Saddle levelling?.
kayo74
Posts: 299
Just brought a new saddle and wondering what kind of level you guys put your's at??. Seen different reviews of tilted back, tilted forwarded, or level or is it trial and error for your own comfort?:
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personally i have mine tilted forward abit, find when its level or back its hurts my nuts0
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Always had the saddle dead level up until i bought a new gen SLR flow for a bike, if the saddle is set level it feels like i'm sliding off the saddle and placing my weight on the bars, i've pointed the front up which has cured the problem and has left the saddle comfy but it looks shite.
For sale, one as new Selle Italia slr flow, i think that i'm going to try a Regal-e for a change.0 -
What do you mean by level? Some saddles are perfeclty flat when viewed from the side, some have a flat nose section and then a curved 'tail', some have a pronounced curve over the entire saddle. Measurement should be done with a spirit level from nose to tail (highest point anyway).
My 2 cents worth after years of experimentation:
With a flat saddle start with it level and then adjust tilt to suit comfort, I think most people prefer a flat saddle to be level.
With a saddle with flat nose set-up so that the saddle is level from nose to tail (this means that the nose will be pointing slightly high) as counterintuitive as this sounds these saddles are normally designed to place you in the slight pocket between nose and tail, the gradual rise is designed to prevent you sliding forward: i believe that selle italia flite/slr are examples of this ( in fact they have a flattish tail to sit on so that the perineum sits above the dip.... Tilting it down (ie so the nose is level0 often results in sliding forward on the nose and placing weight on the hands...sore balls, sore neck.
With the third type these saddles are again designed to be mounted flat from nose to tail, with the exception of saddles with a really high tail like the selle san marco concord. With this style the tail should be slightly higher than nose.
This is a guide, often riders have their saddles mounted slightly nose down or tail down to suit their flexibiltity and riding style - always start flat and adjust from there.
Be aware that some saddles have a dip in the centre of the tail (ie prologo scratch) which makes finding the tail height a bit more problematic.0 -
I had a recent bike fit with Adrian Timmis at Cadence Cycles. At the time I'd found that I could only get my saddle comfy by having it nose down. Adrian explained that this was an indicator of having the saddle too high. In his opinion the saddle should always be level on a well fitted bike.
Following the bike fit, which involved lowering the saddle and moving it back, I now have a level and very comfy saddle.0 -
MartinB2444 wrote:Adrian explained that this was an indicator of having the saddle too high. In his opinion the saddle should always be level on a well fitted bike.
Having to have the saddle pointed up or down is a clear indication that the position on the bike is incorrect, I agree with Adrian, a saddle should be level, tipping it down (or up) just moves fit and position issues from one place to another.0 -
The right saddle at the right height should be flat.
It's not all that easy to work out what flat means on some saddles though - Arione, very easy. Others will have a bit of a dip to the middle or rise at the back.0 -
Total agreement with every saddle should be level but......Like i said earlier that new SLR flow does not sit level, all of my saddles are the same height etc and i've even got a carbonio flow(similar) on one bike that is level but that saddle just forces you forward when level. It feels like you're sliding down the saddle and you have to push on to your bars to stop you falling off the end of it, slightly over the top explaination but does give you an odd feeling until you lift the front.0
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I'm not a slave to the Velominati Rules but I think this one has some merit.
"Rule #48// Keep your saddle level.
The seating area of a saddle is to be visually level, with the base measurement made using a spirit level. Based on subtleties of saddle design and requirements of comfort, the saddle may then be pitched slightly forward or backward to reach a position that offers stability, power, and comfort. If the tilt of the saddle exceeds two degrees, you need to go get one of those saddles with springs and a thick gel pad because you are obviously a big pussy."0 -
Place spirit level on smooth floor check where bubble rests.
Set up bike and saddle with the same for and aft bubble rest point on spirit level bearing in mind the for and aft position of the saddle relative to bottom bracket. This should result in a position that when pedaling and you remove your hands from the bars there is no tendency for you body to go up or forward. (This is best tried on a turbo or similar).
Go for a ride for a couple of hrs then note how it felt.
Repeat above tilting the saddle a few degrees down then try out again then repeat for a few degrees up then make you choice.
Bear in mind No two bums/wedding tackle are the same or saddles for that matter, it's what works for you that matters. :shock: although I have found the saddles with the cut out center section better but that's just me :!:0 -
Ron Stuart wrote:Place spirit level on smooth floor check where bubble rests.
Set up bike and saddle with the same for and aft bubble rest point on spirit level bearing in mind the for and aft position of the saddle relative to bottom bracket. This should result in a position that when pedaling and you remove your hands from the bars there is no tendency for you body to go up or forward. (This is best tried on a turbo or similar).
Go for a ride for a couple of hrs then note how it felt.
Repeat above tilting the saddle a few degrees down then try out again then repeat for a few degrees up then make you choice.
Bear in mind No two bums/wedding tackle are the same or saddles for that matter, it's what works for you that matters. :shock: although I have found the saddles with the cut out center section better but that's just me :!:
Not best tried on a turbo unless you can get the bike level...0 -
ALIHISGREAT wrote:
Not best tried on a turbo unless you can get the bike level...
I maybe didn't make it clear enough, regards the 'Turbo' this is only employed to check the balance of rider for and aft not the tilt, the saddle regards bottom relationship is very important.
Stand perfectly upright with your hands by your sides then crouch so your knees bend you will find your upper torso will move forward and your seat will move aft, but your feet are in the same place and you are balanced.
Cycling requires power to be applied through the legs and there is an optimum leg extension for this but you still require balance so the weight is comfortably shared for and aft in the form of reach and saddle location.
Saddle tilt is a refinement but these principles come first.
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