud.
I'd take a wet muck bath muddy course any day over a course that is almost dry but has a few claggy spots, its like treacle and it clogs everything including your tyres.

As above, pressure is key.
I am still experimenting in my first CX season but dropped the pressures down from 40 both ends to 30psi front and about 32psi rear on sunday and the feeling of the tyre deforming and gripping under you is confidence inspiring.

But I will most definitely be looking to invest in some tubulars next season. Nothing overly fancy, mavic reflex rims should be more than adequate I think.

Mike67

I run Mud 2 clinchers.
I usually start with around 30psi for the warm up laps and adjust the pressure from there up or down depending on perceived grip I get in the conditions.

I have run them as low as 25psi (I’m 67kg) but then I’m a fair bit slower than the front guys , usually around mid field, so tend to hit any roots etc with less force/speed so lower risk of pinch flats.

I have felt them ‘bottom out’ on the odd occasion and then waited for the hiss, but have never pinch flatted (yet). That makes me wonder how much the risk is due to inner tube strength and/or wheel rim configuration as opposed to out and out tyre pressure.