Questions for a Expert/Experienced/Pro biker

wellbeloved747

I am About to start a fully carbon bike project to be finished by next March/April to use as my new bike for next year. Hopefully it will be less than 7kg. However i have a few questions about which parts to buy they are as follows.

1. Should i get carbon bars that have an integrated stem or carbon bars and carbon stem. Although the integrated bars are lighter i wont be able to adjust the angle so which would be best?

2. I am hopefully getting 88mm carbon clincher rims but should i get the tubular ones. haven't had them before and hot all sure what they are. I believe they are a thick inner tube with a tyre surface, they are lighter than a tyre and tube however they take more space in the saddle bag and they cannot be patched. is this right?

3. what parts do i need to put forks into a frame. top cap, bolt, star nut,spacers, bottom seal?, and top seal? can someone explain how they work?

4. what is carbon paste and will i need it of so where will i put it?

5. I presume i will need carbon brake pads i guess that is because rubber is to harsh on carbon. Im guessing carbon pads are cork based? am i right?

6. the outers on my frame need to be threaded through the frame. how do i do this??


All replies would be greatly appreciated

Grill

1. No. Integrated bars are for stiffness, not weight savings. Not only are they not lighter, if you're not absolutely certain about stem length+angle as well as bar shape, drop, reach, and width then you've wasted money.

2. You're not seriously going to try and use 88mm carbons on a daily basis, are you? Crosswinds anyone... On the tubs vs. clincher argument it's different strokes for different folks. I'd recommend using the search as it's been discussed many times.

3. Buy a frameset, it will have everything you need. No point messing about matching fork to frame and with framesets all the R&D has been done specifically for said combination.

4. Carbon paste allows carbon parts to bond together without slip or over-torquing. It should be applied where there is carbon i.e. seatpost, stem+bars (if carbon), etc.

5. You will need carbon rim specific pads, but they're not all cork. Swiss Stop Yellows are rubber...

6. Not sure what you're asking... Is this regarding internal cable routing?

wellbeloved747

bars now make sense.
not a daily basis bike just a race bike.
carbon paste is what i thought it was

thanks for your help

estampida

re pads

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/index.php?cPath=22_33

Monty Dog

My 2p's worth:

Many integrated bars and stem are heavier than some separate combos. As many who race (crash) will attest, carbon bars don't like coming into contact with tarmac whereas you can often still ride with a bent alloy bar. Only ride what you can afford to crash. Integrated bars only work if you know your exact set-up.

88mm rims and tubular tyres aren't really suitable for general riding - by the sounds of your comments I'd suggest you start with something more user-friendly.

hstiles

I wouldn't use carbon bars or stem - not if bike is for racing. If you are after all carbon, go for seperate bars and stem - more options.

I wouldn't bother with tubs. Unless you have a support crew on hand with replacement wheels, the advantages our outweighed by the hassle. A set of quality clinchers will be more than adequate.

ThatBikeGuy

I think the best investment you could make for starters is a bike maintenance book so you have an idea of what you're doing.
Also don't bother with 88s, they're too deep in most cases and aren't really necessary unless you plan on TT'ing.

Richy.B

HI
i know you said you wanted a all carbon bike,( including handle bars) just be weary of carbon bars, i had a pair of zipp's until a month ago when they snapped suddenly whilst i was going down hill at speed, ( and so i broke a few bones in my hand, and i came of fairly luckily) and actually i have just bought some bontrager alloy bars which are only 2g heavier than the zipps. So really in my oppinion don't get your heart set on carbon bars.

cougie

Carbon bars and stems can be heavier than alloy and lots more expensive.
The one pieces are a stupid idea as you don't know what suits you.
Tubs are expensive and you need to glue them on. Do you trust yourself to do this ?
88mm depth would be a bitch in the wind.
Carbon braking isn't great in the wet.

It's not going to be all carbon anyway so I'd give that idea up and buy a better bike that suits you.

greasedscotsman

Grill wrote:

1. No. Integrated bars are for stiffness, not weight savings. Not only are they not lighter, if you're not absolutely certain about stem length+angle as well as bar shape, drop, reach, and width then you've wasted money.

So why not make an integrated bar and stem that's just as stiff as a normal setup, surely it will be lighter?

cougie

I think its more about the bling ?

And prob harder to do an integrated alloy bar and stem combo anyway ?

TBH - I've never thought 'ooh i'd be faster if it wasnt for this wibbly wobbly handlebar I'm using' - and even most pros don't use carbon bars or integrated sets - so they must feel the same ?

Grill

greasedscotsman wrote:

Grill wrote:

1. No. Integrated bars are for stiffness, not weight savings. Not only are they not lighter, if you're not absolutely certain about stem length+angle as well as bar shape, drop, reach, and width then you've wasted money.

So why not make an integrated bar and stem that's just as stiff as a normal setup, surely it will be lighter?

No as to get the torsional stiffness out of carbon you need to use more layers.

greasedscotsman

Grill wrote:

greasedscotsman wrote:

Grill wrote:

1. No. Integrated bars are for stiffness, not weight savings. Not only are they not lighter, if you're not absolutely certain about stem length+angle as well as bar shape, drop, reach, and width then you've wasted money.

So why not make an integrated bar and stem that's just as stiff as a normal setup, surely it will be lighter?

No as to get the torsional stiffness out of carbon you need to use more layers.

Who said anything about carbon? If it was made from steel or alloy, can you not either make it lighter or stronger/stiffer by doing without the clamp?

giropaul

You asked for an "expert/experienced" response, and I hope that I'm not being self-engrandising by responding, but I have been around a long time, raced a lot and also worked a lot with pro teams.

My observations, for what they're worth. You may not like/agree with them, but you did ask.

a) pros use what they're given (and often grumble about it as well!)
b)I'm guessing from the questions that you're fairly new to all this - if not I apologise. You said that you want the bike for racing. In terms of racing you will be a 4th Cat - that's where everyone starts. 4th Cats races tend to be closed circuits in the main, lots of braking and jumping out of corners. Aero wheels won't contribute anything, some light wheels (e.g. Campag Neutrons etc) will. There's usually little climbing either, so a very light bike isn't going to be of much advantage either.
c) 4th Cats crash - a lot. I'd personally be using a good solid not too blingy or expensive bike that I wouldn't mind too much if I had to write it off. I'd spend the rest of my dosh on some spare pairs of wheels as you usually get laps out in these events.

lawrences

If you're heart is set on 88mm rims (fucks knows why it would be if you want a bike under 7kg, but if it is!) then get tubs and only race them, get some cheaper clinchers for training.

simon_masterson

With the greatest of respect, the main thought that comes to mind is 'if you have to ask, you probably don't need it!'

I'm not trying to be disparaging or patronising, but if nothing else Mark Cavendish has a car behind him that will give him another bike/wheel; I'm assuming you don't!

mamba80

I dont believe this is a serious question but if im wrong... then spend some time learning some basic bike mtce first, what you r asking would take several chapters in a manual and you ll need a decnt tool set as well.

google Parktools, if you want to start some where.
and go to weightweenies for advice on Tubs v clinchers and how/why.