Help! Old Style Bottom Brackets

dg74
dg74 Posts: 656
edited October 2012 in The workshop
Hello!

Got a bit of a problem that you all may be able to guide me with.

Got a bike coming in for a bottom bracket overhaul. It's an old style BB (bike is 12 years old so guessing it will be ball bearing, grease, etc). I've not done one of these in 20 years since my old BMX days.

Are there any tutorials/videos that can jog my memory on stripping this type of BB down and cleaning/replacing bits? I'm completely flummoxed at the moment by this.

Cheers

Darren

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    read parktools.

    12 years is not old.

    as to which BB it is it could be anything.

    sheldon covers the oddball ones.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • dg74
    dg74 Posts: 656
    nicklouse wrote:
    read parktools.

    12 years is not old.

    as to which BB it is it could be anything.

    sheldon covers the oddball ones.

    Cheers for that.

    Agree that 12 years is not 'old' but the customer ensures me that the bottom bracket is 'old style' :D

    I couldn't give an idea on what BB it is without looking at it, I've a feeling I'm going to be on here with pictures.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Cup and cone square taper possibly, (like I have on my 1997 Gary Fisher) service pretty much the same as cup and cone wheel bearings really, just apply common sense!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • dg74
    dg74 Posts: 656
    Cup and cone square taper possibly, (like I have on my 1997 Gary Fisher) service pretty much the same as cup and cone wheel bearings really, just apply common sense!

    Oh well... :D
  • dg74
    dg74 Posts: 656
    Right first diagnosis which I'm going to run by you lovely people.

    Got bike last night (original problem was BB allegedly). Initial inspection reveals no play in BB at all. No obvious signs of anything untoward but customer is saying that when she pedals up hill there is a loud 'clicking' coming from the BB area. So to save me any time I'll check the area around it first for loose fittings, clean it down and if it still happens, strip it back and go from there.
  • Check left crank to make sure its not worn/ loose - usual suspect for loud clicks under load.

    failing that possibbly its the peddles.

    failing that it could be any number of things - cassette loose is another common one that sounds/feels like a clunk coming through the BB.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    pedals.rings, saddle,seat post. gear shifters and brake levers touching. bars, stem etc etc etc... cracked frame.....

    but again read Parktools about drive train noises.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • dg74
    dg74 Posts: 656
    God I love this forum at times. Great, helpful posters who I'd happily buy a pint.

    Cheers.
  • dg74
    dg74 Posts: 656
    Well I need to buy a Parktools CCW5C tool as my new bottom bracket/crank extractor is slightly too large for the old style BB/Cranks on the Ridgeback.

    And yes, it's defo the BB.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    but that is just a 14mm socket. and allen key.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • dg74
    dg74 Posts: 656
    nicklouse wrote:
    but that is just a 14mm socket. and allen key.

    FAncy a job?

    Edit: Actually the nut is easy to get off, it's the actual crank tool that I need.
  • dg74
    dg74 Posts: 656
    Well to round the story off - I finally got into the job today.

    After loads of messing about I noticed that my crank extractor tool has a removable head that fits the square taper BB. So off it came. Was mightily happy to see a shimano square taper BB with sealed bearing cartridge (and not have to contend with loose ball bearing falling about the place).

    Once everything cleaned up, BB re-greased and the BB housing cleaned and greased (seems someone last used copper slip in there and lots of it), it went back together easily and all the creaking/knocking was gone.

    Hopefully the customer will be happy - the whole thing runs sweet as now, really happy with the outcome.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Copperslip is the right stuff for a BB thread, grease isn't.........

    The plug on your crank extractor (not BB tool) is so it will fit ISIS cranks (hollow axle) as well.

    I'm worried your charging for this and then posting here to sort basic issues out really! And you couldn't afford Nick.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • dg74
    dg74 Posts: 656
    Copperslip is the right stuff for a BB thread, grease isn't.........

    The plug on your crank extractor (not BB tool) is so it will fit ISIS cranks (hollow axle) as well.

    I'm worried your charging for this and then posting here to sort basic issues out really! And you couldn't afford Nick.

    Thanks for your input. However worthless.

    Chuckling at your comment that I "couldn't afford Nick". Have I touched a nerve with you, sweetheart?
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    This page helped me out when I was stuck with a BB at the weekend:
    http://www.cycle-systems-academy.co.uk/ ... m-brackets

    @Thebeginner: I think I may have used copper (Carlube) last time I changed my BB (couple of years back) but now think this may not have been a good move seeing how it was totally seized and that Cu tends to eat Al in water due to galvanic corrosion.

    Anyway, three pretty bad floods in one year and a bunch of us need to change our BBs.

    Tempted to stuff the faces of the BB with vaseline to keep the water out next time it floods.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • dg74
    dg74 Posts: 656
    This page helped me out when I was stuck with a BB at the weekend:
    http://www.cycle-systems-academy.co.uk/ ... m-brackets

    @Thebeginner: I think I may have used copper (Carlube) last time I changed my BB (couple of years back) but now think this may not have been a good move seeing how it was totally seized and that Cu tends to eat Al in water due to galvanic corrosion.

    Anyway, three pretty bad floods in one year and a bunch of us need to change our BBs.

    Tempted to stuff the faces of the BB with vaseline to keep the water out next time it floods.

    Cheers, brother. See, this is a good example of helpful. Not some assassination because someone has the hump over what may or may not be correct in their eyes and because someone 'can't afford' something/one.

    No offence TheBeginner but your post was crap and completely unhelpful. Every business begins somewhere & lessons are learnt.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    My post was correcting your errors....never had an issue with copperslip in alloy.

    Seriously coming here asking for advice on such a basic job while charging someone sounds really poor, can't you see that?

    Initialised, the problem is frames are hollow, water will always get in somewhere, through one of the holes, just need to make sure it drains as well! I stand my commuter on its back wheel about once a week to drain out accumulated water (through the drain holes in the rear of the chain stays, in fact I'm thinking of drilling a drain hole in the BB shell (like my MTB already has from production) as that is the lowest point.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • dg74
    dg74 Posts: 656
    My post was correcting your errors....never had an issue with copperslip in alloy.

    Seriously coming here asking for advice on such a basic job while charging someone sounds really poor, can't you see that?

    Initialised, the problem is frames are hollow, water will always get in somewhere, through one of the holes, just need to make sure it drains as well! I stand my commuter on its back wheel about once a week to drain out accumulated water (through the drain holes in the rear of the chain stays, in fact I'm thinking of drilling a drain hole in the BB shell (like my MTB already has from production) as that is the lowest point.

    I needed advice on a specific thing. Instead of going ahead and making a mess of it I sought guidance. No crime in that but I take your point. Some good advice though regarding standing bike up etc. Thank you.

    Regardless, sorry if I caused any offence, I'll desist from posting here in future.

    Cheers