Hope/stans wheel set + added superstar Trizoid question

frankspencer1979

I'm considering a wheel upgrade and am thinking along the lines of the above set from the likes of CRC/Wiggle/Merlin etc'. I'm not a fatty or into big jumps and that so should be strong enough and lighter than my current set. Also want something worthy of being moved onto a new frame next year.

I've gotten myself confused now though as they are touted as tubeless rims. Can I just run them with tubes from standard as I can't be @rsed with the extra hassle at the moment or am I better off with an alternative? Does this type of build come ready to go onto the bike (aside from fitting discs and cassette?)

Also, at the same time, is it worth upgrading disc rotors from 160mm to 180mm? Does this increase stopping power or does it just help with heat dissipation?

Thanks for any advice

supersonic

They can be run with tubes or tubeless: for the latter you need the valve kit and rim strip/tape. What is your current wheelset? (and cassette?)

The rotors will increase stopping power for a given lever effort, and dissipate heat better.

70\ʹspenguin

They are not tubeless rims, but are tubeless ready with Stans<insert other> rim tape. Save money and get the superstar deal for £200! Yes you can put tubes in them. You can put tubes in anything really designed to take a regular tyre.

Yes 180 will slow you more if put on the front. Not worth it on the back - stick to 160. The heat thing wont affect you unless you are going DH fast so dont worry about it.

felix.london

As above. If you're after a set of Crest's you'd be crazy not to do the Superstar deal - will save yourself about £100 I should think. Swicth EVO's are very decent hubs too.

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=40&products_id=496

I got a set (of the Flow's) and I don't even have a frame to put them on...yet

frankspencer1979

Supersonic: My current set is WTB speed discs with WTB hubs and SRAM 10 spd cassette (exact model unknown as I'm at work at the moment,) just the standard stuff that came on the bike. I've serviced the hubs a couple of times recently to remove play, the cups are a bit discoloured and slightly rough, especially the front. I tried new bearings with no joy.

70\'sPenguin: That's what I thought about the heat thing, not sure I ride hard enough for that, but if there's a general improvement in stopping power I might give it a go. I just need the relevant spacers for the caliper?

And I would be mental not to go with Superstar wouldn't I!

felix.london

Btw - I had to replace my rear 160mm rotor with a 180mm but I'm riding some very long, steep & gnarly descents so the rear rotor/brake was getting seriously over heated. Huge improvement now with 180 front and back and a switch from Deore to SLX brakes

frankspencer1979

I've been looking at Superstars options, it all gets pretty confusing. There's a wheelset deal offering the Trizoid hubs for £150, but one of the reviews says the rear hub is difficult to service, does anyone know owt about this?

And has anyone got experience with the Tesla hubs?

cat_with_no_tail

It's a very easy hub to service (Trizoid).

Whoever said it was hard to do is a retard.

Superb hubs, can't recommend them enough.

frankspencer1979

Cat With No Tail wrote:

It's a very easy hub to service (Trizoid).

Whoever said it was hard to do is a retard.

Superb hubs, can't recommend them enough.

Ha, well that's that then eh! The reviewer mentioned something about £35 bearings and needing a special tool? Maybe he's a special tool. Think I might go for this set then, xc rims on trizoids, £150.

jairaj

I have the Switch Evo hubs which are a similar design. They are easy to service I've replaced bearings and changed a broken freehub and both were easy. Can take a little time at first but each step is easy enough.

Bearings will eventually wear out and require replacing in any hub. Nothing lasts forever. The ones in my current
Superstar hub have lasted 2 and a bit years before they needed replacing.

Most hubs that use cartridge bearings need a bearing press tool to insert new bearings in. Old ones can just be knocked out, doesn't matter if they get damaged as they are being replaced.

Any hub you buy will require these steps so you can't count it as a disadvantage to this particular hub.

cat_with_no_tail

frankspencer1979 wrote:

Cat With No Tail wrote:

It's a very easy hub to service (Trizoid).

Whoever said it was hard to do is a retard.

Superb hubs, can't recommend them enough.

Ha, well that's that then eh! The reviewer mentioned something about £35 bearings and needing a special tool? Maybe he's a special tool. Think I might go for this set then, xc rims on trizoids, £150.

