Speedplay Zero - How to engage/disengage easily?

Wacky Racer

No doubt this has been covered on here before, if so can someone please point me to a decent link.

I've just fitted Speedplay Zero's, and at present there is no way I could risk going out with them. Incredibly difficult to engage, I have to literally stand on the pedal and twist very hard. Then to disengage they are just as bad.

I have reduced the float to minimal so that I need less heel twist to disengage. I have put some dry lube on the clip part of the pedal and the engagement part of the cleat. I have tried (at a standstill) engaging and disengaging around 20/30 times, but they are still horrendous. I reckon I'd kill myself on the road.

I know that they are notoriously stiff when new, and I know that light riders find then tough to start with. But I'm 12.5 stone, and a pretty strong guy, and these are terrible.

Any tips would be most welcome. Thanks.

lef

Firstly new speedplay cleats are stiff, surprisingly so if you are new to them. They will loosen pretty quickly though and even just sitting on the bike for a while repeatedly clipping in and out may help. The other issue though may be you have tightened the screws too tight. Did you follow the guidelines for tightening the screws? If they are overtightened they will increase the resistance of the spring.

shamrock134

I found the same when I first got the Zeros. I couldn't engage them at all and had to pedal along with my left foot disengaged whilst swearing at myself for buying overpriced, useless pedals.

I'm light and thought it was because I couldn't put enough force down, but there is a knack to it which comes through practice. Sort of a downward push with a little bit of outward heel twist.

I also think lubing the cleats/pedals, loosening the screws and re-positioning the cleat to ensure it's as flat as possible helped.

Wacky Racer

lef wrote:

Firstly new speedplay cleats are stiff, surprisingly so if you are new to them. They will loosen pretty quickly though and even just sitting on the bike for a while repeatedly clipping in and out may help. The other issue though may be you have tightened the screws too tight. Did you follow the guidelines for tightening the screws? If they are overtightened they will increase the resistance of the spring.

I'm fairly sure I have screwed them in about right. I don't have a torque screwdriver at home. But, I tightened the screws until they bumped over the first resistance, then added one quarter turn. I am able to move the springs with my fingers, although they are very tight to push.

To start with I couldn't engage at all, and only after really forcing my foot down very hard, actually standing full weight with the pedal at 6 O'clock with a slight twisting action, they finally clipped home with a very loud clunk. I have practiced alot now and they are simply extremely stiff and still require a twisting action to engage. Disengaging is also quite unnerving, it takes a tremendous effort, twisting my heel outwards, to release, and I would be concerned to use them on the road at the moment.

majormantra

There's a knack. See my reply here: http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum ... 3&t=106679

thebadgerboy1982

I had the same problem.
I solved it by taking the mech appart a gently pull the metal half moon part at either end with some pliers. Do it gently around 10 times and you will notice a massive difference!

lef

Wacky Racer wrote:

lef wrote:

Firstly new speedplay cleats are stiff, surprisingly so if you are new to them. They will loosen pretty quickly though and even just sitting on the bike for a while repeatedly clipping in and out may help. The other issue though may be you have tightened the screws too tight. Did you follow the guidelines for tightening the screws? If they are overtightened they will increase the resistance of the spring.

I'm fairly sure I have screwed them in about right. I don't have a torque screwdriver at home. But, I tightened the screws until they bumped over the first resistance, then added one quarter turn. I am able to move the springs with my fingers, although they are very tight to push.

To start with I couldn't engage at all, and only after really forcing my foot down very hard, actually standing full weight with the pedal at 6 O'clock with a slight twisting action, they finally clipped home with a very loud clunk. I have practiced alot now and they are simply extremely stiff and still require a twisting action to engage. Disengaging is also quite unnerving, it takes a tremendous effort, twisting my heel outwards, to release, and I would be concerned to use them on the road at the moment.

Mine were just the same. Stick with them, they will loosen in a couple of days and you won't look back. If you have a turbo do a ride in them, it might help loosen them.

Cleat Eastwood

is there any reason they specify using a ptfe lube rather than just any old lube?

majormantra

Cleat Eastwood wrote:

is there any reason they specify using a ptfe lube rather than just any old lube?

Probably because anything gunky increases the risk of fouling the cleats. To be honest I hardly ever lube mine, I'm too lazy. I do it if they start to squeak.

baldwin471

This thread popped up at the right time. Just got back in from my first 100km ride (Yay me!) and had a torrid time with the cleats. Normally they are fine but today my left pedal just refused to engage most of the time. Really frustrating but i think they got gunky (My gps route took me through a farm unknowingly and i had to trudge my way through water and mud like a foot deep). So can't really blame the pedals/cleats, but my fellow cyclist who accompanied me went through the same mud and water with his (my old) shimano r540's and they worked perfectly. Still love my zero's through.

Wacky Racer

Cheers for all the helpful replies. I think I am just resigned to the fact that they are going to be a bitch to engage and release until they have worn in. I might just use them for shorter rides until they ease off, and revert back to my old Keo's for longer rides especially when I know there will be plenty of stop starts.

majormantra

Did you read my post above? If you have the technique it's really not a problem, and I don't think break-in as big a factor as people are making out.

baldwin471

MajorMantra wrote:

Did you read my post above? If you have the technique it's really not a problem, and I don't think break-in as big a factor as people are making out.

That only works when they are nice and clean and its dry. When it's pissing it down and mud is getting everywhere it's hard to push down and twist without your foot slipping off the pedal.

majormantra

It's not a twist, it's a mashing motion. Speedplays are crap at handling mud though.

sungod

^^^this

do *not* twist to clip in

foot should be in-line and level, then just stomp, as long as you've got the cleat roughly lined up it'll be guided down and engage

you'll have problems clipping in if you are twisting your foot or holding it at an angle

only twist to release

kayo74

The more you use the better they become so stick at them you won't look back!!

