new handlebars - how long is too long ?

elredso

looking to replace the stock 680mm bars on my jekyll, as they feel soooo short compared to my old monkey bars.

i read the article on BR about longer the better - but ideally I dont want the expense of changing the stem as well, and the article is saying i should shorten it as i step up the length of bars. the current spec is below - can anyone recommned maximum length I should go for ? and decent bars too !

Bars: Cannondale C3 riser, 680x20mm, 6061 alloy
Stem: Cannondale C4, 1.5", 31.8, 5 deg.

cooldad

One thing you missed is the stem length.

But 'the longer the better' is BS. The right length is right.

felix.london

Impossible to say. Everyone will be comfortable with different setups. Personally on my go to bike - I went from a 680mm Easton EA50 Monkey Bar to a 711mm Easton Alu Haven and that seems like the sweet spot for me. So much so that I bought another Easton Haven as they are/were going for half price.

I run a 720mm Bonty Big Earl on my DH bike (guess that's pretty narrow by todays standards) and again I find it spot on. Plenty of balance when going flat out but not too big to hinder steering when things get technical

.blitz

elredso wrote:

i read the article on BR about longer the better - but ideally I dont want the expense of changing the stem as well

The reasoning behind this is that wider bars will make you lean forward more so they are usually combined with a shorter stem to restore your riding position. If you fit wider bars to your existing stem it will simply make you lean forward more and make your steering feel rather odd.

There are a few combos that work well enough for trail riding
680 bar + 90mm stem
720 + 70
740 + 50 (mbr standard )

Thing to bear in mind is that 680->740 is 60mm or 2.3" i.e just over an inch either side so it's not a huge difference

inexpensive bars and stems on Superstar not bad quality either

supersonic

Can always start big and cut down.

The Northern Monkey

Something I wrote ages ago...

The Northern Monkey wrote:

bigbenj_08 wrote:

schweiz
Huge generalization here.. but..

Short stem = quicker steering but can be twitchy, better for decending.
Long stem = slower steering but more stable, better for climbing.

Thin bars = quicker steering but more twitchy, easier climbing + less control on descents.
Wide bars = slower steering but more stable, harder cliimbing + more control on descents.

So I've opted for a short stem with wide bars...
The twitchyness of the short stem is counteracted by the stability of the wider bar. Giving better decending at the expense of harder climbing.

Long stem + thin bars..
Slower but stable steering is counteracted by the quicker steering of thin bars.
Giving more economical climbing at the expense of less controll descending.

Short Stem + Thin Bars...
Very twitchy.

Long Stem Wide Bars...
Super slow steering.

So...
For XC the longer stem/thin bars is beneficial because it helps with climbing.
DH/FR/AM a shorter stem + wide bars offer downhill stability and better riding position.


Thats all theory btw... I've just written is from what I believe the differences are between bar/stem combos.

nicklouse

what is the narrowest part of your local trails?

elredso

i got some kore ones from chain reaction for £20 at 740, figure can cut them down to 710 if i dont like them being so wide - but i couldnt add on to a shorter pair (plus being significantly reduced helped too)

in terms of width the only thing i am aware of are the two trees at cannock in the first section, that you have to slalom through as they are tight together and on a turn too - might clout them on that i suppose !

nicklouse

elredso wrote:

i got some kore ones from chain reaction for £20 at 740, figure can cut them down to 710 if i dont like them being so wide - but i couldnt add on to a shorter pair (plus being significantly reduced helped too)

in terms of width the only thing i am aware of are the two trees at cannock in the first section, that you have to slalom through as they are tight together and on a turn too - might clout them on that i suppose !

on the Monkey trail?

seen quite a few broken bars where people have missjuged things.

.blitz

elredso wrote:

in terms of width the only thing i am aware of are the two trees at cannock in the first section, that you have to slalom through as they are tight together and on a turn too - might clout them on that i suppose !

You won't be the first - or the last

I have 790s on one bike and they are a liability in places.

FWIW 740 is fine around Cannock

anj132

cooldad wrote:

But 'the longer the better' is BS. The right length is right.

This is what my wife tells me.

cooldad

She's just being nice.

elredso

looks like i might be a bit stuck - apparently cannondales 1.5" is different to other 1.5" stem - and they dont seem to produce a 50mm stem - shortest I can find is 60mm and they are sold out !

supersonic

What fork do you have?

elredso

its a sektor tk (rockshox) - does the odd 1.5" only refer to the lefty forks ?

supersonic

Indeed it does! So any 1.5!

stubs

I tried 740mm bars and ended up hanging over the bars with the stem cap in my nuts when I tried to ride between 2 trees on one of my regular rides. By a process of elimination I have found the two trees are about 701mm apart my bars are now 700mm wide across the grip end caps. I would like wider bars but I like riding that particular route too much so its 700mm bars or a chainsaw.

elredso

Sweet thanks supersonic-not a cheap upgrade then as got to get a new Stem too now!

raldat

Wow, I thought my 700mm bars were wide. Well they were when I went from 600mm bars.

The Northern Monkey

bars on my RL are 685mm

bars on my Canyon are 750mm

dusk

It depends on the bike and terrain you'll be riding on as well. I have 700mm bars on my ex8 which feel great but I have 780mm on my dh bike which also feel really good.

widge34

I ride with 760mm Nukeproof bars on a 50mm Renthal stem. Love the set up.

lawman

750's are fine round cannock, I run 750mm easton havocs on both bikes and find them spot on for me, anything narrower feels weird now!

kammybear

elredso wrote:

in terms of width the only thing i am aware of are the two trees at cannock in the first section, that you have to slalom through as they are tight together and on a turn too - might clout them on that i suppose !

I thought I was an utter n00b not being able to get past that bit! I hate those two trees!

Chunkers1980

Just measured mine. 625mm

supersonic

Quick look at mine:

580, 600, 635, 635, 635, 660, 660, 685, 685. 635 being my favourite for XC/trail riding.

The Rookie

Went up to a 660mm on one bike, that felt too wide, so now stop at about 640mm, my retro is still on 580's as wider looks all wrong!

allthegearnoidea

i measured the distance between hands when sat relaxed and comfy, went for bars of a simialr size, thankfully on-one had some for a tenner in on of the mad sales so wasnt an expensive experiment! sat at 710 for a fair while (came from 635mm), them saw some 740mm funn bars in crc's sale, picked them up cheap to see how i got on with them and feels spot on, but then ive got 48" chest and on the narrow bars felt like i was squashing my ribs all the time!! a few of the guys i ride with are on 760,777,780's one looks a little odd as he's tall but average build the other two guys are tall (6ft2+) and have bigger upper bodies, they do have a few issues with trees mind!! narrow ST you can hear them pingign off the branches! :-D