He is clearly a proper window licker.

You CAN spend £35 on bearings if you wish, but there is certainly no need to do so. They're just standard cartridge bearings, can be picked up for not much money at all. The bearings they provide as standard can be a bit....... meh, but they are a disposable item.

I've never needed any special tools to service mine (apart from a couple of spanners to remove the end caps on the X12 hub). They're some of the easiest hubs I've ever dealt with, next to DT swiss, which require nothing but your own hands.

SuperstarComponents.com

The very first Superleggera hubs (which became trizoid on Mk3) needed a tool to remove the drivering. We do this free of charge in the workshop if needed, but anything hub bought in the last 18 months and onwards needs no special tools at all to work on.

Tesla is our new high end hub. Biggest feature is super expensive SKF bearings as standard, plus a bombproof 60 points of engagement which will stand up to anything you throw at it. Sort of sits in the same product level as the Trizoids but from a different angle.

Any questions just let me know, Neil (Superstar)

cat_with_no_tail

Handy to know, cheers Neil.

frankspencer1979

Cheers superstar man. So this wheelset

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=227

is the older hub that needs the special tool?

paulneenan76

Ordered mine, came quick, fitted today along with new rear derailleur. Look great, sounds great (love the fee hub noise) and most importantly - feel great. You won't be disappointed. Oh , and of course, free Haribo :^)

white91

I'm pretty sure 160mm rotor is enough for most, except the DH and alps.

mrmonkfinger

frankspencer1979 wrote:

Cheers superstar man. So this wheelset

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=227

is the older hub that needs the special tool?

SuperstarComponents.com wrote:

but anything hub bought in the last 18 months and onwards needs no special tools at all to work on.

mrmonkfinger

Cat With No Tail wrote:

You CAN spend £35 on bearings if you wish, but there is certainly no need to do so. They're just standard cartridge bearings, can be picked up for not much money at all. The bearings they provide as standard can be a bit....... meh, but they are a disposable item.

Out of interest, where are you getting bearings from?

cat_with_no_tail

I know I've had some off simplybearings.co.uk before. And one of the shops on ebay, can't remember who though off the top of my head though.

mrmonkfinger

Cat With No Tail wrote:

I know I've had some off simplybearings.co.uk before. And one of the shops on ebay, can't remember who though off the top of my head though.

KaTeC?

Bams

I've had a couple of sets for my Switch hubs off these guys http://stores.ebay.co.uk/ptandbearings. Its about time to change them again as the backs getting a bit wobbly, I think it's been about 18mts since i had the last lot.

jairaj

For lose bearings I just buy from who ever is cheapest with the correct grade.

I'm trying the "own" branded cartridge bearings from simply bearings. I think they were almost 1/3 the price of the SKF ones and had the same amount of marketing buff. Hopefully they're not utter crap. The previous unknown bearings in my Superstar hubs lasted 2 years so if these last half as long I'll still be happy.

stubs

Cleaned and regreased the pawls on my trizoid and it takes about 20 mins to do the job if your like me and clean things cleaner than an operating theatre. Didnt really need to swap the wheel bearings but the brake side bearing didnt feel quite as smooth as I would like so knocked out both bearings and replaced them with some new ones I had in my spares box. Total time to do whole job about an hour and the only special tool was me.

Paul_iow

If you are quick you can get yourself a set of stans arch rims and Evo switch hubs for £165! Just got myself a set

frankspencer1979

frankspencer1979 wrote:

Cheers superstar man. So this wheelset

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=227

is the older hub that needs the special tool?

Well I went for this set in the end, arrived today. Everything seems ok, but I not been for a decent ride yet, that'll be tomorrow. Tyres gone on nice and easy, and everything runs true. I can't see how the hubs come apart for servicing at this stage, there's no place to put cone spanners at least anyway. I'll deal with that issue as and when. They don't half sound weird,not too loud but.... weird!



Went for gold, don't know why. Shiny.

stubs

The clue is the allen key in the drive side of the axle. Shove an allen key in the hole (cant remember sizes) undo and everything comes apart easily. They really are easy to strip down once you have end cap off the freehub just pulls off but be careful or the pawls and springs will disappear to the corners of your work area.

frankspencer1979

Cheers fella, i can see the allen key fitment now!