Oxo

Just to reiterate what the guys have said above, stick with them, they are worth the effort. I fitted them about 3 months ago (long term Look Delta user) and felt exactly the same as you for the first few weeks. Slowly but surely they've become easier to engage and I've got to the point where I don't even think about it now. As a bonus, all my previous knee problems have also gone now, so I'm so glad I persisted with them. I know it sounds daft, but what helped me was to imagine I had a giant pop-fastener on my shoe and to sort of "rock" the thing in side-to-side if it didn't fire in first go.

Good luck!

Ox

Wacky Racer

MajorMantra wrote:

Did you read my post above? If you have the technique it's really not a problem, and I don't think break-in as big a factor as people are making out.

I think I have the technique about right, and yes your post was helpful, so thanks for that.

However, they are significantly different to what I am used to, so I know it will take a while for me to get used to them. The Exustars I have been using for the last year were my first clip-in's, and I guess I have just gotten used to them and their idiosyncrasies. I will definitely be keeping the Speedplays, but will use them for the right rides while I wear them in and gradually move across to them full time.

sarbabidya

I just moved to a pair of Speedplay Zero chromoly. I read all the posts and saw videos about the issue with the cleat engagement. I did not face this problem. This is what I did. The answer really is a healthy dose of Teflon lube. I put a good dose of Teflon lube between the cleat plate and the face plate that screws it in, before I fixed them. I did not screw in too tight. Also before the first ride I put a lot of of Teflon lube on the pedal cleating surface itself the night before and allowed it to settle in. Next morning, the ride was a breeze, I could engage cleats right from the word go and un-cleat easily too. The float screws have no function here compared to Shimano Spd'S which I moved from. Keep just a tiny little play to reduce stress on the screws, that's what I did. A few days of riding now I never had a problem with engaging and disengaging. Also remember to buy and keep a pair of Speedplay Coffee Shop cleat covers. Put them on whenever you have to walk it. The pedals, obviously, by design, has a lot of sensitivity to dirt, sand etc. If you love the performance advantage of the Zero avoid dirtying it up. If you have a day of ride on a real dirt, mud terrain, put on a different set of pedals and cleats that day . Speedplay Zero's are just not made for that, no point cribbing.

First.Aspect

I use the X-series, so I can't comment with any real authority.... but if you have adjusted them to minimum float, are you also minimizing the angle across which the will engage?

ddraver

Yep, they will wear a bit and be fine but it takes a ride or so. The technique is also a bit different, there is no "toe in" like you might be used to

I ve gone back to Look Keo's last weekend though (on a trial run but it looks good). I'm fed up with the constant hassle and insane expense I got from speedplay.

stevewj

just be careful if you stop and put your foot in mud - any sand/grit/mud in the cleat can make it VERY hard to unclip. I always immediately unclip my left shoe after putting it to the ground just to check its ok. If it isn't I wash it in a puddle/canal/ drink. Also the new open sided café covers are superb as they stay on the cleat even when riding and avoid any probs walking except on very muddy areas. Having said all this, I have ridden with SPDs, Look and Crank Bros systems but Speedplay are the only ones that allow me to ride without knee pain.

mrb123

As said above, if you fit the cleats with some Keep on Kovers then issues with walking about in them are largely resolved, though it's obviously best to avoid any really muddy ground if you can help it.

A wipe round the inside of the cleat with a bit of kitchen paper and an occasional dribble of lube into them keeps them working nicely.

pilot_pete

Ive been using Zeros for several years. They are tighter when new, but it isn't an issue really. Once you get used to it they are so much easier to clip into than a Look Keo single sided pedal like I started on! Simply put the cleat over the lollipop and push down vertically. You may find it easier if the pedal is at the bottom of the pedal stroke when you do this, but after practice it becomes easy in any position.

I find I seem to clip in much quicker than any of my ride buddies who don't use Speedplays, as we pull away from lights, junctions etc. They really are that easy to use once you get used to them.

As others have said, they can clog easily with mud and crap, so a little care with where you put your foot down is advisable, but I use them all year round with titanium on my best bike and stainless steel on my wont bike. Two sets of shoes, one new for summer and my old pair reserved for winter use under winter neoprene booties. I do get a few problems with them clogging in the winter, but simply tapping the shoe against the pedal tends to shift most crap out before engaging. Anything worse will need scraping out with a twig or something, but this is extremely rare. A quick brush with soapy water and a kitchen washing up (stiff) brush ( don't tell the missus!) once home and a re-lube gets them working fine again.

The beauty I have found is winding the screws in to give minimal float which makes them feel very secure and quick to release when needed. The ground clearance is fantastic and I have to remember when coaching with flat pedals fitted to not lean over anywhere near as much!

The pedals do require more maintenance than any other systems (a scrub down every so often and filling with clean grease) but I have not needed to replace bearings in any of my sets (3 thus far). I have worn the bow ties down on two pairs and bought some replacements off eBay which weren't quite as good as original Speedplay parts and it is a pain that Speedplay won't sell parts and insist you send them back to them to rebuild. The cost is ridiculous as you can buy a new pair of stainless pedals for a few quid more...

I have a set of coffee shop covers but must admit that I never bother using them any more. Being steel, the bottom of the cleats can be a bit slippy, so you have to be careful, but I don't buy them for walking in. They do however last me over a year and I change them well before they are worn out. In my experience they last as long as three sets of Keo cleats, so the price works out about the same.

I have just 'upgraded' a set of chromoly to titanium using aftermarket French spindles so will see how they go...

PP